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Old Jun 17, 2016 | 07:25 PM
  #361  
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Originally Posted by portabull
before doing your exhaust, check out: Project Binky - Episode 12 - Austin Mini GT-Four - Turbocharged 4WD Mini - YouTube
at 13:00 he starts fabricating his exhaust. also builds a most clever jig for a cutoff saw. i love project binky. the best fabricator i've ever seen.
That rack/rotisserie is full of awesome.

Thanks for showing me this, I'm going to copy that saw jig.
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Old Jun 21, 2016 | 09:21 AM
  #362  
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3 month follow up on my eastwood 135. This thing is way under powered. The settings chart with c25 tops out at 12 gauge and it won't penetrate 1/8 plate properly in a single pass. They advertise it as "up to 3/16 with solid core wire". I'm not sure how they came to that conclusion. To do 3/16 I think you would be limited to a few types of joints and you would need big bevels and a torch preheat. Im going to get rid of it and pick up a decent small lincoln or horbart/miller.
Old Jun 21, 2016 | 12:51 PM
  #363  
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I think there's some thing wrong with the welder if all the settings are correct. I've welded 1/8" w/o issue on some cheap 110v MIGs- CH, HF and Clarke. You need to take advantage of Eastwood customer service and explain to them what's up. They've been great to me.
Old Jun 21, 2016 | 01:15 PM
  #364  
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FWIW this is the settings chart:
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Old Jun 21, 2016 | 03:00 PM
  #365  
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I guess there's no grounds for a phone call then. What a pity.
Old Jun 27, 2016 | 04:18 PM
  #366  
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Just showed up. I'm pumped.
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Old Jun 27, 2016 | 05:23 PM
  #367  
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Nice! You're going to be very happy with it.
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Old Jun 27, 2016 | 06:26 PM
  #368  
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Thanks Ryan. I think you buying one pushed me over the edge.
Old Jul 14, 2016 | 11:34 AM
  #369  
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if you want a cabinet for your welder, now is the time. this one from northern tool ($169) has a drawer on the bottom for your helmet. the harbor freight one has a cubbyhole on the bottom and is $154.99 this week. i think the drawer is worth the $15, and they are ball-bearing drawer slides.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200395734_200395734

edit:

i don't know why, but the link above says the item is no longer available. i bought one yesterday. perhaps you can still find one on the shelf in your local store. good luck.
edit:
ah, i see what they've done there. they've discontinued 164782 and replaced it with 48348 which is now branded as "klutch" and btw, they raised the non-sale price to $229 (48348) from $219 (164782). best plan, search your local store shelves.

Last edited by portabull; Jul 14, 2016 at 12:03 PM.
Old Jul 14, 2016 | 01:15 PM
  #370  
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Looks like a nice enough cart however I built my own. I have limited shop space so my cart fits into a small space between my tool box and shelving. Also, has a small table built into the top of it and more places to hang torch, ground, power lead, ect. Plus it's always a good first welder project.
Old Jul 14, 2016 | 06:50 PM
  #371  
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Originally Posted by williams805
I built my own
show it to us....
Old Jul 16, 2016 | 01:12 PM
  #372  
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Tig welding gloves: my harbor freight work gloves keep catching on fire when my filler gets too short. Any suggestions?
Old Jul 16, 2016 | 01:37 PM
  #373  
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I use McMaster deerskin TIG gloves. They're annoying for the first 2 uses because the material sheds a little bit, but after that they are wonderful. Super soft, thin, and still protective. They are good at keeping radiant heat way, but not conductive at all, so don't except to be able to pick up freshly welded joints and stuff. McMaster-Carr
Old Jul 17, 2016 | 04:49 PM
  #374  
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Steiner IronFlex TIG gloves work great, lots more feel through them than regular MIG gloves but still insulate pretty well. Also highly recommend a Tig Finger - particularly for aluminum but once you have it you'll use it on everything.
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Old Jul 17, 2016 | 08:11 PM
  #375  
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Originally Posted by acedeuce802
I use McMaster deerskin TIG gloves. They're annoying for the first 2 uses because the material sheds a little bit, but after that they are wonderful. Super soft, thin, and still protective. They are good at keeping radiant heat way, but not conductive at all, so don't except to be able to pick up freshly welded joints and stuff. McMaster-Carr
Similar to these? https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Split.../dp/B002D8Y8E6

Originally Posted by ThePass
Also highly recommend a Tig Finger - particularly for aluminum but once you have it you'll use it on everything.
Like this? https://www.amazon.com/Welding-Tips-.../dp/B00GYHT8PG
Old Jul 17, 2016 | 08:24 PM
  #376  
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Exactly that.
Old Jul 17, 2016 | 08:25 PM
  #377  
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Kewl. Thanks guys. I'll report back when I get to try them out next. I burnt too many holes in my harbor freight work gloves. And yesterday my filler rod melted a chunk of glove and it stuck to my hand with a nice burn.
Old Jul 17, 2016 | 09:22 PM
  #378  
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Yep, I think those are the exact ones. Pretty sure the McMaster are Tillman.
Old Jul 18, 2016 | 07:20 PM
  #379  
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yup tig finger is awesome.

I use the deerskin for anything delicate and the goat skins for anything less so or just hot.
Old Sep 15, 2016 | 09:24 PM
  #380  
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Just upgraded to an Alpha TIG, largely based off this thread. Ordered on Amazon for $690, and it showed up the next day.

I'm really psyched to start using it for its inaugural master cylinder brace project.



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