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Old 06-22-2015, 02:56 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by GeneSplicer View Post
Now, i can duct, which i will
Do this and report back. I've noticed that my NB seems to have A LOT more areas of air leakage than my NA ever did. I suspect you will find huge dividends with even half assed ducting compared to what the factory gave us.
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Old 06-22-2015, 06:29 PM   #22
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Will do!
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Old 06-22-2015, 09:40 PM   #23
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Cheapie fans just lost torsional rigidity. Try twisting the motor by hand...
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Old 06-22-2015, 09:45 PM   #24
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Cheapie fans just lost torsional rigidity. Try twisting the motor by hand...
These motors would have to make some measurable amount of torque for that to matter....
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Old 06-23-2015, 09:27 AM   #25
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Its not the motor torque that is the problem its when you go down the road over a bump and those fan blades get pushed into the radiator.
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Old 06-23-2015, 10:05 AM   #26
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uh huh.
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Old 06-23-2015, 12:39 PM   #27
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Well gentlemen, I can tell you the particular fans I did this to, that's not going to be a problem. The motor on these fans is very light. Besides, I mounted then 1" away, they'll never touch. Also by design the fan blades are around 3/4" away from the shroud anyways, so even if you mounted the fan directly to the radiator, the fan blades still would never hit the radiator.
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Old 06-23-2015, 02:02 PM   #28
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Can't wait for the follow up thread in 3-6 months when you being a cheap *** nukes your radiator.
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Old 06-23-2015, 02:12 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dunning Kruger Affect View Post
Can't wait for the follow up thread in 3-6 months when you being a cheap *** nukes your radiator.
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Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post
I'm doing a rear-mount a/c condenser and for this, I need a very thin fan for packaging.=
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Rear mount a/c condenser pics will be in my build thread.
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These fans are going on an a/c condenser located in the rear of the vehicle. And it's a cheap a/c condenser.
I hope they don't nuke my radiator, we will have to see! I'm sure you guys know more about my setup than I do though, so I trust you are right!
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Old 06-23-2015, 04:26 PM   #30
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If it's really a concern why not leave 4 sections untouched to keep some strength.
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Old 06-23-2015, 04:34 PM   #31
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Because it's a concern that's not actually a problem.

See the two screws in the pic of the motor at 9 and 3 O'clock? That's all that hold the motor the the plastic-hub it's bolted to. If I grabbed the fan blade and started pulling/twisting, I'd break the fan where those 2 screws are. That is the weak link, not the little ribs. I compared both fans in the pic, both would break there first, it's the obvious weak point. So if I want to make it stronger, I need to improve that, not the ribs.
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Old 06-23-2015, 04:36 PM   #32
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And FYI, I did it by removing 1 section (proved that removing ribs increases airflow), then 4, then 8, then 10, then all 12. Each time it showed the mounts for the motor were flexing. So I kept cutting. I'm sure it's weaker, but I doubt it will be a problem. Even if it is, so what, they were like 37 dollars shipped for the PAIR!
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Old 06-23-2015, 04:38 PM   #33
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I'm totally on your side. I have those exact same fans on mine, and am needing better airflow as well with the Texas heat. I was just curious if you'd removed them in groups or all in one go. Thanks for doing the research for me!
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Old 06-23-2015, 05:57 PM   #34
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If those ribs hurt airflow that much, imagine how much a radiator would!!
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Old 06-23-2015, 05:57 PM   #35
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Just went out into the office parking lot and broke all but 4 of my supports out. I can also confirm that the fan motor/body is no more flexible than before I started. I'm anxious to see if it improves my overheating in traffic with the AC on.
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Old 06-23-2015, 06:23 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonC SBB View Post
If those ribs hurt airflow that much, imagine how much a radiator would!!
What exactly is your point? Pulling air through a radiator is the point. Pushing air past extraneous plastic supports, not so much.

It is what it is, sub $40 pair of fans. If this makes them suck less and still keeps the car from overheating at idle it is a win.
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Old 06-23-2015, 06:37 PM   #37
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I'll be leaving for home shortly in 93* Dallas traffic. I'll report back on if removing fins helped me.
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Old 06-23-2015, 07:00 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deezums View Post
What exactly is your point? Pulling air through a radiator is the point. Pushing air past extraneous plastic supports, not so much.

It is what it is, sub $40 pair of fans. If this makes them suck less and still keeps the car from overheating at idle it is a win.
Exactly, an odd post from Jason.

It has to help some, and it doesn't seem to hurt anything. Either way my goal is to make things work better, so even if the motor falls off the fan tomorrow and it becomes obvious I caused it, that's ok. Nobody knows everything, and I certainly don't.

If you look at any high quality fan, the little keep-your-finger-out-ribs are much thinner than the ebay fans. Some in this thread show that SPAL fans for example are thinner even if they have them too.

Besides I just knocked at least 10 grams off the fans, so gram strategy make me go faster!
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Old 06-23-2015, 07:01 PM   #39
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In for results.

This thread made me switch out my supposed spal fans (ended up not being spal fans) to the stock units. Need to run some logs to see if there is a difference.
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Old 06-23-2015, 09:40 PM   #40
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So my temp was 199-201 crusin on the highway, about 3* lower than normal, no ac. Mostlikely caused by reduced restriction for air going through the shroud. I turned my ac when traffic got to less than 10 mph on the highway, I made it about 3/4 of the way before temps got to 218* and I shut it off. Normally I make it less than halfway before temps got that high. I addition the Temps came back to 205* very quickly, before I had to turn the heater on to drop the temps.
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