1.8L 99 Miata 250WHP help
#48
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Thats how you take a picture of a plug. Coloration looks fine from what i can tell, the electrode looks like it has some(a *** load) miles on it though. Theyre cheap, just replace them.
btw, my humor is dry, I was returning it to you.
btw, my humor is dry, I was returning it to you.
#49
#50
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Might as well do sequential spark and get this kit for the MS3X. Fab9Tuning Plug & Play Coil-On-Plug Conversion Kit - Fab9Tuning
nonononono, run like hell from that kit. D585 coils. If you need a bracket and wires, I sell them.
#52
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Go read some threads about it. It doesn't seem to like to play well with MS3. For some people it works well, for others it doesn't.
The LS coils are a known good kit. You can buy the brackets from SADfab, thebandit, or several other places.
The LS coils are a known good kit. You can buy the brackets from SADfab, thebandit, or several other places.
#53
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I know a few people who have had them and they just dont hold up, and IIRC they require special spark plugs. Im also of the opinion that they're a little expensive considering how they compare to the D585s, but it is a complete kit and they are idiot proof.
#54
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The only people on earth I would recommend Fab9 cops to are 99/00 miata's that keep blowing stock coil packs, and are sticking with stock ECU. Otherwise the LS coils are the new goto solution. Reasonably priced now with several bracket manufactures on the market.
#57
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OP, you've been quiet for a bit. What have you been reading?
You should read the thread I started a bit ago. I asked similar questions, but I was much further along in my research than you were.
https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...u-think-90818/
As a side note: I'd likely caution you to go under 250, i.e. in the 220-230 range if you want to keep things stock and safe. The fact that you're asking so many questions means that you're probably not going to be able to do something like rods without some help. If you make miata friends that are willing to help you along the way, then go for it, but I think you'd be better off getting something that you can run at 220-230 and build another block with rods and maybe pistons if you want. From what I've read, the rods are the weak point, but if I was going through the hassle of doing everything anyway, I'd likely just overbuild.
That said, as you start getting from 250->300, you're going to have to be way more invested into cooling etc since that can start to be an issue. It also really exposes any weak spots in your build. Stock 5 speed transmissions aren't going to last long at 300. And 6 speeds have meh gearing. Folks are looking for other transmission swap options, or you can do the 6 speed coupled with a 3.9 torsen or aftermarket gear ratio setup. I don't know too much about that last bit, but I know that it's going to be annoying to drive a 300 hp car with the gearing that my car has right now, which is a 5 speed with a 4.3 diff.
That rabbit hole is very expensive.
I also think that a lot of builds get abandoned because people with less know how than money get in over their head and can't solve problems that come up along the way. Frankly, I wouldn't be doing this if I didn't have help. I'm also keeping it relatively simple.
Definitely listen to what others have told you about building.
Step 1: Do any maintenance that needs to be done.
Step 2: Get the car running well on the megasquirt.
Step 3: Install larger injectors and tune and get it running well.
Step 4: Now that you know the car can idle well on stock injectors, it's time to add boost.
The process takes a few months to get to step 4. If you have all the parts, you can probably install the turbo in a weekend and have it running reasonably well in another day or so. At that point, I'd probably want to limit boost and keep tuning and adding boost a little at a time to see how things react and get a feel for driving the car.
You're on the right track and folks are being super nice to you here. Kudos for reading over the last couple of months instead of asking more and more questions!
You should read the thread I started a bit ago. I asked similar questions, but I was much further along in my research than you were.
https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...u-think-90818/
As a side note: I'd likely caution you to go under 250, i.e. in the 220-230 range if you want to keep things stock and safe. The fact that you're asking so many questions means that you're probably not going to be able to do something like rods without some help. If you make miata friends that are willing to help you along the way, then go for it, but I think you'd be better off getting something that you can run at 220-230 and build another block with rods and maybe pistons if you want. From what I've read, the rods are the weak point, but if I was going through the hassle of doing everything anyway, I'd likely just overbuild.
That said, as you start getting from 250->300, you're going to have to be way more invested into cooling etc since that can start to be an issue. It also really exposes any weak spots in your build. Stock 5 speed transmissions aren't going to last long at 300. And 6 speeds have meh gearing. Folks are looking for other transmission swap options, or you can do the 6 speed coupled with a 3.9 torsen or aftermarket gear ratio setup. I don't know too much about that last bit, but I know that it's going to be annoying to drive a 300 hp car with the gearing that my car has right now, which is a 5 speed with a 4.3 diff.
That rabbit hole is very expensive.
I also think that a lot of builds get abandoned because people with less know how than money get in over their head and can't solve problems that come up along the way. Frankly, I wouldn't be doing this if I didn't have help. I'm also keeping it relatively simple.
Definitely listen to what others have told you about building.
Step 1: Do any maintenance that needs to be done.
Step 2: Get the car running well on the megasquirt.
Step 3: Install larger injectors and tune and get it running well.
Step 4: Now that you know the car can idle well on stock injectors, it's time to add boost.
The process takes a few months to get to step 4. If you have all the parts, you can probably install the turbo in a weekend and have it running reasonably well in another day or so. At that point, I'd probably want to limit boost and keep tuning and adding boost a little at a time to see how things react and get a feel for driving the car.
You're on the right track and folks are being super nice to you here. Kudos for reading over the last couple of months instead of asking more and more questions!
Last edited by ridethecliche; 12-10-2016 at 12:30 PM.
#58
Yea, ive been busy, but still reading. I am going to get the MS3x soon as my next job is in line (HHgregg is getting shitty for Electronic sales reps). Also I got a great deal on repaint, rust removal and body modifications I couldn't pass up so back to saving. You have to look fast before you are fast, right? xD
Anyways thanks for the thread ill definitely take a look, and as well I did read on some articles saying 230whp is a safe point to be at with a 5speed and stock internals. Ill update soon after I get my MS3x and start tinkering with it hahah.
Anyways thanks for the thread ill definitely take a look, and as well I did read on some articles saying 230whp is a safe point to be at with a 5speed and stock internals. Ill update soon after I get my MS3x and start tinkering with it hahah.
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