His rational is not flawed. The object is to make the most power at the lowest boost setting. The lower the boost, the lower the under hood temps.
Stephanie

 

Why not leave the RB muffler and just replace the mid pipe? I thought she had an aftermarket mid pipe, sorry.

The turbo not hitting target boost until 4500 rpm is classic MSM ECU programming. That is when the stock ECU send the car open loop. Most people say that an O2 modifier will help, but I have heard from many that it did nothing also. Mostly you need an Xede or Hydra to fix that problem.
Stephanie

 

******* DUHHH!! You love to argue with me. Bottom line and you know this, (and is what I've been saying) If he adds an intake and IC, he will get more power (as proven by dyno's), at 10.5 PSI, and will have no heat issues, and intake temps will not be any higher with these recommended upgrade (which you also recommend) than it would be at 7.5 PSI on the stock components. Yes, I know lower boost produces less heat, but I, and you also know that you can reduce the heat produced by the increased boost with aftermaket parts as discussed in this thread.

 

the 2.5" moves enough air?

If her car weren't so clean I'd tell her to just get an NA and drop it off at your shop.

She and I will talk about this tonight.

 

Take this FWIW, because I'm not too familiar with MSM's...

I'd take msydnor's advice on getting a bigger IC. I mean seriously, if you're worried about OVERHEATING at the track, then perhaps replacing the small factory heat exchangers with more efficient ones will help? I would think so. And it's HP to boot.

 

how is a big intercooler in front of the radiator going to make the water in the motor cooler?

 

I said on the first page that we didn't want to do that. Its a daily driver that goes to the track. She just wants it to be more fun and would love to have a second or two on the track. We're not worried about overheating on the track because we're not doing a ground-up build on the car.

This **** is not complicated. The thread is dead. The thread is dead.

 

Less total heat going into the engine. You worry WAYYYY to much about ****. Like seriously. Replace the factory IC, and whatever other **** is known to be the very first weak link. (like some tube mentioned and a shitty valve) You make this sound 1000x more complicated than it really is.

 

What is so hard to understand about this? The car is like clockwork...you can drive it 5-hours to the track, beat the **** out of it and hang the tach in the red 4 hours over two days, then turn the AC on and drive home another 5-hours every time.

I don't think its reasonable to believe that adding a bigger intercooler will lower water temps...lets see some before and after data-logs. I think blocking the air in front of the radiator makes it run hotter, just ask anyone who tracks theirs on this forum.

I don't worry about this too much. I've already stated that the stock radiator is insufficient in NB's, in a stock car. I know this because I've overheated 1 car myself, and another friend when I was riding. A stock radiator is insufficient to cool a 200whp miata, because its borderline in a 120whp miata.


Put your car at full throttle from 4k-7k rpm for 30 minutes, ducked behind another car half the time, I promise you it will overheat. Putting a car on the racetrack pushes it exponentially further than the daily driver crew. I say this because my experience supports it. I want to spend my days at the track in the driver's seat, not under the car trying to get on track for the next session or looking for someone to tow it home.

The boost will not be raised, only exhaust or intake pipes will be bolted on period. This is a reasonable, and I condemn all objectors to Auschwitz.

 

That was in your original post. An IC fits this perfect. Also is cheap and simple etc. That's why I said get one.

There are MSM people here that have a fuckload more background on MSM's than you or I. It would be wise to listen to them IMO.

 

troll-*** is trolling.

 

The stock MSM intercooler is a decent piece, function wise. Looks, no. But it works well for what it is designed for. Yes, changing it out will help, but until you start heavily modifying the car, it is not a NEEDED upgrade. It cools the charge air and still leaves plenty of air flow to the radiator.

BTW - The MSM radiator core is slightly thicker than an NB one.
Stephanie

 

For the record, there are plenty of people that track their MSMs with larger intercoolers and stock radiators with no issues. But, upgrading the radiator is not a bad idea, just a little added insurance. On the IC, I'm not saying it will lower water temps, just intake charge temps, which will help with the overall unerhood and engine temps. On the boost issue, I wasn't insisting you turn it up, just letting you know you can with no issues. I've been running 11 PSI for a over two years with no issues. I don't track the car, but I drive the **** out of it on some pretty long wining back country roads.

 

The 2.5 moves enough air because the factory turbo is pretty small and limited anyway. Not only that, since you plan to stay at factory boost, you definately wont benefit from the 3 inch, just spend more money

 

Man, you KNOW none of the MiataTurbo HARDXCORE LOLOLOLOL guys will listen to us ------y Mazdaspeed owners, we are the ***-pillaging, ****-loving village people of these forums.

But srsly, ebay interfooler, manual boost controller, intake along with an O2 mod, 3'' exhaust from the turbo-back, a GOOD PCV, and some nice tires will transform that stock turbocar into something a bit more presentable.

 

you losers are gay as ****...and why do you all have the same color cars?

 

And why haven't you posted nudes of your sister yet?

 

+1

 

Why would he have nudes of his sister? johndoe, Fireindc. What kind of family did you guys grow up in? Nude photos of girlfriend, maybe. Nudes of Ex-girlfriend, definitely.

 

!!!!!!

Hustler, be a bro and lets see some nudes of your sis.

Vash-