1.8L 99 Miata 250WHP help
09-26-2016, 09:00 PM
#21
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And i really appreciate the help from you and all the others that have been contributing as well.
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09-26-2016, 09:14 PM
#22
Has anyone told this dude to read a bunch of builds? If not, BRO, I am not exaggerating when I say that you are six months of reading away from your first dollar spent. Do not build your own ms3. Do not build your own ms3.
You said budget is ok, so buy the ms3..in six months.
You said budget is ok, so buy the ms3..in six months.
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And yes i do need to read more about it.
09-26-2016, 11:25 PM
#25
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Time to read more about pistons and rods xD
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09-27-2016, 08:16 AM
#27
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yea I got a great deal on my miata $2000 with 130k miles I knew it was going to be a pretty penny to be almost near double the hp it makes stock. My dad had a ls1 at his work and I should have taken it... it was rebuilt with 80k miles for $500
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09-27-2016, 11:24 AM
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Okay, so I did some reading on the first step to my project, the megasquirt. Should I setup the sequential injector and spark first before all other aspects of the turboing of the miata. Or should I add that later on in the build. In other words is it necessary to do first.
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09-27-2016, 11:28 AM
#32
Do more reading. You're still asking really green questions.
But I'll throw you a bone: yes. if you're building your own ms, you want EVERYTHING because it's silly and pointless to have to go back in later to add features and functions.
You want ms3x, you want seq fuel and spark (because reasons), you want ebc, you want other things too depending on what your goals are. You want to build the unit, install it with a wideband, and REALLY learn how to make it work properly and tune your car properly. that takes a long time for a 1st time user. after that, you're ready to consider other mods.
But I'll throw you a bone: yes. if you're building your own ms, you want EVERYTHING because it's silly and pointless to have to go back in later to add features and functions.
You want ms3x, you want seq fuel and spark (because reasons), you want ebc, you want other things too depending on what your goals are. You want to build the unit, install it with a wideband, and REALLY learn how to make it work properly and tune your car properly. that takes a long time for a 1st time user. after that, you're ready to consider other mods.
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09-27-2016, 02:05 PM
#33
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really really really
spend a lot of time in the build threads section. You really need to read through a bunch of builds.
If you're doing daily driving and you're really good with <300 whp then you really don't need to do anything other than stock pistons. Just know that you have to be that much more careful when tuning. My car has forged pistons and I'd happily daily it as far as the engine is concerned, but stock pistons are easy and cheap. All of this advice is very well documented. You really just need to spend a lot more time reading through build threads and such on here. It will serve you MUCH better than just getting answers to questions, because you'll see and understand the WHY.
spend a lot of time in the build threads section. You really need to read through a bunch of builds.
If you're doing daily driving and you're really good with <300 whp then you really don't need to do anything other than stock pistons. Just know that you have to be that much more careful when tuning. My car has forged pistons and I'd happily daily it as far as the engine is concerned, but stock pistons are easy and cheap. All of this advice is very well documented. You really just need to spend a lot more time reading through build threads and such on here. It will serve you MUCH better than just getting answers to questions, because you'll see and understand the WHY.
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10-04-2016, 03:48 PM
#34
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So, I decided to do a compression test (ill do a leak down test later it started pouring cause, Florida...) and here are my results... https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
made it fancy and put it in a spreadsheet
. And when you take a look at that you'll see that cylinder 1 & 3 have much higher values, the reason is because there is a lot of oil in that cylinder so its acting as a wet test. But, as for 2 & 4 I didn't see much of any oil on the plugs other than dried up oil (gunk). Keep in mind this car has 133k miles. Are those values,for my mileage and everything, decent? Also here is a picture of my spark plugs, they were pretty nasty, a lot of gunk and what appears to be bits of sand. In the picture I layed them out in order starting from the left. also i just changed the oil about 1 month ago so they shouldn't be this dirty right?
made it fancy and put it in a spreadsheet
. And when you take a look at that you'll see that cylinder 1 & 3 have much higher values, the reason is because there is a lot of oil in that cylinder so its acting as a wet test. But, as for 2 & 4 I didn't see much of any oil on the plugs other than dried up oil (gunk). Keep in mind this car has 133k miles. Are those values,for my mileage and everything, decent? Also here is a picture of my spark plugs, they were pretty nasty, a lot of gunk and what appears to be bits of sand. In the picture I layed them out in order starting from the left. also i just changed the oil about 1 month ago so they shouldn't be this dirty right?
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10-04-2016, 03:55 PM
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Oil changes have absolutely nothing to do with spark plug cleanliness. The picture posted shows well, just about every part of the plug that doesn't matter, and yet obscures the one part we need to see: the electrode, ground strap and insulator. The sand may be just that, from inside the plug well in the head and valve cover. You should really blast them out with compressed air after you've removed the plug wires, but before you remove the plugs to blow out any dirt or loose debris so it doesn't get in your motor. It also looks like you VC is leaking into all the plug holes, or someone missed the oil filler and it oil spilled into the center valley of the VC and then into the plug wells.
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10-04-2016, 04:06 PM
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Oil changes have absolutely nothing to do with spark plug cleanliness. The picture posted shows well, just about every part of the plug that doesn't matter, and yet obscures the one part we need to see: the electrode, ground strap and insulator. The sand may be just that, from inside the plug well in the head and valve cover. You should really blast them out with compressed air after you've removed the plug wires, but before you remove the plugs to blow out any dirt or loose debris so it doesn't get in your motor. It also looks like you VC is leaking into all the plug holes, or someone missed the oil filler and it oil spilled into the center valley of the VC and then into the plug wells.
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10-04-2016, 04:08 PM
#38
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Plugs are already a out, its too late to blow the wells out. And if you do It know with no plugs installed, youll just blow even more **** into the engine via the plug holes. SSTTAAHHPPPP!!!!
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10-04-2016, 04:21 PM
#39
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