the crank and cam polarity aren't matching. the crank is falling where the cam is rising

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...38dbcf96f1.png


change the cam polarity from inverted to normal. then it should sync.

so you don't think that I should adjust the pots anymore?

Nope. First do the software change. If needed, then adjust. Thank goodness brain showed up.

Changed back to normal instead of inverted and still no start with various spark. I adjusted r56, r11, and r32. Brain I really need your help.

EDIT: also while cranking my "RPM not synced" goes away and "cranking" goes green but flickers along with other things like WUE.

@Braineack

Should I be using the 1.8 firing order? I'm not sure exactly how you wired it out of the MS

your tune was still set to batch injection. have you fired you injection harness to seq.? if not and you're still using the oe injector harness, then that should be okay.

now that you're syncing, a normal datalog during cranking will help better to actually get it running.

Yes I'm using the factory harness with no change. I have a submitted my log after turning the pots above^ but here it is again

Should I be using the 1.6 firing order with the plug wires?

EDIT: reread your post and didn't see that you said normal datalog, will take then re post

@Braineack

Here's a attempted start.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6490b4c74e.png
This is a screenshot of while it was cranking if that helps, how come there is no green "cranking" button over to the left? Cranking appears and then flashes ASE and WUE like it started then goes back to cranking

Are you still using the NA6 coil-packs? If so you need to follow the firing order for them. b6 and bp have the same firing order but the coils are reversed. Easy way to double check is to use the spark test mode and see which coil is coil A. Then just plug those leads onto cyl 1 & 4.

https://www.miata.net/garage/images/TBELT11.JPG

Cranking is not on likely because you have gone over the threshold rpm for cranking which is usually 300 rpm. You are at 336 in the screenshot.

It appears you have sync of the ignition signals. A screenshot of the composite logger would be nice.

It is likely now something to do with connections of coils and injectors as you have alluded to before.

Yeah lol I figured that out after getting nothing but spinning on the 1.8 order and not my odd "wanting to start" when on the 1.6

​​​​​​Okay I can upload one when I get home, its the same as the most recent ones just with the cam set to normal like Brain said to do.

All of my injector connections and coils connections are stock.

Hey so I just did a test to see if my spark plugs are firing!!! Only the first cylinders 1 and 2 are firing. When I test coil A its #1 and coil B is #2... what would cause this? Doesn't coil A fire 1 and 3 and B is 2 and 4??

EDIT: NVM! I lied, I don't know what I did wrong, maybe they moved some and didn't ground but either way they are all fire now and I remember now that it's 1-4 and 2-3. I was really hoping it was that and a simple fix:giggle:

are you getting fuel? do you have the fuel pump jumper on your afm connector?

yes and yes. I can smell the fuel, I think it kinda might be backfiring but I can't tell.

Anyone have any idea? This is my daily so I've been kinda in a tight spot

Help us help you.

Datalog of an attempted start (screenshot be nice too) and another attachment with your most recent tune.

Composite log screenshot of attempted start.

A video of attempted start. In lieu of that, an extremely detailed description of the attempted start.

There are basic things an engine needs to start: compression, fuel, spark. Then there are somewhat advanced things: timing (ignition and spark), strength of spark/condition of plugs, vacuum leaks, etc. Then there are advanced things like what could be hiding in your tune such as starting parameters.

Your wish is my command. I read a thread that you and Brain contributed to in 2014 about this guy having weird start-ups and needing changes to his start up settings so I have played with my tune a tad but haven't had the chance to test. I will take a video with description tomorrow.

The attachments are fubar'd. Nothing but text for msl and msq.

You are getting injector pulse, and MAP is going down so the engine seems healthy enough mechanically.

Check the basics as far as compression and cam timing still. Since this is a swap, who knows what the previous owner did to the engine before you got it.

Take out plugs. Might be so wet from fuel that they won't start the car.

I can't say it will do much good but it can't hurt to raise cranking rpm to 500 since you are cranking in the 400 range. Raise cranking dwell to 7.5ms from the 6ms I saw in the screenshot in the first page.

Have you set ignition offset? It's at 5* on the screenshot on the first page?