elesjuan

iTrader: (11)

I wish there was a way to disable inverted spark. lol

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

I dunno - I think I have mine set up the same as everyone else, but mine doesn't hold the spark high while flashing. I use the LED's in the front to drive the spark, but "Normal - Going Low" is the selection that works. The other way my coils get hot and the timing is weird. I know my output acts like an inverter, but what I don't see is how everyone else has it backwards from me.

Weirdness.

And of course, new year's day. No coil hunting for me. I should just bite the bullet, at $100 to my budget (since that's what salvaged miata coils from FM would cost to "hold me over" till I find a deal on a set of COP, and get something ASAP.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ayphotohosting

Did I post that yet? It sure is tempting....

paul

iTrader: (21)

the first auction you listed with the part number 90080-19023 is confirmed to work according to the COP FAQ in the archives. looks like the guy only has 1 though. here is another auction with 3 of them http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-4-T...sid=p1638.m118

good luck

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

car-part.com

Zabac

iTrader: (39)

amen

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Nice spot there on the 3 coils. Of course, there's a huge "emergency" weather pattern rolling in, it would be awesome to have my car back.

There's a place here with 4 for $100. Might be worth the extra $20 to have it today.

I haven't been able to find this faq. :-(

paul

iTrader: (21)

its in my signature for easy access as is the turbo faq

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Man! Tell me that wasn't there before. Sometimes I'm a huge clueless bastard. :-)


Anyway, this is even worse. $65 for a set get here wed, or $100+tax+drive across down for them tomorrow?

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Well, for anyone looking to upgrade to toyo COP, this guy in MO or something will do a set of 4 for $65 shipped to anywhere the US. If interested let me know.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

That's so WEIRD. The COPS I got, and the connectors, have a big fat black/red wire for "ground" and a thin white/black for "+12" according to your pin out. That seems weird. The miata harness has a thick black for ground and a thin black/white for power.

I guess it's possibly you've all been running them reverse biased, but it seems unlikely.


One other thing I noticed: looking down the business end of the coil, there's just a spring. What sort of plugs do I want to run? I assume the "big tops" not the little threaded rod that some cables use. But you know the plugs that come with a thread on nut to make the tops bigger? I'm assuming I'd want to leave that on?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

thicker ground makes sense.

no one here is doing anything special to make contact, it should be long enough. if you don't think it's long enough, remove the rubber gasket.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Yeah - but then I'd be doing it backward from everyone else. Maybe if I put on the old thinking cap I could figure out which pins SHOULD be gnd, cause from the wires, the right hand one would be ground. Maybe they figure there's already an excelent ground in the bolt hole.

I was going to leave that plate off, but I don't think they'd stay on, and I'm sure it needs the ground. Now I gotta go shopping. :-(

Oh, and I think I lost one rubber o-ring. wtf! I thought I had that.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Ok, after TONS of searching, I just decided to try it. Plugging it in backwards from how you have it fails miserably - in fact, it arcs when I plug in the power, I mean, the power lines arc.

Plug it in the way you say and... holy cow, those are hot sparks. They go everywhere! It's shocking.

Also, just firing them without plugging them in (spark plug in it and laying on the motor) makes all the solenoids in the car go batty. :-P Eeeeek. When it's all grounded nice, it seems to work well.

But now I'm not getting a constant cam/crank signal. Like it used to be when I was on rising edge, but rising edge is no better. I can only assume it's the resistor I jumped, which I guess I'll unjump.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

OH MY ******* GOD!

Yeah - so like, I get good sync on the motor, except with the plugs/coils installed.

I can run the coils on top of the valve cover, with a plug in each one, and an alligator clip gounding them to the head. But if I install everything, FAIL.

And in case it was a motor speed thing, I tried unplugging the coils. That also lets me sync.

But with the motor "ready to go" I get no sync on my MS.

I can only imagine it's a grounding issue, but WHAT THE HELL?

Before I tried grounding the plugs to the head instead of the harness' ground wire, but it didn't help then, not sure it would help now.


Has anyone else seen this???

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

I haven't seen anything like that on my MSI.

I think i remember reading something about Reverant saying he is using a firmware so he can resync with a switch he installed because he was having intermittent trouble with his MSI.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

I'm pretty convinced its either a lack of 12 volt feed, a lack of enough ground (very unlikely), or lots of general noise.

The switched 12V does come in on only one pin. Maybe that pin sucks. I guess I could try running a wire directly. Unplugging the WBO2 will cut draw some as well.


But I was wondering (hence the post in this thread) if other people had weird issues after going to toyota COP. More noise, etc.

The fact it gets weird only when the plugs are in the block makes me think it IS noise.


<edit> I have heard of people moving the ground to the back of the motor, away from the front where the OEM location is.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Geez. I thought part of the reason for going COPs just as a moot point was the reduced noise because you didn't have the plug wires anymore. Strange that it would be causing noise issues.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Can't say for sure that was the issue, some filter caps in my inputs cleaned things up. I would say in general the car needs more grounds.

Anyway, I made a plate much like Braineak's write up would have you do, but since I'm a one tool kinda guy, I thought I didn't want nuts and such, so I have a "flat bottom" tapped plate. It still needs some adjusting, and since the tolerances are much tighter on tapped holes than thru holes, It's a bit of a pain to get together, but I'm happy with it. As soon as I buy me a 65mm M6x1, and maybe a spacer/washer for it (between coil and plate) I'd say it's done.

If there's some interest, I'll try to either make up a parts list and a better drawing, or check into getting them made and try to put together some sort of COP kit where everything lines up perfect, fits right, and is shiney and plugs right into your harness.

But, maybe I won't.

http://abefm.smugmug.com/gallery/4147323#242055206
Pics. This is "engineering model" grade, mind you.