Oh fukn help me. It's the end. What is this sound my engine is making?
#41
Without watching the video, I'm going to guess the valve shims need to be replaced with proper ones. Here's a thread that has the instructions on how to do it.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t35265/
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t35265/
#42
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I may have your answer. I had the exact same sound when i built my motor. Was coming from the head to. Check your cam gear bolts, make sure they are tight. I thought mine were tight but they wern`t and the little pin on the cam shaft wore an oval groove in my cam gear so every time the gear was spinning it was clicking since it wasnt tight. Drove like that for a week, then finally pulled the motor, i was kind of pissed i had to pull the whole motor for a stupid cam gear bolt from being loose but it was worth it. SO check it out!
DING DING DING STRANGES127 WINS THE PRIze!!!!
It was the cam gear. It wasn't quite bolted down properly and was banging against the sheet metal. Fu YOU little nut, I fu you in the face with my wrench! HA HA HA IT LIVESSSS
Time for break-in!
#48
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Make sure you break it in right. Lots of load *out of boost*, lots of vacuum, more and more RPM as you go. All the break-in is done in the first 50 miles of driving.
no synthetics for at least 500-1000 miles.
no synthetics for at least 500-1000 miles.
#51
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OK For you aftermarket ECU guys I have a fresh question:
I'm trying to calibrate base timing on my hydra. Idle is fairly smooth, it idles ok between 12:1 and 15:1. A little roughness but the RPMs are steady at 1000. The tables are stable on one cell for both fuel and spark.
BUT when I look at the hydra readout, the timing number is jouncing all over between 6 and 12 several times a second. If I hold a bit of throttle 1-2%, the timing readout is stable.
WTF is this new ****? I can set the base timing by reducing the timing for that 1-2% cell and flashing the light but that is a workaround. Any ideas why the numbers are sloppy at idle?
#52
If it's anything like MegaSquirt it's using timing numbers off a map, which may or may not be tuned well at idle. See if you've got 6s and 12s in those cells. Most of us run something closer to 17*.
That said, you should have to set the ECU to a standard static timing setting, so it holds it regardless of bouncing around cells at idle. I'm not sure what the procedure is with Hydra, but you HAVE to know exactly what advance number the ECU is throwing down, and adjust your CAS or trigger angle until the timing light matches this number.
When you hold it stable is the crank pulley notch even close to the numbers Hydra is giving you?
Even if so, I'd want a static base timing number instead of trying to match the light with dynamic info on a screen. That's about like watching your AFR and boost gauges at the same time while driving to fix a fuel table cell.
That said, you should have to set the ECU to a standard static timing setting, so it holds it regardless of bouncing around cells at idle. I'm not sure what the procedure is with Hydra, but you HAVE to know exactly what advance number the ECU is throwing down, and adjust your CAS or trigger angle until the timing light matches this number.
When you hold it stable is the crank pulley notch even close to the numbers Hydra is giving you?
Even if so, I'd want a static base timing number instead of trying to match the light with dynamic info on a screen. That's about like watching your AFR and boost gauges at the same time while driving to fix a fuel table cell.
#53
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That's the plan.
OK For you aftermarket ECU guys I have a fresh question:
I'm trying to calibrate base timing on my hydra. Idle is fairly smooth, it idles ok between 12:1 and 15:1. A little roughness but the RPMs are steady at 1000. The tables are stable on one cell for both fuel and spark.
BUT when I look at the hydra readout, the timing number is jouncing all over between 6 and 12 several times a second. If I hold a bit of throttle 1-2%, the timing readout is stable.
WTF is this new ****? I can set the base timing by reducing the timing for that 1-2% cell and flashing the light but that is a workaround. Any ideas why the numbers are sloppy at idle?
OK For you aftermarket ECU guys I have a fresh question:
I'm trying to calibrate base timing on my hydra. Idle is fairly smooth, it idles ok between 12:1 and 15:1. A little roughness but the RPMs are steady at 1000. The tables are stable on one cell for both fuel and spark.
BUT when I look at the hydra readout, the timing number is jouncing all over between 6 and 12 several times a second. If I hold a bit of throttle 1-2%, the timing readout is stable.
WTF is this new ****? I can set the base timing by reducing the timing for that 1-2% cell and flashing the light but that is a workaround. Any ideas why the numbers are sloppy at idle?
#56
Wooo ******* right. I knew it had to be it was the exact same sound of my motor. Did you put your cams on or your builder? The first time i put mine on it happened. I gave it to my builder to fix it he put them on with some threadlocker havent had the problem since. Im very glad it fixed your problem. Have fun with boosting
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