Fabulous Fabrication Post all your custom fabrication projects here; impress all your friends.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

The custom fabrication thread! (Post pics of stuff you have made)

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-18-2013, 01:51 PM
  #181  
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Adamsm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 66
Total Cats: 0
Default

Ya, all in house. The flywheel is 94-97, the clutch is for a NC 6 speed 23 spline and the pressure plate is 94-97. All off the shelf items. The pilot bearing is also stock. Mazda just wanted this to work out.
Adamsm is offline  
Old 03-18-2013, 01:54 PM
  #182  
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
 
shuiend's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 15,177
Total Cats: 1,681
Default

Originally Posted by Adamsm
Ya, all in house. The flywheel is 94-97, the clutch is for a NC 6 speed 23 spline and the pressure plate is 94-97. All off the shelf items. The pilot bearing is also stock. Mazda just wanted this to work out.
Very interesting. If you can do this in your garage, why have all the other companies had problems with getting this built.

If you were to make another adapter plate, roughly how much do you think it would cost?
shuiend is offline  
Old 03-18-2013, 02:06 PM
  #183  
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Adamsm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 66
Total Cats: 0
Default

It took me 2 full days to get the plate completed. Measuring, cutting, drilling, sanding .... The total material cost was around $200, that's the plate, the countersunk hardware and the dowel pins. Once I get the car on the road (hopefully in the next 2 weeks or so) i'll be able to see how well it works. I designed this one to use a 6-speed starter. If it works as planned i'll remove it and send it out to a have a number of plates cut out by water jet or lazer. Total price, I have no clue yet what I would sell them for.

Originally Posted by Leafy
One can only hope the clutch is not the one from the 3rd picture.
It's just the PP and it's been on the car for 30K miles. Stage II fingers are crossed.
Adamsm is offline  
Old 03-18-2013, 02:17 PM
  #184  
Elite Member
iTrader: (46)
 
Stein's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 4,729
Total Cats: 166
Default

Originally Posted by shuiend
I just took a TIG class at my local community college. It was 4 weeks long and we only welded with mild steel. The actual classes that teach more then that were regular semester long classes, but those have a 2 year wait on them. I honestly would not recommend the class unless it goes over more then just mild steel. I did get better at welding during it, but that is more because I spend tons of time practicing.

If you are interested in only building 1 manifold and thats it then I would suggest going to Abe and getting it done. If you want to actually be able to fabricate and build things in the future then I would say learn to weld. After you factor in costs of welder, and saws, and other tools your costs will far exceed the cost of just having a custom made.
I just finished a TIG class at the local CC last week. It was the normal 10 week course that the regular students took. I learned more in that 10 weeks than I learned in the 20 years of being a self-taught hack. Definitely worth it.

My class was 6:30-9:30 pm Tue / Thurs and was $160 total.

I'm taking another one this same quarter next winter. Maybe MIG or more TIG. As I was a non-traditional student I could do whatever metal and thickness I wanted to so I did stainless, aluminum and thin mild steel as that's what I'll use it for at home. It's a nice time to take class as it is dark and cold after work and can't do anything else.
Stein is offline  
Old 03-18-2013, 02:22 PM
  #185  
Elite Member
iTrader: (9)
 
TurboTim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Chesterfield, NJ
Posts: 6,898
Total Cats: 399
Default

Nice job on the adapter. Whacha doing with the PPF?

BEGI's T5 swap makes more sense to me.
Attached Thumbnails The custom fabrication thread! (Post pics of stuff you have made)-12172_10151155160920911_1686094443_n.jpg  
TurboTim is offline  
Old 03-18-2013, 03:33 PM
  #186  
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
 
shuiend's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 15,177
Total Cats: 1,681
Default

Originally Posted by Adamsm
It took me 2 full days to get the plate completed. Measuring, cutting, drilling, sanding .... The total material cost was around $200, that's the plate, the countersunk hardware and the dowel pins. Once I get the car on the road (hopefully in the next 2 weeks or so) i'll be able to see how well it works. I designed this one to use a 6-speed starter. If it works as planned i'll remove it and send it out to a have a number of plates cut out by water jet or lazer. Total price, I have no clue yet what I would sell them for.
You are all ready way ahead of what I was going to ask next about having additional ones made. I have a few RX-7 friends and if cost can be kept semi minimal, this might become an excellent swap.

Originally Posted by Stein
I just finished a TIG class at the local CC last week. It was the normal 10 week course that the regular students took. I learned more in that 10 weeks than I learned in the 20 years of being a self-taught hack. Definitely worth it.

My class was 6:30-9:30 pm Tue / Thurs and was $160 total.

I'm taking another one this same quarter next winter. Maybe MIG or more TIG. As I was a non-traditional student I could do whatever metal and thickness I wanted to so I did stainless, aluminum and thin mild steel as that's what I'll use it for at home. It's a nice time to take class as it is dark and cold after work and can't do anything else.
I wish they would let me take the normal welding classes like that. When I talked to the local college they were very against it. I had specifically wanted to learn to TIG aluminum and stainless steal.

How were the TIG welders at the college? Did you have to scratch start the torches? For whatever reason I have so much trouble with scratch starting the torch and not contaminating it when working on t-joints. With my Lincoln at home where it autostarts I have no problems at all with it.
shuiend is offline  
Old 03-18-2013, 05:42 PM
  #187  
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Erat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Posts: 5,677
Total Cats: 800
Default

We have Dynasty 350's with a water cooler where i go to school.

Usually they don't care what order you take the classes in. I mean, if you don't care about passing or failing. I can't say if they just let random people come in to the shop just to weld, but i can't see why not. IMO the projects they made us do taught me way more than if i was to just go into a booth and start buzzing stuff.

Protip: If you ever flash yourself i found it best to hurry up, flip the mask down and start welding. That seems to "cure" it and stop it from hurting / being blind quickest and easiest. Not sure why, but it's better than other techniques i've tried.
Erat is offline  
Old 03-18-2013, 06:01 PM
  #188  
Elite Member
iTrader: (46)
 
Stein's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 4,729
Total Cats: 166
Default

Originally Posted by shuiend
How were the TIG welders at the college? Did you have to scratch start the torches? For whatever reason I have so much trouble with scratch starting the torch and not contaminating it when working on t-joints. With my Lincoln at home where it autostarts I have no problems at all with it.
Nice equipment. Everything from Dynastys to Lincoln 275s and some older ESAB units. One or two were able to scratch start and we did have to do one for our testing. As we were part of the normal curriculum we had to do the theory class which took the first three weeks. I blew the curve on the final with a 105% with the bonus questions, lol. We had to set up and run beads on 12 different machines with different fillers and materials to weld. One was the scratch start. Not really necessary for me as I have exactly one TIG machine at home but it's nice to know how to set up different machines.
Stein is offline  
Old 03-19-2013, 10:58 AM
  #189  
I'm Miserable!
iTrader: (13)
 
DoapParts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 255
Total Cats: 0
Default

Some stuff we have been working on.
Sorry we have been so quite lately been busy In the shop.

Customers Custom turbo kit.
DoapFab manifold to downpipe. with BOV welded to the endtank.

Welding the downpipe

The furthest pipe is the dump tube, and the closer pipe is the Downpipe.

Along with back purging we also weld the inside of certain flanges to ensure reliably and quality.

Welding the Greddy RS Blow of valve to the Intercooler endtank

You can see the Back door intercooler set up, using a proper Hump hose.
Attached Thumbnails The custom fabrication thread! (Post pics of stuff you have made)-logo2_zpsfe5c0cfe.jpg   The custom fabrication thread! (Post pics of stuff you have made)-logo3_zps0581322d.jpg   The custom fabrication thread! (Post pics of stuff you have made)-logo4_zps471bf63e.jpg   The custom fabrication thread! (Post pics of stuff you have made)-logo1_zpsc74ae795.jpg   The custom fabrication thread! (Post pics of stuff you have made)-logo5_zps03e54f04.jpg  


Last edited by DoapParts; 03-19-2013 at 11:14 AM.
DoapParts is offline  
Old 03-19-2013, 04:10 PM
  #190  
Elite Member
iTrader: (8)
 
shlammed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Kingston, Ontario
Posts: 2,910
Total Cats: 51
Default

Not bad for your first turbo manifold.
shlammed is offline  
Old 03-19-2013, 04:27 PM
  #191  
Elite Member
iTrader: (9)
 
TurboTim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Chesterfield, NJ
Posts: 6,898
Total Cats: 399
Default

Looks good. I use much thinner filler wire...I may try thicker now
TurboTim is offline  
Old 03-19-2013, 04:29 PM
  #192  
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
 
shuiend's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 15,177
Total Cats: 1,681
Default

Originally Posted by TurboTim
Looks good. I use much thinner filler wire...I may try thicker now
When you build the manifolds do you go back and reweld the insides like the one picture of DoapParts for the downpipe they are working on?
shuiend is offline  
Old 03-19-2013, 04:43 PM
  #193  
Elite Member
iTrader: (9)
 
TurboTim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Chesterfield, NJ
Posts: 6,898
Total Cats: 399
Default

I sometimes do inside the flanges, I sometime don't.
TurboTim is offline  
Old 03-19-2013, 06:42 PM
  #194  
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
 
vehicular's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 1,855
Total Cats: 47
Default

That's a really warped down pipe flange.

And what's up with the adapter on a custom manifold? Why not flange the manifold for the correct turbo?
vehicular is offline  
Old 03-20-2013, 02:59 AM
  #195  
I'm Miserable!
iTrader: (13)
 
DoapParts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 255
Total Cats: 0
Default

The flange is not warped?!.... It is not fully bolted down. It would take alot of heat and carelessness to warp that Mild steel flange that bad. HAHA. We do our best to ensure a flat mating surface on ALL flanges we weld. However we are human, so we surface everything before it goes out.
The Kit is coming off and the car is being towed back home. This is the reasoning for the lack of hardware. we just put it on for one last picture.

The customer wanted to Be able to switch to a T3 framed turbo when she is done with the internally gated setup. At that time we will also add the desired wastegate flange.

Last edited by DoapParts; 03-20-2013 at 03:34 AM.
DoapParts is offline  
Old 03-20-2013, 05:59 AM
  #196  
Elite Member
 
nitrodann's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 2,826
Total Cats: 67
Default

If you do big enough welds with enough penetration to never break even after dozens of laps on a car making 400% more power than stock, the flanges warp unless they are bolted to at least 3 other flanges.

Also its not warped, the turbo and the adaptor arent exactly the same shape as the flange, which is common.

Dann
nitrodann is offline  
Old 03-20-2013, 01:43 PM
  #197  
Junior Member
 
Diamond Dave's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 189
Total Cats: 35
Default

Originally Posted by TurboTim
Nice job on the adapter. Whacha doing with the PPF?
Given the fixed trans tunnel mounts, it appears that "no PPF" is the answer.
Diamond Dave is offline  
Old 03-20-2013, 08:25 PM
  #198  
Elite Member
iTrader: (9)
 
TurboTim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Chesterfield, NJ
Posts: 6,898
Total Cats: 399
Default

PPF does more than support the rear of the trans.

It supports the battery cable to the starter.........and something else too I think.
TurboTim is offline  
Old 03-20-2013, 08:43 PM
  #199  
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Leafy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: NH
Posts: 9,479
Total Cats: 104
Default

Originally Posted by TurboTim
PPF does more than support the rear of the trans.

It supports the battery cable to the starter.........and something else too I think.
I think the diff too, and something else too.
Leafy is offline  
Old 03-21-2013, 08:50 AM
  #200  
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Adamsm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 66
Total Cats: 0
Default

Yes, I removed or cut out the PPF. I don’t have any pictures at the moment but it looks similar to this.


Securing the battery cable to the upper portion of the tunnel was not difficult.
Adamsm is offline  


Quick Reply: The custom fabrication thread! (Post pics of stuff you have made)



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:36 PM.