fresh meat >:]
#82
Well
First off I didn't know it had aftermarket on there.
Strut bar.... I dunno if nb came with them
The shocks.... I guess they are good shocks... Like 100 a peice.... I dunno about the springs or anything.
Wuddo you mean torsen?
Also my Grammys friend says she has a flawless black hardtop in Cali that she said I could have if I lived there. But I don't so I MIGHT make the trip down there to get it but idk yet. She said she might just sell it on craigslist and I was like NO!!!!!!! lol
But thanks
Now time to save for I/H/E then megasquirt that b. Lol
Should I throw bigger injectors in before the ms or nah
First off I didn't know it had aftermarket on there.
Strut bar.... I dunno if nb came with them
The shocks.... I guess they are good shocks... Like 100 a peice.... I dunno about the springs or anything.
Wuddo you mean torsen?
Also my Grammys friend says she has a flawless black hardtop in Cali that she said I could have if I lived there. But I don't so I MIGHT make the trip down there to get it but idk yet. She said she might just sell it on craigslist and I was like NO!!!!!!! lol
But thanks
Now time to save for I/H/E then megasquirt that b. Lol
Should I throw bigger injectors in before the ms or nah
#83
From wikipedia-
The Torsen differential works just like a conventional differential but can lock up if a torque imbalance occurs, the maximum ratio of torque imbalance being defined by the Torque Bias Ratio (TBR).[3] When a Torsen has a 3:1 TBR, that means that one side of the differential can handle up to 75% while the other side would have to only handle 25% of applied torque. During acceleration under asymmetric traction conditions, so long as the higher traction side can handle the higher percentage of applied torque, no relative wheelspin will occur. When the traction difference exceeds the TBR, the slower output side of the differential receives the tractive torque of the faster wheel multiplied by the TBR; any extra torque remaining from applied torque contributes to the angular acceleration of the faster output side of the differential.
So.....you can smoke both tires on your burnout!
The Torsen differential works just like a conventional differential but can lock up if a torque imbalance occurs, the maximum ratio of torque imbalance being defined by the Torque Bias Ratio (TBR).[3] When a Torsen has a 3:1 TBR, that means that one side of the differential can handle up to 75% while the other side would have to only handle 25% of applied torque. During acceleration under asymmetric traction conditions, so long as the higher traction side can handle the higher percentage of applied torque, no relative wheelspin will occur. When the traction difference exceeds the TBR, the slower output side of the differential receives the tractive torque of the faster wheel multiplied by the TBR; any extra torque remaining from applied torque contributes to the angular acceleration of the faster output side of the differential.
So.....you can smoke both tires on your burnout!
#88
Absolutely do NOT get an underdrive pulley. Search here, you'll thank me later. Pulley set?? Is that what people look at when the hood is popped these days? No. Nobody cares about your pulleys. Save your money, focus your car budget on cooler things, like getting turboed... Bling is instant gratification, but looks can be deceiving.
To make your windows faster, take the door panel off and remove the plethora of solidified OEM grease from the window rails that are causing them to slow down.
To make your windows faster, take the door panel off and remove the plethora of solidified OEM grease from the window rails that are causing them to slow down.
#91
I don't think the stock clutch will handle 250hp. I plan on going from 6-7 psi to around 10-11 psi over the winter and i'll be upgrading the clutch, injectors and adding an intercooler to do so. My clutch has been fine so far at 6-7 psi but I don't abuse the car that often and barely ever launch it hard.
If your concerned about your engine, a few simple tests can determine if it's healthy enough or not. I did a ring/hone and had a valve job done prior to the turbo kit going on, but it probably wasn't necessary.
Increasing the timing is good if your staying NA. Otherwise you'll need to retard it for boost. Unfortunately, the nb's require either a piggyback unit or a custom built ecm to control timing. I think yours has variable cam timing as well a higher compression ratio, so you'll have to address that too.
Is this your daily driver or do you still have that sweet 4 door cavi?
If your concerned about your engine, a few simple tests can determine if it's healthy enough or not. I did a ring/hone and had a valve job done prior to the turbo kit going on, but it probably wasn't necessary.
Increasing the timing is good if your staying NA. Otherwise you'll need to retard it for boost. Unfortunately, the nb's require either a piggyback unit or a custom built ecm to control timing. I think yours has variable cam timing as well a higher compression ratio, so you'll have to address that too.
Is this your daily driver or do you still have that sweet 4 door cavi?
#92
HAHA sorry i forgot to name the clutch.
but yeah
i was going to swap to a performance clutch right as i buy a turbo kit.
i don't plan on cheaping out on anything. so, so far i believe i can get to 250hp with a budget around $5000 in new parts. but i am going to buy some used parts and get help from you guys so i know whether the part is shitty or if it is good.
the only thing that really concerns me about my engine is the lifter tick on a cold startup and it ticks for about a minute then fades away.
ahh ok then. will i have to get lower compression pistons so it won't blow or should i be good?
...... and to be honest, i don't know what variable cam timing is..... i've heard of it but i still don't know. what i do know is that i still have TONS to learn before i start this build.
i still have the cavy, but i am getting the head all cleaned up and throwing a new head gasket on. then i gotta bypass my heater core, troubleshoot my misfire [i believe it is one of the coils in the coil pack], then i gotta pick up 2 new sensors.
I LOVE driving the miata though!
but yeah
i was going to swap to a performance clutch right as i buy a turbo kit.
i don't plan on cheaping out on anything. so, so far i believe i can get to 250hp with a budget around $5000 in new parts. but i am going to buy some used parts and get help from you guys so i know whether the part is shitty or if it is good.
the only thing that really concerns me about my engine is the lifter tick on a cold startup and it ticks for about a minute then fades away.
ahh ok then. will i have to get lower compression pistons so it won't blow or should i be good?
...... and to be honest, i don't know what variable cam timing is..... i've heard of it but i still don't know. what i do know is that i still have TONS to learn before i start this build.
i still have the cavy, but i am getting the head all cleaned up and throwing a new head gasket on. then i gotta bypass my heater core, troubleshoot my misfire [i believe it is one of the coils in the coil pack], then i gotta pick up 2 new sensors.
I LOVE driving the miata though!
#94
fixed passenger window....... Cococarbine3 youre a genius! :]
next criss angel right there knowing what i was about to ask :P
anyways i ripped off that stupid bracket in the front and took off the red sticker in the back.
That brought me here:
Washed and cleaned up and taken to the warehouses:
[Did not wash the rims because the paint is chipping. So. Yeah, they are dirty]
next criss angel right there knowing what i was about to ask :P
anyways i ripped off that stupid bracket in the front and took off the red sticker in the back.
That brought me here:
Washed and cleaned up and taken to the warehouses:
[Did not wash the rims because the paint is chipping. So. Yeah, they are dirty]
Last edited by sh4d0wf0xxx; 11-26-2010 at 08:19 PM.
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