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Also look into AC Balance settings for the AHP. From what I remember reading, it's opposite of most welders. I think I remember hearing 35% was a typical value to put it at, and that's where I had it with good success on aluminum.
Also look into AC Balance settings for the AHP. From what I remember reading, it's opposite of most welders. I think I remember hearing 35% was a typical value to put it at, and that's where I had it with good success on aluminum.
Balance adjusts the cleaning capabilities. More cleaning= wider beade, more power needed for penetrating welds. less cleaning= narroe bead deeper dig, less power needed to penetrate.
more cleaning puts more juice into the alternating portion of the current.
the biggest thing you will notice in the change of balance is the etching and how much heat your tungsten absorbs. there is more effect on the size of the bead from the frequency of the current than there is on the balance.
FWIW, I almost never play with my AC balance once I found what I personally like it set on. Im sure there is a little compromise in doing it that way (like a small etch zone on a finished part) but it just works and im not always messing with it to get back to what I like. I do however change the ac frequency around. I run about 100hz on thinner stuff and lower the frequency down to get more concentrated on-time for thicker materials.
the scratches from a wire wheel will make polishing a problem. don't use a wire wheel on something you intend on polishing, especially near a weld that you wont be grinding off. wire wheels are far too aggressive. even if your not intending to polish the part, don't use a wire wheel. it will gall up the aluminum and in the process make another layer of aluminum that will oxidize much faster and much deeper. (look at someone who has wire wheeled their intake manifold or valve cover after a year - they will need to wheel/finish it again because it wasn't the right process)
if you must clean up the weld etching on aluminum with something from the hardware store, use an ultra fine scotchbrite (by hand). the oxide layer shouldn't be very deep or hard to remove.
try an industrial shop for consumables. the guys there will usually know more and help you choose your abrasives or put you in contact with their rep to get something more in line with machine oxide removal.
Wire wheel. Wire brush. Whatever works. You do know that they make wires in different roughness right? Anybody with half a brain can understand it's not intended to remove material, just clean the surface. I've got wire wheels that you could run on your bare hand and it wouldn't hurt you.
You need to preclean aluminum with acetone so you don't wire brush into the material any of the crap AND NEVER use brake cleaner or carb cleaner as it well most likely be the last weld you live to do. Then wire brush it with a soft to med stiff wire brush that you use for nothing but aluminum.
You need to preclean aluminum with acetone so you don't wire brush into the material any of the crap AND NEVER use brake cleaner or carb cleaner as it well most likely be the last weld you live to do. Then wire brush it with a soft to med stiff wire brush that you use for nothing but aluminum.
Non-chlorinated brake cleaner (which is the only kind they sell in CA) is fine. It's just hydrocarbons.
So I decided to try out my hand in welding.I have absolutely zero idea what I'm doing. Miller 140STR-- Does Tig and Stick, but I'm fairly confident that there is no way I can handle Tig.
I've got some general questions for some of the more experienced folks here.
I noticed that some electrodes prefer DC over AC? Any reasoning to this?
How do most manage power? I do not have access to 230v, so that is out of the question. However, is it safe to just plug into any 115v? Dangers in using a 12 gauge extension cord??
I am a little worried about the two tanks I got as well. I really do not know if the gas is CD or Argon. Is there a way to test this? Maybe I should just empty them and refill to be safe.
Again - no idea what I'm doing - sorry about the dumb questions.
Sell that, take a welding class at your local JC, buy a mig machine.
My best friends dad lent it to me. He bought it years ago with the idea to learn. Sat in the garage until i came and got it from him. I really have no interest in spending hundreds of dollars, on a new one.
80 amps is not going to do much. In general, you need 1 amp per .001 of metal (steel) thickness. So at full power on 120vac, you got enough power to weld less than 1/8" steel.
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