Actually got the wiring put together mostly on friday. The cops have fresh wire to them, with the new pins. So far, they seem to lock in, without having the extra dremel mod.... Factory harness has been prep'd to connect the cops.

But there's no rush since we got more snow last night -- unfortunately....

Need to figure out how to bolt them down....

I'll do a temp solution on thew wiring to test them, and make sure that everything is OK... and figure out the "neat"-est way to run.....

Dave,

 

I'm not following Brain, do you mean you need to fix the diagram to say standalone only, or start making your standalones so they'll do COPs without needing the resisistor?

And I plan on jumpering the BLU/YEL-BLU/BLK-WHT/1kOHM all inside the gutted ignitor. I hope there's enough room... I have big hands and limited soldering skillz.

 

Q: didn't the monster-of-all-threads about COPs mention that BLU/YEL and BLU/BLK do NOT need to be wired together if you're running MS? See here:

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...t=cops&page=29

It's in the post right under Lazzer's schematic. Is that post correct?

Cheers!

Jeff

 

they do still have to be wired together....all you have to do is ignore the 1k pull up thing.


if standalone then you wouldn't have to wire them together, but you'd still need a pull up resistor to power the tach signal. or throw the 1K resistor in the diagnostics connector: IG- to B+. Easy as pie.

 

Sam, did you buy connectors from Toyota with pins already installed? Where did you get the pins?

 

Good ******* idea. Thanks dude.

 

All right, you guys are geeking out and I've got an arts degree and can't follow. Make it easy on me... what exactly do I have to splice together and do I yes-or-no have to use the resistor. Basically, what is different from the schematic since I'm running MS standalone? And ?what? about the diagnostics connector?

I bought the COP's on eBay and the connectors via the source in Brains DIY COP's thread in the archives. I got the pins from Brain (I think his last set) and have been soldering the pins to the wires.

I'm using 18gauge wire all around. I believe when you push the pins into the connector, that they CLICK in place and are fairly secure so you don't have to worry about accidentally pulling a wire out when pulling the connector off the COP.

I'll use electrical tape to make things neat, and then a black-platic-ribbed wiring sheath for an OEM look. I'm taking the valve cover off this weekend and am going to clean it and hit it with some hi-temp black paint... and paint the hold-down bracket black. Should be pretty stealth.

 

sam you need the resistor. then end. follow the diagram to a tee. if you dont install the resistor on the harness...put it in the diagnostics box like i stated above.


geeky:

the Black/White wire is providing a 1v signal to the TACH output (yellow/blue).
When you remove the ECU you remove the voltage, so you need the resistor. you can jump it in the diagnostics box or on the harness itself.

 

If you do not have the resistor, PM me with your address and I'll put one in the mail for you. A good 5W one even.

 

Put it in the diag connector. It won't be subject to bending there, hence won't ever break. I've seen 2 broken ones now.

 

Thanks guys, this thing will be running tomorrow. I've got a RadioShack 2miles away, so I'll just get a pack of them, thanks Ben. My fuel-pump ground wire was getting lonely in the diagnostics box, so now it'll have a resistor to keep it company.

On another note, I removed my charcoal canister last night... anything special about the little wiring harness for it... does it even work with MS?

 

Grats man.

I tried to source some cheap COPS from some of the local wreck yards and I couldn't find anything for under $150 for a set of four. The only place that didn't have a bunch was the local Pick A Part.

Where ever you guys are finding them so cheap, pick up some extras!

 

eBay son, I paid $70:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOT...spagenameZWDVW

You can also find them on eBay in lots of 1's and 2's... I'd be wary of somebody just selling 1. Two weeks ago when I was looking, there were 4 or 5 complete sets of 4 at various prices. I didn't do a huge eBay search, but I really only see the one set right now. Check back every day, they seem to be pretty common.

 

More:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...spagenameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/00-01...spagenameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2001-...spagenameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-99...spagenameZWD1V
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-99...spagenameZWD1V

Search for toyota, celica, matrix, corolla, coil, plug, 1zz, 1zzfe, etc... Some people don't know how to write a good eBay ad and have shitty titles/writeups with minimal key words and you might find one advertised as a "toyota plug wire thingy spark coil" that nobody else finds and you score a great deal.

 

cool, thanks sam.

 

car-part.com is a better source....

 

Sorry to sound dumb, but why are you using different coil pack? More spark for your turbo setup?

 

Yea. Stronger spark from the toyota coils.

 

Switching to a COP setup should provide a much stronger/hotter spark, leading to better combustion. Overall engine performance should improve a few percent, a little extra power, and better fuel economy. I'll be making a full report soon.

I think what I'm going to do once I get it running is to head back down to the All-Aspects and put it on the dyno for a pull... then upload the new spark MAP that was posted in my Dyno thread in the Meagaquirt forum and see what that's worth.

Whaddya think COPS plus 6* of timing advance is worth for power?

 

I want to know that too. I was planning on ditching the canister later to be replaced with a decent catch can setup, but I didn't want to mess up the wiring and connectors next to it What do they do and is MS (standalone by Braineack) controlling it or can I ditch that can?
I read it was some sort of electronically controlled purge valve?