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Old 09-21-2007, 10:52 PM   #21
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I have nothing against ITBs when coupled with an engine designed for power, alone they are nothing special.
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Old 09-21-2007, 10:53 PM   #22
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Because it has 4 TB's between the BOV and head. That big part the BOV is welded to isn't what connects to the head. Look at how the fuel injectors are pointing, that is going to the head.
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Old 09-21-2007, 11:44 PM   #23
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i am curious too what cause the fire?
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Old 09-22-2007, 12:27 AM   #24
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Awesome dude, I saw you right as you were coming off the exit 17, and I was getting on the freeway in my comcast cable truck. And I was like damn, that's one bad *** looking miata and nice intercooler too, respect respect, haha.
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Old 09-22-2007, 01:46 AM   #25
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haha thanks. I just put those Kazeras on and they came out WAYYY better than what I thought. It looks like the cause was a split in the feed line...which was steel braided...dont ask me. The oil then blew all over the turbo/DP and obviously ignited.

It looks at though the most expensive parts will be replacing the LC1, brake cylinder, and slave cylinder.

The rest of the pieces are small sections of wire that the electrical tape and shrouds just melted onto. So Im going to find replacement sections and just splice those in.

Any help for used or new parts specifically in the Seattle area would be a huge help. Or just any tips on here. Im going to try and have this back together, more reliable and cleaner within 2 weeks max. Thanks guys
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Old 09-24-2007, 03:23 AM   #26
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that really sucks. hope youll be able to get everything good and done. makes me want to check all my oil lines again for saftey
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Old 09-24-2007, 07:41 AM   #27
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They might have been steel braided but where they that rubber **** that summit sells When you put it all back together get the real teflon inner steel braided lines from a hydralic store it w ill be much more robust and able to take the heat and pressure alot better. Also do a coolant reroute, make a custom Intake Manifold, some cams, i would pull the motor and do a over bore with some forged internals, as well as new billet oil pump gears, a 6 speed if not so equiped now. And maybe a nice hood. + custom body pain job. Glad you didn't blow it up though man GL
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Old 09-24-2007, 10:24 AM   #28
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Did the police give you a hard time?

Could have been worse, I saw a family of five by the side of the road once basking in the glow of their van engulfed in flames. Me, being an idiot, didn't take a picture and I've lost touch with the friend that did.

Any pictures from your barbie?
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Old 09-24-2007, 10:37 AM   #29
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yeah, pics!
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Old 09-24-2007, 10:48 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnamx-5 View Post
They might have been steel braided but where they that rubber **** that summit sells When you put it all back together get the real teflon inner steel braided lines from a hydralic store
you do know that the braided stainless/teflon hoses are still rubber hose inside the braided stainless, right? they're just coated on the very inside surface of the rubber with teflon... still a rubber hose with steel braided around it...
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Old 09-24-2007, 10:49 AM   #31
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*****. i'd be willing to bet a hose or wire was making contact with your DP and ignited. that sucks.










i second the request for pics, though. ;-)
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Old 09-24-2007, 10:51 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
I have nothing against ITBs when coupled with an engine designed for power, alone they are nothing special.
Tell that to the itb **** over at CR.net :gay:
Greatest thing since canned beer acccording to some.
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Old 09-24-2007, 11:07 AM   #33
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this has never happened to me.
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Old 09-24-2007, 12:58 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miatanutz View Post
Tell that to the itb **** over at CR.net :gay:
Greatest thing since canned beer acccording to some.
lol
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Old 09-24-2007, 01:07 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devin mac View Post
you do know that the braided stainless/teflon hoses are still rubber hose inside the braided stainless, right? they're just coated on the very inside surface of the rubber with teflon... still a rubber hose with steel braided around it...
No mine is 100% teflon no rubber whatsoever. I have cut an old line i had that got kinked to verify this as well. Thank god for the parker store.
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Old 09-24-2007, 01:54 PM   #36
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very interesting.. i honestly didn't know 100% teflon hoses existed...



i stand corrected.
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Old 09-24-2007, 02:11 PM   #37
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Some teflon hoses:
http://www.holley.com/types/Ultra%20...-%20Kevlar.asp
http://www.holley.com/types/Ultra%20...ss%20Braid.asp
http://www.holley.com/types/Speed-Flex%20Hose.asp
http://www.russellperformance.com/au...eer_hose.shtml
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

The ends for these hoses are different from those used on normal -AN line. When I built my turbo system I initially tried to use Teflon hose for the turbo feed, but I just couldn't seem to assemble a solid hose-end connection that I felt was adequate. Never did quite figure out why I couldn't make it work.

In the end I decided to use -4AN SS covered rubber hose. I simply looked for the one with the highest temp rating (which I believe was Russell Pro-Flex, at 350°F) and covered it with some aluminized heat-shield sleeve. As you can see from this picture (taken without the sleeve installed) the feed line passes perilously close to the downpipe. It's almost touching it, in fact. So far however, no problems. The DP itself is ceramic-coated (which does make a tremendous difference) however I suspect I'd probably be well-served to institute a periodic replacement regime as preventative maintenance. Hose is cheap compared to engine fires.


Last edited by Joe Perez; 09-24-2007 at 02:22 PM.
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