NB2 Won't Start After Timing Belt
#41
Have you pulled a plug and checked to see if you actually have spark?
I notice one screw is replaced on the cover, but is there any chance you opened up the never-to-be-touched voodoo VVT innards (behind 4 hex bolts) on the end of the intake cam?
You need to charge your battery before you do any more cranking or you're going to kill it.
I notice one screw is replaced on the cover, but is there any chance you opened up the never-to-be-touched voodoo VVT innards (behind 4 hex bolts) on the end of the intake cam?
You need to charge your battery before you do any more cranking or you're going to kill it.
#42
Might want to check my thread for some troubleshooting. I know its not what you want to hear, but perhaps a very slow redoing of timing belt job to ensure it still lines up fine?
Were you sure to check the trigger wheel orientation?
As mentioned, have you verified spark by sticking a screwdriver in the plug wire and grounding while someone cranks?
Lastly as mentioned, def charge the battery or jump it when you try cranking again
Were you sure to check the trigger wheel orientation?
As mentioned, have you verified spark by sticking a screwdriver in the plug wire and grounding while someone cranks?
Lastly as mentioned, def charge the battery or jump it when you try cranking again
#43
So I pulled the coilpacks today on my NB2, and while cranking the car I could barely see any spark. We tested both coilpacks and both of them barely put out any spark. I checked the grounds and fuses, and both are all good. So it sounds like it is the coilpacks? The sparkplugs look like the car was running rich, which is also why I believe it is the ignition system. If it is not the ignition packs, any ideas what else it could be?
Thank you!
Thank you!
#46
Go back to any pics you have, or others of a stock/put together setup...aka how it should be. Could be loose plug wire at either the pack or going into the cylinder... Could be u might have put together in the wrong way
For it to have been running perfectly, and all of a sudden both packs die is very unlikely
Also, u sure you grounding properly when u check? And lastly make sure plug gaps are within limits and plug wires are all on nice and snug. And make sure coil packs are tightened down all the way (don't over do it) along w plugs
For it to have been running perfectly, and all of a sudden both packs die is very unlikely
Also, u sure you grounding properly when u check? And lastly make sure plug gaps are within limits and plug wires are all on nice and snug. And make sure coil packs are tightened down all the way (don't over do it) along w plugs
#48
Since I don't have a pic of your current stock nb2 "cop" and plug wire arrangement, it was just a wild speculation that it is theoretically possible to configure your pairs in a 1&2, 3&4 arrangement instead of the correct 1&4, 2&3 arrangement. This theory would probably also need to include non-stock plug wires for it to even be possible though.
As has been mentioned before, the nature of your type of symptoms, where everything worked perfectly before it was disturbed, but not after, is classic for the oversight of some simple bungle in reassembly. You can look straight at it a hundred times, and it all looks good, but then once you finally see it, you're embarrassed at how stupid your mistake was, and often, how easy it is to then fix. We've all been there, we've all done it. Hopefully your fix is just that close.
As has been mentioned before, the nature of your type of symptoms, where everything worked perfectly before it was disturbed, but not after, is classic for the oversight of some simple bungle in reassembly. You can look straight at it a hundred times, and it all looks good, but then once you finally see it, you're embarrassed at how stupid your mistake was, and often, how easy it is to then fix. We've all been there, we've all done it. Hopefully your fix is just that close.
#49
Thank you TonyV and good2go for the advice.
Let me recap what I have done so far:
So so far I have
-Made 100% sure the timing is right
-quaddruple-bazillion time's double checked the grounds, connections, and sparkplug leads
-made sure the crank sensor is gaped correctly
-bought a new camshaft position sensor
-bought all new coilpacks
-bought a new battery
And the car still won't idle. When I crank it, it sounds like it wants to start, but it never does. If I pump the gas when cranking it, it will try to "catch" but will die without ever really idling. Cranking it in succession makes the car feel like it want's so start, but it will just sputter and die if I ever get it to reach 800+ RPMS. Does anyone have any ideas? I almost think it could be the fuel pump.
Let me recap what I have done so far:
So so far I have
-Made 100% sure the timing is right
-quaddruple-bazillion time's double checked the grounds, connections, and sparkplug leads
-made sure the crank sensor is gaped correctly
-bought a new camshaft position sensor
-bought all new coilpacks
-bought a new battery
And the car still won't idle. When I crank it, it sounds like it wants to start, but it never does. If I pump the gas when cranking it, it will try to "catch" but will die without ever really idling. Cranking it in succession makes the car feel like it want's so start, but it will just sputter and die if I ever get it to reach 800+ RPMS. Does anyone have any ideas? I almost think it could be the fuel pump.
#50
Thank you TonyV and good2go for the advice.
Let me recap what I have done so far:
So so far I have
-Made 100% sure the timing is right
-quaddruple-bazillion time's double checked the grounds, connections, and sparkplug leads
-made sure the crank sensor is gaped correctly
-bought a new camshaft position sensor
-bought all new coilpacks
-bought a new battery
And the car still won't idle. When I crank it, it sounds like it wants to start, but it never does. If I pump the gas when cranking it, it will try to "catch" but will die without ever really idling. Cranking it in succession makes the car feel like it want's so start, but it will just sputter and die if I ever get it to reach 800+ RPMS. Does anyone have any ideas? I almost think it could be the fuel pump.
Let me recap what I have done so far:
So so far I have
-Made 100% sure the timing is right
-quaddruple-bazillion time's double checked the grounds, connections, and sparkplug leads
-made sure the crank sensor is gaped correctly
-bought a new camshaft position sensor
-bought all new coilpacks
-bought a new battery
And the car still won't idle. When I crank it, it sounds like it wants to start, but it never does. If I pump the gas when cranking it, it will try to "catch" but will die without ever really idling. Cranking it in succession makes the car feel like it want's so start, but it will just sputter and die if I ever get it to reach 800+ RPMS. Does anyone have any ideas? I almost think it could be the fuel pump.
#52
Every NB2 has got one. It's part of the whole chipped key fob deal. There are numerous accounts of them failing too.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-Mazda-M...=Model%3AMiata
also, at The Parts Group:
ECU w/ Keys,Immobilizer,Trunk Lock,Halo & Remote
Came From A 2004 Mazdaspeed.
$250
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-Mazda-M...=Model%3AMiata
also, at The Parts Group:
ECU w/ Keys,Immobilizer,Trunk Lock,Halo & Remote
Came From A 2004 Mazdaspeed.
$250
#55
Too many times I've heard, read, and done it myself where its running and then not...gotta be something we're overlooking
OP...beating the dead horse ONE more time, when you say you've triple checked timing...you're visually confirming the CRANK is at TDC per the mark you can only see taking the Crank pulley off...AND the timing marks are lined up on gears vs metal plate behind gears?
TDC on Crank per arrow, gear on left lined up w E and gear on right with I? All THREE confirmed at same time?
(It'll be last I mention...promise just that most of the time THATS the culprit)
And....how about a shot w the valve cover off while everything is lined up...in my issue turns out one of the camshafts was out of alignment...when all is lined up the intake (left) and exhaust(right) should be at 9oclock and 3oclock respectively
***When you pulled the pulley and timing wheel off...how did you reinstall the timing wheel? Tons of reads about people installing backwards and the car starts first try once corrected (won't notice poor fitment during reassembly... Just a matter if markings/orientation)
Let's confirm all this and leave timing out of it...ditto w air, leaving spark and fuel
Spark....screw driver in plug wire-resting on Engine Hook, someone cranking should see a good spark (do in garage or at night so very easy to see)
Fuel...pull intake tube and open throttle body butterfly after some cranking...or pull a spark plug or 2...smell fuel??
Let's be detailed about how your confirming all this, and supporting w pics would be huge as alot of members on here can spot something out of whack easily
OP...beating the dead horse ONE more time, when you say you've triple checked timing...you're visually confirming the CRANK is at TDC per the mark you can only see taking the Crank pulley off...AND the timing marks are lined up on gears vs metal plate behind gears?
TDC on Crank per arrow, gear on left lined up w E and gear on right with I? All THREE confirmed at same time?
(It'll be last I mention...promise just that most of the time THATS the culprit)
And....how about a shot w the valve cover off while everything is lined up...in my issue turns out one of the camshafts was out of alignment...when all is lined up the intake (left) and exhaust(right) should be at 9oclock and 3oclock respectively
***When you pulled the pulley and timing wheel off...how did you reinstall the timing wheel? Tons of reads about people installing backwards and the car starts first try once corrected (won't notice poor fitment during reassembly... Just a matter if markings/orientation)
Let's confirm all this and leave timing out of it...ditto w air, leaving spark and fuel
Spark....screw driver in plug wire-resting on Engine Hook, someone cranking should see a good spark (do in garage or at night so very easy to see)
Fuel...pull intake tube and open throttle body butterfly after some cranking...or pull a spark plug or 2...smell fuel??
Let's be detailed about how your confirming all this, and supporting w pics would be huge as alot of members on here can spot something out of whack easily
#56
On the previous page are detailed pictures of the current timing marks. I have done that job twice before, and every time it has ran fine.
As for the pulley, I did not remove the trigger wheel. It was facing the right way before I took the crank pulley off.
Spark: Spark is good. I thought it might be the issue because when we pulled the coil packs out, we could see spark, but it was faint. The car has pretty new ignition lines and spark plugs, and I just installed new coil packs.
Fuel: I can certainly smell it when it is cranked, but I have not tested it.
As for the pulley, I did not remove the trigger wheel. It was facing the right way before I took the crank pulley off.
Spark: Spark is good. I thought it might be the issue because when we pulled the coil packs out, we could see spark, but it was faint. The car has pretty new ignition lines and spark plugs, and I just installed new coil packs.
Fuel: I can certainly smell it when it is cranked, but I have not tested it.
#58
I don't think so lol. Again, I appreciate any ideas you have, but that is funny you ask because I'm sure someone has done that before. I have an Autoexe cold air intake, so I cannot even really reach the filter to block it.
I have been looking up the Immobilizer issue, and people are saying that the car will at least start for a little while before the immobilizer will kill the engine. Mine doesn't even start for a little while. Also, the immobilizer cuts spark, which isn't right because I have that.
I have been looking up the Immobilizer issue, and people are saying that the car will at least start for a little while before the immobilizer will kill the engine. Mine doesn't even start for a little while. Also, the immobilizer cuts spark, which isn't right because I have that.
#59
Hey everyone, I appologize for the wait. Here is what the timing belt looks like right now. This is the exact position of the belt that caused the car to not run. Or, at least I think it caused it to not run. Does it look ok? I'll use that video's tooth counting method to check.
Also, the crank keyway looks like crap/damaged. And you didn't have the bottom pulley exactly centered on the mark either. I would change that keyway and gear piece with new parts that aren't damaged.
Fix cam timing first. Take CLEAR PICTURES and post them up when you do that.
Like this, this is my motor timed correctly. Note I put the camera in a straight ahead view so you can actually see if they are lined up.
#60
Apologies...with my own troubleshooting didn't remember previous pics. Seems like most of the above I posted has been ruled out. Seems maybe a tooth off but don't think that'd make a no start condition...
Agree doesn't sound like a immobilizer issue..
Hmmm, time to brainstorm... Will stay tuned and post anything I can think up
Agree doesn't sound like a immobilizer issue..
Hmmm, time to brainstorm... Will stay tuned and post anything I can think up