late to the party, but if your still having breaker problems, find some thinner material to weld on and you wont have to use such a high amperage. Also I wouldn't worry too much about your fans and overheating the machine. They work the same as your car radiator- if the engine isn't ON and making heat, there doesn't need to be cooling. The only time I'd be concerned is if your were running close to the edge of the machines duty cycle.

 

Even doing like 60% duty cycle at 90amps on my wp17 sized torch if ambient temps are over like 85°F I've got to take breaks every like half hour to let the torch get cool enough that its not unpleasant to hold. But **** a whole bunch of any welding when its that hot out. Though the day it was a couple degrees cooler but with like 90% humidity was even worse.

 

The cheaper Chinese torch consumables do not last that long, especially for the nozzle, when cutting heavier stuff the hole can get enlarged after just one use. The good news is that I hot a set of like 50 tips/nozzles, 50 electrodes, 10 cups and 10 spinny things (sorry bad terminology) for $30. That buys you one spare set of consumables for the Eastwood plasma torch. You really just need replacement tips/nozzles, I have only replaced the electrode once for the ~10 tips I have used and am still on the original cup and spinny thing. This works out a ton cheaper than cutting disks and is much cleaner and quicker to use.


I could make these tips last longer, but I got them for so cheap I replace them as soon as the tip gets enlarged by the least bit. I keep the ones that aren't horrible for jobs where I am not looking for the pretties or cleanest cut.


We are all cheap bastards on this forum and this is a tool, just like the good Chinese TIG's that work well for our application. I would not recommend it if I was using it daily and my paycheck depended on it, but pulling it out every couple of weekend it works just fine.


Get the dual voltage model through!

 

i don't think the dual voltage unit has pilot arc start. would losing that be worth the tradeoff to dual voltage?

 

The base model I linked does not have pilot arc either. You need to spend a good bit more to get a descent pilot arc plasma cutter. The pilot arc adds complexity to the design and more failure points. From what I remember in my research the pilot arc circuitry adds additional wear on the rest of the system because of the voltages needed to generate that pilot arc instead of lighting off close to the metal. This was part of why I picked the most basic non pilot arc and single voltage Chinese plasma cutter when I did it.


Unless you are doing a lot of cutting where you need to be able to light off the arc in mid air or cutting expanded metal or something where you will not be keeping the tip in close proximity to the metal during the entire cut, you really don't need the pilot arc.


If you are planning to use the cutter on a CNC table where the controller will be triggering the arc in free air, it helps to have the pilot arc. I doubt you would use a cheapo like this for a CNC table that costs 4-8 times as much.


I bought my dual voltage Eastwood TIG after I got this plasma cutter. I hardly ever use the lower 110V supply, but it is nice when I am welding outside of my garage where I do not have a 220V feed. The TIG is a little big to tote around, but the plasma cutter is so small and doesn't need a Argon bottle so it is real easy to take it places for projects at other people's houses. That is where the 110V use would be handy.


If you are only using the plasma cutter in your shop that has a 220V outlet, then stick with the single voltage model. KISS. Less to go wrong.

 

<p>Picked these bottles up on CL for 140 the other day. Small bottle for going portable and big one for whenever else.</p><p></p>

 

That's a steal. It's nice to have a spare bottle.

 

Yep, Im super forgetful so its good to have a spare.

 

Thanks for reminding me. I need to fill the tank on my grill.

 

My CUT50 came friday. Something fucky, no air comes out the torch and it wont spark. Then about 10 minutes in to troubleshooting it, trigger stopped clicking. Of course the factory is on vacation this week.

 

mine came 2-3 weeks ago. worked fine once we figured a couple of things out.

1) you need to hold the torch no more than 1/8" from the metal
2) at least 60psi on the air
3) replace the cheesy fitting that tees into the regulator with a bspt to 1/8" npt adapter
and it won't sound like more air is leaking than is making it to the gauge
4) this thing really wants 220v. works fine on sheet metal at 110v, but the difference with 220v is enlightening.
5) chinese documentation is not helpful at all.

good luck with yours, i think you'll like it once you get it going.

 

Which torch did you get with yours? The cheap Chinese one with the separate crappy plastic trigger switch seems to regularly have issues with the trigger switch. Definitely want to order a spare switch if you get a replacement. I was lucky and happened to get an upgraded torch on mine that is much better. The listing for the CUT50 I bought showed that standard crappy torch, but I just got lucky I guess.

 

I have the crappy torch that uses that separate trigger, but if it breaks out of warranty I'll just pay the $40 for a real ESAB 50A torch.

 

Electricians. or internet electricians. how does my 10-50 to 6-50 conversion cord look? will it kill me? or more importantly my welder? or will it work

 

ours is made by tosense, has the wsd-60 torch that uses electrodes that look
a little like bullets. the electrodes in the pt-31 torch are reversible, wsd-60's are not. $255.00 shipped.

 

I'm not an electrician but I think the important things to evaluate are hidden in the box.

Also, I would check the amperage rating/gauge on that Home Depot dryer cord. You may find it is undersized (for a welder) so that it is cheaper to manufacture and is acting like a giant resistor. If it is undersize, make it as short as possible. Even if it isn't, make it as short as possible. Rubber cords are not great for a lot of reasons.

 

50amp cord

 

Assuming the internal connections at the receptacle are solid (not too many nicked / broken strands, full capture of wire under screw, etc) it'll be fine.

Range cords are rated for continuous operation, and due to having less insulation, are actually good for slightly higher current-per-gauge than SJ cable. The ground / neutral conductor on those cords is massively undersized as compared to SJ, but I wouldn't expect any unbalanced current in a welder.

 

That should work just fine. It looks very similar to the dryer/range to welder cable I have for when I weld at my brother's house.

 

It worked just fine. I had to cut off the ring terminals from the dryer cord but otherwise I got the full 200 amps my welder can offer.