over heating problems.
08-09-2007, 08:36 PM
#22
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,501
Total Cats: 4,080
most shops can do it. and yeah you bring each cylinder to TDC and pressurize it with an air compressor.
if you add 100psi in it, and only 80psi stays then you know you have 20% of your compression leaking somewhere....
oil filler : rings
intake : intake valves
exhaust : exhaust valves
radiator cap : head gasket/warped head
the tool can be built at home for around $20-30, but you still need that air compressor.
if you add 100psi in it, and only 80psi stays then you know you have 20% of your compression leaking somewhere....
oil filler : rings
intake : intake valves
exhaust : exhaust valves
radiator cap : head gasket/warped head
the tool can be built at home for around $20-30, but you still need that air compressor.
Reply
0
0
08-09-2007, 09:06 PM
#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Odenton, MD
Posts: 713
Total Cats: 0
okay thanks, and the best way to tell if you're TDC is, Also by doing this becaues the timing belt is on timing will not need to be reset correct? Also, lastly the car needs to be running during the test true or false?
Reply
0
0
08-09-2007, 09:36 PM
#26
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,501
Total Cats: 4,080
read the timing mark on the crank pulley, that way you can see if #1 and #4 are tdc, use you dipstick for #2 and #3....turn till it peaks.
remember if #1 valves are closed the #4 valves are open...so dont be scared when you have 100% leak :gay:
no running, spark plugs out...manually turn the engine into postion.
remember if #1 valves are closed the #4 valves are open...so dont be scared when you have 100% leak :gay:
no running, spark plugs out...manually turn the engine into postion.
Reply
0
0
08-09-2007, 09:55 PM
#27
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Odenton, MD
Posts: 713
Total Cats: 0
okay, i'll pull all the plugs out tomorrow correct? than turn to the TDC and check er out. Will i be able to tell where the whistle is coming from? Or should i just listen to the radiator at this time?
Reply
0
0
08-10-2007, 05:40 PM
#29
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Odenton, MD
Posts: 713
Total Cats: 0
okay, i tried to do it, but i couldnt get to the crank pulley, there's some metal crosssmember in the way. How do you reach the pulley( i was using a breaker bar if that helps.)
Reply
0
0
08-10-2007, 06:02 PM
#31
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Odenton, MD
Posts: 713
Total Cats: 0
ah okay, it's in the way, i cant get to it, can i pull the timing cover off and rotate the Exhaust/Intake pulleys using a wrench there ( moving clockwise only so it will not loosen)
Reply
0
0
08-10-2007, 06:11 PM
#33
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Odenton, MD
Posts: 713
Total Cats: 0
which do you suggest to? Remove the sway bar? Also, when cyl 1 is at TDC so is number 4 correct? (only on the opposite cycle) And when Cyl 1 is at it's lowest point, 2 and 3 are at TDC ( on opposite cycles) correct me if im wrong.
Reply
0
0
08-10-2007, 07:44 PM
#34
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Odenton, MD
Posts: 713
Total Cats: 0
Okay, so i did a leak down, it didn't seem to show any leakage. Also, a buddy of mine said if you run too much water in your radiator while the car is hot, it will cause that massive foaming like substance. Any light there? Okay so the next step is to just finish the flush out... than MS 
it came in yesterday.
EDIt is it normal to get ZERO leak with a 1994 with 70k miles?
it came in yesterday.EDIt is it normal to get ZERO leak with a 1994 with 70k miles?
Reply
0
0
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
