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Old 12-09-2010, 08:43 PM   #81
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I say one of these:

But then again I'm lazy and cheap.
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Old 12-09-2010, 09:38 PM   #82
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I say one of these:

But then again I'm lazy and cheap.


Oh trust me, if I can't find the problem I will be installing one of those.
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Old 12-10-2010, 01:43 AM   #83
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Im buying one today. Screw this battery ****
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Old 12-10-2010, 10:41 AM   #84
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When I read that, I was going to post a smart-*** reply asking if this was a German battery.

Then I saw your location. Guess I was off by a few km.
any comments on the wiring for the a/c? that was the last change he made before this started happening. It seems when he unplugs that connector from the harness his battery doesn't drain.
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Old 12-10-2010, 01:07 PM   #85
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any comments on the wiring for the a/c?
I'm confused by it, actually.

The purple lines make sense. Closure of the MSs fan driver to ground will close the loop for both the main and A/C fan relays, and those coils are only hot with the key on, so no problems there.

What's killing me is that I can't remember whether the output of the A/C amplifier on the red/white line is a pullup to +12 or a closure to ground, and looking back at my own drawings I find that the godless *********** at imagefra.me / picoodle have decided to expire some of my images prematurely, so I have nothing to fall back on here.

That's kind of an academic point, though. None of the things you've touched should have power on them when the key is off, so unless there's a mis-wire somewhere, I'm not seeing the problem.
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Old 12-10-2010, 02:07 PM   #86
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I posted how the DIYPNP is setup, mines similar, but the fans are wired together and then I have the diode. I mean it's possible I didn't do it right, but phil says it's 100% functional.
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Old 12-10-2010, 02:21 PM   #87
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Yeah, my thinking is more along the lines of "will this work at all?" than "Oh, I can see how this would drain the battery."


Point 1, which is largely academic, simply questions whether the A/C amplifier provides a closure to ground when on (I could answer that question for certain if I knew what the TO220 part in the DIY drawing was) and if so, whether it can sink enough current to energize two relay coils. I've never actually seen the A/C amplifier box in real life, I've only got what's printed in the FSM to go on. And it bugs me that, at one time I must have known for certain since I designed a circuit around it, but thanks to my fuckbrained image hosting service, I can no longer find any of my old documentation on that.


Point 2, which is more practical, is simply that even if your circuit were somehow faulty, none of the relays' coil sections should be getting power with key off. I mean, I can think of a couple of ways in which the circuit would behave incorrectly, but they all presuppose that at least one relay coil is getting power from somewhere, and your circuit (assuming it was implemented correctly) only touches the sink side of the coils, not the source side.
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Old 12-10-2010, 02:46 PM   #88
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Well, I wish I could help with the diagnosis but I can't. I can tell you that I left the connector in when I got to work (about 9:30). When I left for lunch at 12:30 my battery was dead again.......
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Old 12-10-2010, 03:01 PM   #89
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Well, I wish I could help with the diagnosis but I can't. I can tell you that I left the connector in when I got to work (about 9:30). When I left for lunch at 12:30 my battery was dead again.......
Still got that ammeter handy?

I know that this is starting to sound repetitive, but we're all just tilting at windmills until we know exactly where this current is going.
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Old 12-10-2010, 03:16 PM   #90
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Still got that ammeter handy?

I know that this is starting to sound repetitive, but we're all just tilting at windmills until we know exactly where this current is going.


Yes
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Old 12-10-2010, 04:52 PM   #91
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I had the same problem and it turned out to be the little relay/buzzer for the door open, keys in etc. That little unit fails on its own and draws enough power to sometimes make a buzz and sometimes it doesnt but it is still drawing power and it is connected to the room fuse as well so it is always hot. Mine was drawing just enough to kill the battery in a day or so depending on temps etc. It would usually start ok if I drove it everyday. I finally figured it out when I heard that little buzzer trying to make a noise when I was sitting in it with doors closed and key out. I pulled the unit out and opened it up and it was kind of melted inside and drawing power. No problem since I took it out. The unit is a plug in metal case that is under the dash and either near the fuse panel or attached to it. Good luck.
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Old 12-10-2010, 05:08 PM   #92
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Yes
Well, those electrons aren't just evaporating into the Šther, they've got to be going somewhere.

Find them.
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Old 12-10-2010, 05:51 PM   #93
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maybe the impedance of his air is lower and its enough to cause current flow... he does live in florida.
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Old 12-11-2010, 11:51 PM   #94
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I didn't read through most of this so sorry if its been said, but if you're still having this problem...just stick an ammeter in series with the battery and start pulling fuses. Its inefficient and time consuming, but it'll work.
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Old 12-12-2010, 04:41 AM   #95
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Just a thought - I had similar problems, when I had my EBC connected to the MS with an always hot +12V source.

The voltage was backfeeding through the MS an sucking the battery empty...
Completely dead in the morning...

Greets
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Old 12-22-2010, 10:21 AM   #96
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I had Phil pull the A/C relay while sitting overnight to try to narrow it down. Started up each morning with it removed... I guess we should look more closely at what I did with the A/C circuit.
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Old 12-22-2010, 01:48 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
I had Phil pull the A/C relay while sitting overnight to try to narrow it down. Started up each morning with it removed... I guess we should look more closely at what I did with the A/C circuit.
my a/c circuit is the titz.

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