Differences on Mazdaspeed miatas vs the normal ones
#22
I never really looked too much into the BNR upgraded turbos. I understand that they are probably not the best option but does anyone know how well they spool and perform. Would not be a bad path for someone who doesn't want to have to change out the manifold and downpipe. The prices are decent if they perform well considering it would be a pretty much new turbo and you would not need to use new fittings or anything.
#23
I heard that there are ppl out there that have hit 250 wtq on an msm turbo on e85. If you need more power than a stock block will live comfortably at, might as well look elsewhere anyway. The stock turbos aren't that bad tuned properly, doesn't spool with a garret, but they do pretty well.... And you actually can get pretty far w/ rx8 injectors on e85 if you're ok w/ way over recommended duty cycles, lol.
#26
I agree with all the posters who said a full ECU is better than the BEGI reflash. But that's because my definition of "better" means something that I can tweak. What's nice about the BEGI reflash, according to a few people I know who have it, is that you get a tune in line with what Mazda "should have" delivered from the factory -- while retaining OBDII -- and you don't have all the constant ECU tuning conundrums.
However, there are two band-aides that work wonders for an MSM, especially one with an aftermarket intake and turboback: 1., O2 clamp (FM or OlderGuy); 2. replacing the stock boost solenoid with an aftermarket Bosch unit (the solenoid is the root of the infamous MSM "bog" -- the aftermarket solenoid doesn't have that problem and switches faster into closed loop.)
But I have to confess that what I like best about my MSM is the styling. A lot of people are surprised when they ask me what it is and I say it's a Miata. A lot of people also assume it's been lowered, that I have a body kit, that the metallic flake paint is custom, and that the wheels (albeit heavy) are also aftermarket Nope -- that's all bone-stock.
However, there are two band-aides that work wonders for an MSM, especially one with an aftermarket intake and turboback: 1., O2 clamp (FM or OlderGuy); 2. replacing the stock boost solenoid with an aftermarket Bosch unit (the solenoid is the root of the infamous MSM "bog" -- the aftermarket solenoid doesn't have that problem and switches faster into closed loop.)
But I have to confess that what I like best about my MSM is the styling. A lot of people are surprised when they ask me what it is and I say it's a Miata. A lot of people also assume it's been lowered, that I have a body kit, that the metallic flake paint is custom, and that the wheels (albeit heavy) are also aftermarket Nope -- that's all bone-stock.
#28
Noooo, I didn't mean the boost controller. Just because I bought an MSM ("Miata turbo for dummies") doesn't mean I am that clueless.
I'm talking about one specific solenoid in the MSM hose layout which is responsible for that car's notorious "bog" problem.
BTW, as for the boost * controller *, the stock unit is electronic. But that is a whole different subject.
I'm talking about one specific solenoid in the MSM hose layout which is responsible for that car's notorious "bog" problem.
BTW, as for the boost * controller *, the stock unit is electronic. But that is a whole different subject.
#29
The boost solenoid has nothing to do with the bog. It is the ecu. The solenoid is just an electronic valve that is completely controlled by the ecu. I have an MSM and i have replaced the stock boost solenoid with an mbc and that alone makes no difference. The only thing besides an O2 signal modifier that seems to be effective while retaining the stock ecu is moving the MAF just before the throttle body instead of pre turbo.
#30
The boost solenoid has nothing to do with the bog. It is the ecu. The solenoid is just an electronic valve that is completely controlled by the ecu. I have an MSM and i have replaced the stock boost solenoid with an mbc and that alone makes no difference. The only thing besides an O2 signal modifier that seems to be effective while retaining the stock ecu is moving the MAF just before the throttle body instead of pre turbo.
Maybe I'm technically incorrect to call it the "boost" solenoid, but the one I'm talking about is NOT the ebc. Whole different thing.
I'm talking about this: Avoiding the BOG - Solenoid Valve cleaning and maintenance
Here's the thread discussing the aftermarket part: http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/in...c,14858.0.html
Granted, the MSM ECU tune stinks, but years of MSM owners' real-world driving resulted in the finding that the solenoid in question can simply be replaced cleaned and/or replaced by a better one, thereby solving that particular problem. The ECU acting weird and "causing" the infamous MSM bog is a * symptom * of the problem.
O2 signal mod, while effective on an MSM, has NOTHING to do with the MSM bog problem. Ryan G hasn't done his homework. O2 clamp as MT folks know is related to switching from open loop to closed and not having the car pull fuel when there's more air coming through the intake than the stock computer expects to see.
Moving MAF = nutty talk.
#31
We may be talking about two entirely different things. Moving the MAF will help with the hesitation that the MSM experiences before 5K. It changes the way the ecu is reading air flow by putting it post turbo so it reads boost. This smooths the transition from no power to ALLOFIT after 5k. There is a whole kit to do this on that same site designed by Joe Mazda. I have it on mine and it does indeed work.
#32
We may be talking about two entirely different things. Moving the MAF will help with the hesitation that the MSM experiences before 5K. It changes the way the ecu is reading air flow by putting it post turbo so it reads boost. This smooths the transition from no power to ALLOFIT after 5k. There is a whole kit to do this on that same site designed by Joe Mazda. I have it on mine and it does indeed work.
and instead of dicking with all this stupid band aid mumbo jumbo, lets all just agree that replacing the stock ECU and bcs with proper aftermarket units is the REAL fix to all the bog problems.
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