krispe

Thing is Braineack I can't find the fault! I've rewired to batch at the connector, (not redone the sequential harness), so there is was always a clear wire to injector 2, I tested and retested the circuit. For now I'm gonna stick to batch and get the car back on the road and out of my father-in-laws garage. Maybe in a few weeks or months I'll try sequential again. Just glad its all now running ok.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

it could have been a bad INJ #4 driver/wiring inside the MS...is what I was getting at.

krispe

I think the problem is on the ECU side, but no idea how to really test/check it, (I don't fancy opening up my MS2 as I have no idea what I'm doing). Will stick with batch as I don't think I'm missing out on any power etc over sequential, just maybe a bit lower mpg? When I have more time in the future I may try sequential again, but for now I just need to get the car out of my father-in-laws garage and back on the road.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

you're missing out on: power, mpg, idle quality, and overall smoothness.

krispe

In that case I will try sequential again, just not for a month or so. Just want to get back on the road now

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Please tell me that you reset the power after changing the option.

krispe

Ok....... I'm not 100% sure on this. I did turn the ignition off fully on more than one occasion throughout the evening, but whether it was after the change and before I then went back to batch, I'm not sure? I still don't get why no.4 is firing as I can't find a short?

Next time I go back to work on the car I'll give the above one more go. I did not want to again remove the intake manifold etc to get the injector harness again so cut the wires at the harness plug and block connected back to batch, so I can easily re-connect to sequential as each iinjector still has a seperate signal wire attached. Once I decide to either leave it batch or if I get sequential working I'll again redo the wiring neater. My biggest issue is time. I need to get the car out of my Father in laws garage and don't really want to spend more time trying to get sequential to work.

krispe

So I got to work on the car today. For one more time I swapped the wiring back to sequential, changed MS settings and this time reset power and...... All 4 injectors working I did not know I needed to reboot the ecu after the changes and obviously did not the last time Still not sure why injector 4 was firing though before.

Anyway sequential appears to be working so now started tuning the VVT fuel base map from Reverant which I needed to add quite a bit of fuel to, more than I was expecting??

Now have VVT problem. Went for a test drive and above about 2.5krpm and approx 50% throttle the engine dies, rev counter drops, then restarts and repeats if I go above those settings. Pulled over and disconnected the VVT connector on the solenoid and car runs fine. It seems when the VVT tries to kick in the engine dies??? Its like the VVT tries to start but then I lose the crank signal yet they are not wired together? Is it just some kind of electrical fault and I need to check my wiring again!!!! My VVT solenoid is connected to my 12V on my injector harness and directly to the upgraded MS2 ecu. Should I choose a different +12v source for the VVT solenoid?

Are there any more settings in need to change on my MS2 or on the VVT module???

At the moment I'm wishing I'd stuck with my megasuirted 1.6 engine as it was running great before I decided to do the VVT swap.

Chris

NiklasFalk

iTrader: (1)

What you describe falls in line with a complete ECU reset, like I had when the ground connection on the FIA switch was flawed.
The rev counter gets a constructed signal so it's not directly related to the crank signals.

The VVT OCV is working all the time so it's not idle below a certain Throttle or RPM (unless you have the VVTuner turned off).
I have however managed to burn a trace in my DIYPNP when shorting the OCV connector (by mistake). The VVTuner pulled enough power (fed through the DB15) to do so without damaging itself.
Since you a difference with the OCV disconnected this might be related (a ECU reset can be of many different reasons, low voltage being one, log of the repeatable incident?).

krispe

Hi Niklas

I did a log but realised I left it running for ages by mistake so will create a new log file later today. I can cause the event just by revving the engine. If I rev above say 3.5krpm I get what feels like an electrical cut, rev counter dies for a second, (which gets is signal from the ecu). There is also a clicking noise from behind the dash when it happens?

krispe

Tunerstudio log file: https://app.box.com/s/zna2rhg900atubwkty1x

With the VVT plugged in if I press the throttle say >30% car dies but starts as soon as I lift off. VVT unplugged, car is fine???

Log file shows me revving the car whilst parked.

NiklasFalk

iTrader: (1)

What's "Lost sync reason: 31" ?

It's not an ECU reset at least.

Megasquirt-3 Sync loss and remedies
"31 Miata 99-00 - 2 cams not seen"
Assuming MS2 use the same codes as MS3...

krispe

I have no idea Niklas. VVT soleniod upplugged car runs fine, plug it in and go above about 30% throttle = Lost sync 31??

NiklasFalk

iTrader: (1)

I would triple check anything related to TPS, OCV and Cam sensor (wires connectors, solder, traces, ...).
Isolated the Signal Ground from the ECU ground (should only meet at one place in the ECU)?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

v3.0 with expander?

richyvrlimited

iTrader: (1)

The cam and crank triggers are going out of sync, at idle the VVT is pretty static - fully retarded - it's only as the OP accelerates the VVT advances and pushes the signals closer together until they cross.

I bet if you took a trigger log it'd show this.

I wonder if the crank trigger wheel is on backwards, or the cam pulley has been incorrectly fitted?

krispe

Hi Mr Slow

Composite ignition log https://app.box.com/s/hnlfxqs6qn655ahnmg5a

The original crankpully/trigger plate was damaged on this engine so I swapped it for one off the MK2 engine I had laying around. I don't remember removing the trigger plate from the pulley itself, (swapped them as a complete unit), for it to be on backwards, but the MK2 engine it came from was not using the crank sensor (it was using a CAS on the exhaust cam as it had previously been fitted to a MK1 car, so it could have been the wrong way round already and no one noticed?

How can I tell if the trigger plate is on backwards? The engine seems fine with the VVT solenoid unplugged. But when I first got it running and checked the base timing on the VVT engine I had to increase the ignition offset by 9degress using the Trigger wizard to get the timing marks to line up correctly.

Thanks again guys for your help.

NiklasFalk

iTrader: (1)

A composite log with the OCV disconnected could be compared to the fully retarded one. If it differs something is mechanically different than stock.

If the cam is one tooth advanced (15 degrees) the VVT can only reach +12 - +56 (if stock zero is -3 and 44 degree range)
If one tooth retarded the range would be -18 - +26.

Since the CAM sensor reads the cam and not the wheel it should not move it out of sync if you don't ask it to do so. Ask the VVT to reach 0 and try again?
What VVT angle is reported with the OCV disconnected?

Hmm 9 degree offset to get one of the marks to align? Are you sure you have looked at the right one?
If you advance the trigger wheel 25 degrees it will be symmetrical.


But if the sync error comes with Throttle angle and not RPM I would look into electronic gremlins.


Edit: looking a bit deeper into the last log the Lost Sync 31 come after the VVT Target goes above 25 degrees. The VVT Angle and VVT Duty are both zero in the log so i have no idea what's actually happening.

This is a much newer FW than what I'm using, but the pattern is visible in Excel.

richyvrlimited

iTrader: (1)

Just clocked this.

With the MK2 crank and cam sensors it's unlikely your timing would be out by this much, there's little play in the sensor positioning.

Are you 100% sure the timing mark lit up by the strobe was the correct mark?

Are you 100% sure the timing mark actually marries with TDC (check with the dipstick in Cyl no 1).

Try setting the trigger angle back where it was and see if you loose sync again.

NiklasFalk

iTrader: (1)

Unless the damper (which have the marks) have slipped some, which would fool anyone with a timing light.
The trigger wheel does not follow the damper and zero offset should be OK, and if you need precision you should measure on a dyno anyway (so the absolute reference is not that interesting).