I believe he did some trimming molding on the hatchback to get the lines better. The way it's shipped is very rough.

 

I've been looking at the GT-U wing for quite a while, wondering what it would do to put some big end plates on it.

I also wonder if the GT-U and the minidrag are the same airfoil with different risers, and possibly end plates.


With out CFD data or a more details about the airfoil specs, it's hard to guestimate what any of these would do even using javafoil.

 

Here's a start.

All us Cali based Miata crew talk about aero all the time. Its teh car's achilles heel when it comes to track stuff, not power, brakes, reliability, balance and certainly not mechanical grip. Aero. Lots of good ideas floating around. Jeff Lee of Slick may get his car doen before anyone else. Last time I talked to Matt Andrews I wasn't sure he was going to continue developing his car. If he does, he wants to put drag reduction near or at teh top of the list. I have all sort of grand plans I never have time to actually build Mostly it seems I end up giving other people ideas on how to build cars faster than mine

 

Looking around it seems harder to find cheap ricer wings.

Though I was able to find some.

Matrix Racing- Euro Altezza Tail Lights, Clear Projector Headlights, Auto Accessories, and Performance Parts for Cars & Trucks


Some even with a similar style.

Matrix Racing- Euro Altezza Tail Lights, Clear Projector Headlights, Auto Accessories, and Performance Parts for Cars & Trucks

Matrix 17-520 - Matrix Tech 9 Type-X Universal Wings - summitracing.com




Again, it's unknown how these perform, and for the price I'd imagine they create alot of drag. But you never know.

 

could the Veilside NA front bumper help reduce drag? Looks like it extends the nose a bit lower, but you would need an extraction hood with that sucker fish type mouth on it.

 

In my quest to determine the best strategy for altering the maita's aero I concluded that reducing drag was a nice by product if possible but the honest truth is that the necessary parts like a low front bumper with splitter and a rear wing add to the drag anyways. The most important factor to concentrate on for the car IMO is reducing lift.
This includes some things I've done and many more I have figured out and plan to do. An undertray is certainly one, as well as not just a low front chin to keep air out from under the car but also low sideskirts or the like to prevent the air that comes down the side of the car from wrapping underneath below the doors. Also, remove the rear bumper/cut it up to not be a sail - not only in the center but also the sides so that the air in the rear wheel wells can exit. Another important thing is to find a way to vent the air out of the front wheel wells - this is the thing I'm currently working on a solution for.

 

Ryan, you skipped the single most important aspect of drag reduction on the front of the car. If you can figure it out, I'll give you a cookie.

 

Ah.. the barn doors? I didn't think of it because I've not had the barn doors for 3 years now... yes, get rid of the barn doors, the lights, the motors etc. Save 20 lbs too.

Sans the rear bumper, everything I was talking about is more for reducing lift than drag.. it's difficult to really help the car's drag coefficient much because one can't ultimately change the overall frontal shape and outline of the car...

 

Barn doors are not up on the track.

 

Yes, But they're up for the down stroke.

 

Chopping the windshield and a-pillars? Lol oh well I so wanted that cookie..
-Ryan

 

oh wait he said "front"

ummmm

 

Not sure if you consider it the front, but side mirrors? I'll take chocolate chip please.

 

I know with the APR aluminum wings you can mount the stantions anywhere on the wing. They are just pop nut (riv nut) mounted to the wing surface. You can also order wings as blank kits and fabricate what you need out the parts.

Here is what Sbrian2 and I did for a friends SM2 RX7 using a blank wing kit from APR. Click Here. A lot more aggressive angle of attack on the second element then what is needed for a track car, but you get the concept.

 

Another important part of building a good underbody is panelling off the underside of the car, making it as smooth as possible but also you want to introduce a more drastic low to high pressure situation. You want the back end of the car to be pulling air from the front. If your underbody steadily grades upwards as it goes the length of the car, lowest point being the front splitter and highest point the end of the rear bumper, you pretty much are creating a vacuum under the car sucking it to the ground and increasing downforce all around.

 

You are so making cookies today so I can have some in between riding my Deer(e).

 

What you people really ought to be doing is widening your barn doors to use as makeshift air brakes :v

 

ding ding. The front tires on a 225mm-shod car are like 4" beyond the front bumper at the front, and like 80% of the surface area is a reverse wing that creates a shitload of lift and drag. Shroud the tires with ANYTHING and you will improve the drag big-time. Shroud the tires with a set of canards that produce downforce and you are a bad *** ************.

 

That ISC dam looks from the pics like it does a good job of blocking air from the front wheels. Does it?

 

It would probably do perfectly on a normal SM 15x7 +30 setup. With a 15x9 +36, you've got another 20mm or so of wheel/tire further out, so it does OK but it can be improved upon.