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Colder Plugs before FI

Old May 12, 2011 | 11:17 AM
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Default Colder Plugs before FI

So, I couldn't really find what I wanted but if you have a link, I'd appreciate it. What are the downsides to switching to a colder spark plug without forced induction?

I'm considering building my engine this summer and postponing FI until next year. With that, any threads you know off-hand on building engines would be great too...
Old May 12, 2011 | 11:30 AM
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plugs are so cheap, there's no point to changing them now.

you want to run the hottest plug you can get away with.
Old May 12, 2011 | 12:22 PM
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Priorities are a little backward, IMO.

FI, then colder plugs, if you need them. I took my BKR6Es to 14 psi and dynoed on them. But I run 7s now, as a safety measure.

FI, then build. If you build first you're so going to be tempted to crank the boost into the 20s and make killer power. I say you turbo to around 230 hp and then decide if you need to make the leap to a built engine.

$0.02
Old May 12, 2011 | 12:25 PM
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It's one thing to do, say a clutch job 1st. Plugs take all of 15 minutes to change.
Old May 12, 2011 | 12:25 PM
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Well then, it appears I have an oil leak around my valve cover gasket, so I was going to replace that and maybe tinker with other parts in there/ see what I could modify/upgrade while I was in there.

Speaking of valve cover gaskets, is there anything else I should be checking if that gasket is leaking?
Old May 12, 2011 | 01:05 PM
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CAS O-ring.
Old May 12, 2011 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Bryce
CAS O-ring.
CAS? I'm not familiar with all the acronyms yet.
Old May 12, 2011 | 01:17 PM
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Close Air Support, or Camshaft Angle Sensor.

It's one or the other.
Old May 12, 2011 | 01:19 PM
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CAS = Cam Angle Sensor. It's the small distributor-like device sticking out of the back of the head on the intake cam ('90-'93) or the exhaust cam ('94-'97). '99 and later cars did not have one, although they still had the hole for it (again, just behind the exhaust cam) which is filled with a little plastic cap. On these cars, the gasket is integral to the cap, and it's not particularly common for it to leak oil.
Old May 12, 2011 | 01:28 PM
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If you are looking to do a cheap modification, bring your timing up from the stock 10* to 16*. You will feel a slight increase in performance.

Something else you can do to get a little more umph is to go ahead and do a lightened flywheel and clutch. It will make your car accelerate harder, and be compatable with other mods later.

Take Kotomile's advice, and do a basic turbo first, learn, then see how far you want to take it. You may never need to build that motor.
Old May 12, 2011 | 02:05 PM
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This is my primary concern, atm. Can anybody tell me what part I am looking for to replace the seal in the middle picture?






Last edited by gjenks; May 12, 2011 at 05:31 PM.
Old May 15, 2011 | 10:40 AM
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Valve cover gasket and PCV grommet
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