triple88a

iTrader: (2)

and thats something you've used and something you recommend sir?

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

yes, i bought it directly from kano.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

back to the compression test,

From the looks of it i have to undo the 3 12mm bolts that hold the coils to be able to unclip the power?

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

even if you leave everything plugged in and just undo the plug wires to the plugs you will be fine for the 5-10 mins it takes at the most to do a compression test. I cant remember off hand but the connector isnt rocket sceince to get to. Plus not every bolt you touch on a miata is gonna distegrate like on a rusty off raod domestic vehicle, so use alil feel and get that car the way you want it man.

ScottFW

iTrader: (4)

No. You should be able to reach around the coils to access the plugs. If you think that's difficult, try getting to that third mounting bolt (bottom middle) on the coil pack bracket and report back with your findings.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

ok i finally see the 2 plugs in the back

fyi, daylight is good when working on your car.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

aaahh dammit, tool i got from vatozone if fuked up, the joint between the rubber boot and the part that screws in the spark plug hole is trashed so it falls apart when i put pressure on it, i'll see if i can glue it together, if not i'll have to go exchange it :( dammit.

btw "fuel inj" fuse shuts off the injectors right?

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

off to get another one, i was able to get 1 reading before the glue gave out but i dont know how good that reading is.. 182 on cyl 1

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

Finally found a good tool after 4 autozones, i got back.. engine is too cold and i'm getting reading for #1 at 145 and reading for #2 at 135.. i guess i'll have to tear it all apart after my short drive from work tomorrow and try again. :(

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

lol for a cold motor that isnt bad. Make sure the throttle is full open while cranking and try that sucker warmed up the first cylinder is a very good baseline of what the others should be. If you other numbers are as low as 150s then you have a problem.

x8mrxjohn8x

iTrader: (1)

if your engine has high mileage, doing a compression test is near meaningless. Rather, do a leakdown test.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

baby steps man this is his first compresion test ever probly let him get that done before he trys something harder.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

the odometer has 58k miles on it even though its a '99.

I had the throttle fully open and the clutch pressed in.. the gauge would not move any more.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

well guys i gave it another shot, came home after a half an hr drive waited 5 minutes then started undoing spark plugs, and the coils and took off the fuel inj relay/fuse, screwed in the tester, floored the clutch and the gas, crank crank crank 7-8 times.. run out to check... 146 wtf!!!!

then i tried the 2nd cylinder.. 90 :(

so i tossed in some oil into cylinder 1 (only cylinder 1) and also some oil on the threads that screw into the spark plug area. Screwed it back in.. cranked and oil steam went flying out of the spark plug hole :( i dont know what to do now :(

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

back to the popping. When i've parked the car with the engine idling, i turn the wheel a tiny bit.. maybe 1/8 of a turn and i hear it pop, i turn it the other way, i hear it pop again.. turn it back... pop.. rev up the engine to 1500 rpm turn the wheel.. pop.. wtf? it sounds like its coming from the air filter area..

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

i tried to check it and its definitely coming from the air filter. Since i have a cone filter now i can hear it pretty clearly.

I press the gas a tiny bit to rev the engine just a bit to around 1300rpm, let go of the gas, as soon as it goes down to idle i turn the wheel.. pop

any ideas? :(

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

just forget about it man it is obviusly not hurting anything.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

alright then i'll go with the turbo install lol

hopefully this weekend i'll be able to toss it on there