Post how much you spent on your video card to play Candy Crush
#182
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Posts: 5,677
Total Cats: 800
Is that from post to login screen? Seems kinda slow.
I love / hate win10.
I'm having the worst audio issues. Cracking / popping. I've tried two audio cards and a couple drivers for each. No change.
I love / hate win10.
I'm having the worst audio issues. Cracking / popping. I've tried two audio cards and a couple drivers for each. No change.
#184
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Posts: 5,677
Total Cats: 800
Oh, that makes sense.
I'm so glad i made the move to an SSD. I waited to long.
Current specs:
GPU: EVGA GTX 980
Processor: AMD X4 965, H50 AIO cooler
Motherboard: Asus M4N98TD
Memory: 16gb Corsair DDR3
HD: 500 GB Samsung SSD 850 EVO + 2tb physical storage
PSU: Antec 1200w
Case: Ultra Aluminus (2006, retro as frig)
I'm so glad i made the move to an SSD. I waited to long.
Current specs:
GPU: EVGA GTX 980
Processor: AMD X4 965, H50 AIO cooler
Motherboard: Asus M4N98TD
Memory: 16gb Corsair DDR3
HD: 500 GB Samsung SSD 850 EVO + 2tb physical storage
PSU: Antec 1200w
Case: Ultra Aluminus (2006, retro as frig)
#185
Oh, that makes sense.
I'm so glad i made the move to an SSD. I waited to long.
Current specs:
GPU: EVGA GTX 980
Processor: AMD X4 965, H50 AIO cooler
Motherboard: Asus M4N98TD
Memory: 16gb Corsair DDR3
HD: 500 GB Samsung SSD 850 EVO + 2tb physical storage
PSU: Antec 1200w
Case: Ultra Aluminus (2006, retro as frig)
I'm so glad i made the move to an SSD. I waited to long.
Current specs:
GPU: EVGA GTX 980
Processor: AMD X4 965, H50 AIO cooler
Motherboard: Asus M4N98TD
Memory: 16gb Corsair DDR3
HD: 500 GB Samsung SSD 850 EVO + 2tb physical storage
PSU: Antec 1200w
Case: Ultra Aluminus (2006, retro as frig)
cpu-world.com - amd phenom ii x6 vs amd phenom ii x4 965
On the OEM scale, I hardly squeak by with my turbo & larger L2 But probably trivial differences if you're overclocked & on water lol. Plus my Mobo is stuck to ddr2.
So far, going from WinXP on a physical drive to win7 64bit SSD has been night & day. Apparently this 'new' cpu I got will be more than enough to keep going. I don't have to upgrade anything else, just drop it in
cpu-world.com - amd athlon ii x4 620 vs amd phenom ii x6 1065t
GPU: MSI GTX 750 Ti
CPU: About to install, amd phenom ii x6 1065t (Currently: amd athlon ii x4 620)
MOBO: Pos Gigabyte GA-MA74GM-S2
MEM: 4GB (2x2GB) G.Skill DDR2 1066 (stupid mobo)
HD(s): OS: Samsung SSD 850 Pro 256GB (3 Gbps sata) Games: WD Black 750GB
PSU: ocz zt series 550w
CASE: Early 2000's apevia x-dreamer case
Mine is now sporting a full 80mm Noctua filtered fan system (6 total & silent) + a GELID blue touchscreen 6 fan controller. Side window fan became filtered cold air intake for stock cpu cooler. Top fan sits outside the case extracting bc 550w fitment, Has metal chrome grill guard for teh blingz. Rubbery silicon gaskets for extra silence dampening everywhere.
I got the fan controller & fans right before frozencpu died a tragic death , and my front temp display died years ago, it was too bright anyways.
Last edited by Girz0r; 01-19-2016 at 08:48 PM.
#186
Holy **** I had that same case. How is it still in one piece? I lost all the little chrome doodads that hold the plexi on because the door is made of the thinnest sheet steel ever! Punched the front panel out plugging something in, temp display died with the cheap power supply it came with.
The terrible, terrible memories of those dumbass blue leds on the front. Something went wrong and the computer turned on mid-night to wake me up like vegas. I ripped the whole plexi front off in rage mode.
lol, good times
The terrible, terrible memories of those dumbass blue leds on the front. Something went wrong and the computer turned on mid-night to wake me up like vegas. I ripped the whole plexi front off in rage mode.
lol, good times
#187
It's been mostly sitting on the same desk I've had for years lol. My front plastic panel still snaps in place like new
To optimize my fans I covered the floppy disk opening with blue painters tape
Edit* Mine never came with blue leds, it had a red/yellow/blue led window fan though . And at one point it was all flashy with blue cold cathode tubes & 2 rear blue led transparent fans - That quickly ended.
On an older MB & CPU I had a 3 blade thermaltake tornado of death for a cpu cooler. It claimed many fingers.
To optimize my fans I covered the floppy disk opening with blue painters tape
Edit* Mine never came with blue leds, it had a red/yellow/blue led window fan though . And at one point it was all flashy with blue cold cathode tubes & 2 rear blue led transparent fans - That quickly ended.
On an older MB & CPU I had a 3 blade thermaltake tornado of death for a cpu cooler. It claimed many fingers.
Last edited by Girz0r; 01-19-2016 at 09:04 PM.
#188
New cpu installed, definitely gave my system a boost. Everything 'feels' snappy now, improved load times as well.
AMD Phenom II x6 1065t + Arctic mx-4 thermal compound + OEM Heatsink & Fan
& Current temps.
Specs wise, I have a lower max TDP. 800Mhz 'idle' & lower temps compared to my old Athlon II. The ability to boost up to 3.4Ghz when needed is a very nice feature
AMD Phenom II x6 1065t + Arctic mx-4 thermal compound + OEM Heatsink & Fan
& Current temps.
Specs wise, I have a lower max TDP. 800Mhz 'idle' & lower temps compared to my old Athlon II. The ability to boost up to 3.4Ghz when needed is a very nice feature
#194
My PC is getting old, but still runs all my games (Assetto Corsa, iRacing, Wreckfest, BeamNG Drive) quite reasonably. I will probably upgrade when I buy an Oculus Rift.
Specs I have now:
Core i5 750 overclocked to 3,3GHz with Scythe Mugen cooler
ASRock P55 Deluxe motherboard
8GB DDR3
GeForce GTX560Ti 2GB
480GB Crucial MX200 SSD
2TB Seagate HDD
Coolermaster M620 PSU (really old!)
Fractal Design Define R4 case
Logitech G27 Wheel
HP LP2475W Screen
5.1 Surround receiver w/ huge speakers
#198
I hear the oil is pita to work with & change out.
Looking up more info on my northbridge, 244F max temp concerns me - It's held down by plastic tabs. Anyone have experience with these? Do they just pop out? Twist?
I have a suspicion that my northbridge paste or thermal pad has been cooked to oblivion over the years. My Athlon II thermal paste was broken down pretty good when I swaped it out last night.
Looking up more info on my northbridge, 244F max temp concerns me - It's held down by plastic tabs. Anyone have experience with these? Do they just pop out? Twist?
I have a suspicion that my northbridge paste or thermal pad has been cooked to oblivion over the years. My Athlon II thermal paste was broken down pretty good when I swaped it out last night.
Last edited by Girz0r; 01-22-2016 at 10:40 AM.
#199
Yeah they should just pop out. look at the underside of the board, it should be a flared and you just have to squeeze it with pliers and it pops off.
Whats wrong with the 244f max temp or you mean you reach 244? Yeah thats crazy high. Theres a good chance it doesnt have thermal paste, it has that thick doublesided thermal tape that they put on ram chips. If you take it apart i recommend stretching the springs a bit as well to give it more pressure.
Whats wrong with the 244f max temp or you mean you reach 244? Yeah thats crazy high. Theres a good chance it doesnt have thermal paste, it has that thick doublesided thermal tape that they put on ram chips. If you take it apart i recommend stretching the springs a bit as well to give it more pressure.
#200
Boost Pope
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,076
Total Cats: 6,628
Why would you need to change it out? We leave the oil inside electrical transformers there for the life of the transformer, which can be 100+ years in some (rare) cases. If it gets dirty / dusty, you can pump it through a filter.
But agreed that it's messy. Use 3M Fluorinert instead.
I can't see quite enough detail. You'll be able to tell more from looking at the underside.
Many of them are of a two-piece construction, where the center pin just pops out like the fasteners used to hold the fender liners in the Miata.
Some are one-piece, and can be pushed out from the back by compressing the three/four tines at the end.
Relatively few screw in, and these usually have something like a screw head on the top so that a screwdriver can be applied.
But agreed that it's messy. Use 3M Fluorinert instead.
Many of them are of a two-piece construction, where the center pin just pops out like the fasteners used to hold the fender liners in the Miata.
Some are one-piece, and can be pushed out from the back by compressing the three/four tines at the end.
Relatively few screw in, and these usually have something like a screw head on the top so that a screwdriver can be applied.