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I got a Creality CR-10, which is beyond amazing. 300x300x400 build volume, and downloaded the newest beta version of Cura which had all the presets for the printer already available. Since purchasing I added another Z stepper, cable management, some nice printed covers, larger bed level *****, and last night I swapped out the loud stock fans for much quieter units and added rubber dampers to the x & y stepper motors. It's much quieter now. I've got extra dampers and other "stuff" if you end up getting one. BTW, they've dropped the price on them to $340 delivered on Gearbest....unbelievable for what's considered the very best inexpensive 3D printer out there.
Nice, I heard good things about that one. My DIY built D-bot seems to be working okay but it mostly sits on a shelf and collects dust for the most part these days.
I realized after sending out the first batch that they were crap. Do overs. Like I said, this is a new machine for me so you guys are my guinea pigs. It may turn out that these things need to be made from ABS instead of PLA, which is the next test.
I'm going to reprint so that the holes in the center don't need to be taken out manually. Stand by...
I realized after sending out the first batch that they were crap. Do overs. Like I said, this is a new machine for me so you guys are my guinea pigs. It may turn out that these things need to be made from ABS instead of PLA, which is the next test.
I'm going to reprint so that the holes in the center don't need to be taken out manually. Stand by...
PLA will soften/melt if left in a hot car. Definitely need to print with ABS or other high temp material.
OK, a second batch of PLA pieces was sent out yesterday. The parts is much, much nicer. I added a simple block-off plate for the other visor and some lucky recipients will also get a cam holding tool. If the GoPro bit doesn't work then I guess you can just knock off the mounts and use that as a block-off plate too...
Originally Posted by UrbanSoot
PLA will soften/melt if left in a hot car. Definitely need to print with ABS or other high temp material.
Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Posts: 5,677
Total Cats: 800
Aweeee yuuussss
What an awesome surprise this is. Props again.
I did have to do some light file work in order for the tool to get me into my favorite beverage. But it worked.
I've had my other one hanging in my daily for a few days, we'll see how it holds up when it gets cold again. I'd rather use the old one in case it does fail it's not the good one.
Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Posts: 5,677
Total Cats: 800
Long term update.
I've had my gopro and now my Yi (gopro suck Yi better) on and off since well, January of 2018. The mount is still very much intact. Nothing melted, but my climate is much cooler.
Now one thing i think i would add. With the stiffness of my car the camera tends to vibrate sideways. I would suggest (if possible) adding a bit of support where the screwdriver is pointing. Maybe chamfer the edge out so it's not a 90* angle. May help, but probably won't. Just using my gen 1 mount for example since the other one is in the car. The 2nd gen is much cleaner.
I'm going to throw in on this as I had this for ages (although not printed by cordycord.
I've had 4 printers 3 still active (the other burned down my house - no really).
This design is built for injection moulded parts really and the typical FDM layering in the direction of oscillation only makes it more wobbly.
Erat's idea will add a wider base limiting flexing somewhat but the biggest issue is the layers oriented for printing.
Ideally you would just use a DLP printer for maximum print rigidity.
If you use a **** ton of support, aligned by 90° to the picture above, this model prints better.
This puts the lamination along the hole based axis making the mount and base more of a single print.
However this then raise processing cost as well as having to tune the printer to a very high and time consuming precision.
This however brings me to my pondering.
Do you really want absolute rigidity given the vibrating, pitching, rolling, yawing nature of track driving?
Surely there is a middle ground where it is not a jack in the box wobble and not complete blur vibration from maximum rigidity.
Obviously having been FDM since reprap I am quite versed in looking at prints to tweak my settings too. I'm sure others on here are also too.
Having paid a big price and still printing I prefer to attempt to help where i can but also not wanting to turn this into a printing disucssion.
So for the print in Erat's picture i have a few suspicions about settings for that filament in slicing and printing.
The dragged line - I'm guessing bed isn't flat as could be or filament is "wet" or filament printed too hot.
The dip away from the edges - in the slicer the top/bottom layer setting could be increased to stop warping so much.
Long straight bubbling - this looks like overextrusion by a small amount
Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Posts: 5,677
Total Cats: 800
You know, with how good EIS is on newer cameras I'd say that rigidity isn't much an issue anymore. Any cameras 2016 and older will have a crap picture.
My newest YI is almost a perfectly steady image on my hydroplane, which has the worst bumpiest ride possible.
As for the quality of that part, as i said it was generation one. Gen 2 is MUCH nicer and cleaner.
Like I said I've got analogue bullet cameras going to a DVR as well as a GoPro Hero (not a 2,3,4,5 or any other but the original one) so its probably time to update.
01-02-2018, 01:11 PM
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It may turn out that these things need to be made from ABS instead of PLA, which is the next test.
