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Old 05-14-2009, 03:13 AM   #21
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hes already got a sick flowing head. I guess he could sell it and buy a 1.8 but then he would have to get a new exhaust manifold to fit up to his turbo. more $$$
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Old 05-14-2009, 03:37 AM   #22
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I has a thread awhile back... "pricing a mild build" I think was the title... lots of good information in there. Do an Advanced Search under my username and find it.
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Old 05-14-2009, 06:48 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RotorNutFD3S View Post
Just got the engine back Monday with a new OEM oil pump and it all should be installed into the car and running on Friday. Hopefully I log more than 14.5 miles this time.
Interested to hear the outcome of this. ZX's was sort of a fluke thing with the burrs in the relief valve. Mine is apart right now and I was going to just slap the gears into my current housing - the motor had great oil pressure before I opened it up, so I'd have to be convinced to change the pump now.
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Old 05-14-2009, 07:20 AM   #24
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The biggest variables for sure are labor and piston and rod costs, also mileage and condition of the block before work. My rebuild with stock pistons and rods only cost me something like $500, and thats with the rings and bearings, crank scraper, timing belt kit (belt, tensioner, idler, spring), ALL new seals and orings and machine work (which was only really head machining and welding of an oil return bung since other specs were still good at 10#,000 miles). Rebuilding is cheap until you actually do it right and go after market rods and pistons, which more than doubles it, then add in any block work you need to make it all fit, and thats another $100-$200...

Still wish I had done the Belfab kit...
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Old 05-14-2009, 07:35 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
Interested to hear the outcome of this. ZX's was sort of a fluke thing with the burrs in the relief valve. Mine is apart right now and I was going to just slap the gears into my current housing - the motor had great oil pressure before I opened it up, so I'd have to be convinced to change the pump now.
Mine was the same issue, metal (or burrs if you will) shavings seized the valve open. No problems with oil pressure before either. So now it's OEM pump and OEM gears again.
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Old 05-14-2009, 03:42 PM   #26
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Sam, thanks a lot!

I'll search a little deeper!


Got it!


Guys, thanks very much for this wonderful info!
I very much appreciate it!

FWIW, I'm thinking of a new (to me) block, do all the work out of the car, two days on the lift, swap the blocks.
Seems like it's a good idea to get stronger internals.

Now, to figure out what the hell over-boring is, and how much I should go over... And, whom to ask to measure the cylinders?
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Old 05-14-2009, 03:57 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alik View Post
Sam, thanks a lot!

I'll search a little deeper!


Got it!


Guys, thanks very much for this wonderful info!
I very much appreciate it!

FWIW, I'm thinking of a new (to me) block, do all the work out of the car, two days on the lift, swap the blocks.
Seems like it's a good idea to get stronger internals.

Now, to figure out what the hell over-boring is, and how much I should go over... And, whom to ask to measure the cylinders?
It depends on the size of the pistons as to how much over the cylinders need to be bored. If I had to do it over, I would go with the 84mm 8.7:1 Supertech's, or the Belfab equal, then either the 949 rods, or the Belfabs. Any machine shop can measure the bore, or at least I hope so, or else I wouldn't use them.
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Old 05-14-2009, 04:07 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot_Wheels View Post
why not put a 1.8 in it?
I like the extra space under the hood with the 1.6 and I didn't want to have to buy a new manifold/dp.
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