Dyno-Re-tune results
#61
im paying $95 for a 5 gal pale. So like $18-$19 a gallon.
yeah i agree that i need more low/mid power. When i built the motor i didnt think it would be an issue. But after my 1st event i realized that i was wrong. I dont wanna be shifting all the time to keep it in the power band. This is why i have the nitrous coming to give it a big boost down low.
yeah i agree that i need more low/mid power. When i built the motor i didnt think it would be an issue. But after my 1st event i realized that i was wrong. I dont wanna be shifting all the time to keep it in the power band. This is why i have the nitrous coming to give it a big boost down low.
I have no idea how to tune nitrous with turbo but I actually had the set up for it. Never tried running it I wanted a progressive controller. Nitrous is amazing for building boost though
When do you think the new setup will be ready and we can see some sexy plots?
#62
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Well i went for a test drive with the nitrous today. 45 shot, running a bit rich, im not sure if i should mess with it, could be the hot and humid weather. Also my boost seemed a little low, this may be due to less load then dyno? or weather. Im shutting the nitrous off at 15psi, the tank pressure was a little low 750psi. I NEED A BOTTLE HEATER.
#63
750 is indeed too low.
The safest and fastest way to heat a bottle is to put a gauge on the bottle with a cap on the outlet. You will be able to turn the bottle on and get a pressure reading. You will need some hot water and a bucket.
Have fun!
The safest and fastest way to heat a bottle is to put a gauge on the bottle with a cap on the outlet. You will be able to turn the bottle on and get a pressure reading. You will need some hot water and a bucket.
- Heat some water in a kettle.
- Put your bottle into a bucket.
- With gauge attached and outlet capped, open bottle
- Pour hot water over bottle and into bucket.
- Watch your gauge. When you get to the desired pressure, pull the bottle out of the bucket.
- Reinstall bottle into car and you are ready.
Have fun!
#64
750 is indeed too low.
The safest and fastest way to heat a bottle is to put a gauge on the bottle with a cap on the outlet. You will be able to turn the bottle on and get a pressure reading. You will need some hot water and a bucket.
Have fun!
The safest and fastest way to heat a bottle is to put a gauge on the bottle with a cap on the outlet. You will be able to turn the bottle on and get a pressure reading. You will need some hot water and a bucket.
- Heat some water in a kettle.
- Put your bottle into a bucket.
- With gauge attached and outlet capped, open bottle
- Pour hot water over bottle and into bucket.
- Watch your gauge. When you get to the desired pressure, pull the bottle out of the bucket.
- Reinstall bottle into car and you are ready.
Have fun!
#66
In all seriousness though, an electric bottle blanket works a bit expensive though.
#69
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Its the Zex Turbo Wet kit.
Come with everything a standard wet kit for EFI comes with, but adds in a boost sensing deactivation switch.
So it runs a power and ground for the solenoids, and taps into you TPS signal wire. So you program the solenoid box to trigger at WOT and then adjust the Boost switch to deactivate at what ever boost you want. Mine is set to 15psi.
If you wanted to add in another safety feature. You could use a RPM window switch in the TPS line so you could only activate above 3000rpm @ WOT and under a specified PSI
AND FOR PEOPLE WANTING ACTION SHOTS !!!!
Come with everything a standard wet kit for EFI comes with, but adds in a boost sensing deactivation switch.
So it runs a power and ground for the solenoids, and taps into you TPS signal wire. So you program the solenoid box to trigger at WOT and then adjust the Boost switch to deactivate at what ever boost you want. Mine is set to 15psi.
If you wanted to add in another safety feature. You could use a RPM window switch in the TPS line so you could only activate above 3000rpm @ WOT and under a specified PSI
AND FOR PEOPLE WANTING ACTION SHOTS !!!!
#72
Its the Zex Turbo Wet kit.
Come with everything a standard wet kit for EFI comes with, but adds in a boost sensing deactivation switch.
So it runs a power and ground for the solenoids, and taps into you TPS signal wire. So you program the solenoid box to trigger at WOT and then adjust the Boost switch to deactivate at what ever boost you want. Mine is set to 15psi.
If you wanted to add in another safety feature. You could use a RPM window switch in the TPS line so you could only activate above 3000rpm @ WOT and under a specified PSI
Come with everything a standard wet kit for EFI comes with, but adds in a boost sensing deactivation switch.
So it runs a power and ground for the solenoids, and taps into you TPS signal wire. So you program the solenoid box to trigger at WOT and then adjust the Boost switch to deactivate at what ever boost you want. Mine is set to 15psi.
If you wanted to add in another safety feature. You could use a RPM window switch in the TPS line so you could only activate above 3000rpm @ WOT and under a specified PSI
Are you spraying in first or during burnouts? I'm a retard and like to free rev, can you set the boost switch for a range like 2-15 psi rather than just upper limit of 15? How long is a bottle lasting you?
I'm really interested in how it's changed your timing map as well.
#73
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only went through half a bottle at my last event, maybe 12-14 runs. But its only on for short bursts. I wouldnt free rev with nitrous. The setup only activates when it sees WOT and under set boost. As i said before the best would be to use a RPM window switch inline if the TPS wire to let it only activate higher than 3000rpm at WOT and under a boost pressure
#74
only went through half a bottle at my last event, maybe 12-14 runs. But its only on for short bursts. I wouldnt free rev with nitrous. The setup only activates when it sees WOT and under set boost. As i said before the best would be to use a RPM window switch inline if the TPS wire to let it only activate higher than 3000rpm at WOT and under a boost pressure
#77
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Most tracks will and should kick your *** out if you get caught taking part in this type of stupidity.
If I were at an event and you were paddocked next to me I would ask you, very politely, once to either stop, or kill yourself far enough from me that I wouldn't have to clean your remains off me or my car. The second time I had to ask we would have serious issues.
You are playing with a bomb when you do this stupid crap. Are you capable of middle school math? Typical Nitrous bottle pressures hover around 1100 PSI. Go look at a 10lb Nitrous bottle and think for just a few moments about the MASSIVE amount of potential energy stored in that bottle. So then you are going to weaken the vessel that is containing that pressure by applying a massive amount of localized heat?
If you can't afford to do it right....you can't afford to do it.
Here are a few pics that show the explosive force of a nitrous bottle
Here are a couple pics of the setup on my E46 M3. Two stages, two bottle heaters and two bottle openers.
If I were at an event and you were paddocked next to me I would ask you, very politely, once to either stop, or kill yourself far enough from me that I wouldn't have to clean your remains off me or my car. The second time I had to ask we would have serious issues.
You are playing with a bomb when you do this stupid crap. Are you capable of middle school math? Typical Nitrous bottle pressures hover around 1100 PSI. Go look at a 10lb Nitrous bottle and think for just a few moments about the MASSIVE amount of potential energy stored in that bottle. So then you are going to weaken the vessel that is containing that pressure by applying a massive amount of localized heat?
If you can't afford to do it right....you can't afford to do it.
Here are a few pics that show the explosive force of a nitrous bottle
Here are a couple pics of the setup on my E46 M3. Two stages, two bottle heaters and two bottle openers.
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