Ahh, I have one of those. I sucked horribly when using it. It may have been though because I was trying to learn and use it. So I have never gone back.

 

yeah, for a few tacks here and there auto darkening is fine.

welding for a few hours/full day I go straight to the full-deep. no chance for a flash, no chance you get zapped with it turning off too fast because the piece is still glowing and bright AF (really common when welding aluminum, but still applies to steel). AND its like 1/4 the weight. for those full-days of welding you REALLY notice the weight difference.

 

I used to get flashed all the time with my shitty HF lid. I've had my Miller lid for a year and have not been flashed once, had any issues with post-glow flicker, etc.

I have never once in my life regretted spending money on nice tools.

 

3M Speedglass and never regert.

 

My Jackson Nexgen is now 14 years old. It started life with 4 years of daily use, and is still used 2-3 times a week. I've only had to change batteries and cover plates. It's still one of the clearest auto-dark lenses I've looked through, and is basically on par with a gold fixed shade lens. One of these days I'll pick up the smaller, lighter hoods to pop the unit into.

 

I also have one of those too. One of the best IMO.

 

im comparing to a Miller Digital Elite. its an outstanding hood, but it still isn't as good as a passive hood.

 

Another thread drift....

I am looking for something to cut longer sheet aluminum and steel. Thinner stuff. I dont like how shears bend up **** on one side.

I have a portable band saw on a swag offroad table. It has a limited throat. I also have an air cut off tool that consumes air faster than Hustler sucks on.....well, anyways. It isnt ideal.

I ended up using a corded jigsaw with a metal cutting blade. Not ideal either. I am looking at a Milwaukee m12 cut off tool. It has a removable shoe that allows depth change and different blades for tile etc.

Any other suggestions?

 

Take it to your local metal supply shop that has a 10ft hydraulic shear. That's how I cut all of the .055" aluminum for radiator ducting, For intricate pieces, I will have them shear it as close as possible, and then cut notches with a jigsaw.

 

I've always wanted an excuse to buy one of these.

 

Hmmmm, that cuts quick.

I looked at the Eastwood 8" manual shear. Can do up to 3/16 in smaller pieces. It can cut longer than 8" due to throatless design. One reviewer commented it was difficult to make the final of multiple inline cuts.

 

The Milwaukee with the shoe attached.

 

I was going to suggest a circular saw with a metal cutting blade and a guide fence.

 

yeah, depends how thick it is. I wouldn't try circular sawing anything around or under 1/16"

 

Jebus, I just went down the rabbit hole of cutting sheet metal. Started off with the HF throatless cutter and ended up at Beverly.

I need to decide what my future needs will be and go from there. I have a large square that I believe will work as guide, should I go with the milwaukee. The bench mounted shears are tempting. Seems most are made at the same chinese factory with different paint/stickers.

 

honestly, if you are safe about it, you can probably rip it with a circular saw...

when I did it I was doing 1/8" wall with a variety of blades I had... the higher tooth count is nicer for thinner materials because its more forgiving.

 

Bought the HF throatless shear and it's a POS. Already boxed up and going back. It looks like a caveman built it with stones. It cut ok but the blades dont look healthy and the rest is just a sloppy mess.

Looking at a woodward fab. It is supposedly made out of steel vs cast iron. I need to decide soon though. Ebay 15% ends tonight.

 

i have the HF throatless shear and i've been happy with it.

 

Ordered the Woodward fab. Fingers crossed.

 

Wooward fab arrived today. Very impressed with this for the money. Blades seem right out of the box. The lever is stout and not sloppy.