Sub'd

 

It is a good solid transmission. Like bear *** . Hungry.

Serious about clutches

you can get any clutch with miata bolt pattern and rx7 splines. call up competion clutch, act, spec whatever. they will felate your hello kitty

 

Let's be friends.

 

OK! UPDATES!

SO, I got my prototype done. We're going to cut out the plate tomorrow to scan it and start machining.

The biggest problem has been finding a counter sunk M12x1.5 bolt to bolt the plate to the block. We ordered some from the UK which will be here in early august.

We used the stock starter location and notched the tranny because making it work in the RX-7 location was not going to be easy. Use a stock miata starter.

The stock TII clutch fork and throw out bearing are used with 1/4" to 3/8" washer behind the pivot for the fork and it reaches just fine. Stock miata slave cylinder works on the trans as well.

Clutch: Uses a clutch for an NC and a 1.8L flywheel works. If you have an existing 1.8L clutch just order a disc for an NC and it works! EASY.

PICTURES!







The notch for the starter, really simple with a cut off wheel:
Under the notch is a 30mm bolt so all total 35/40mm tall max





Tapped and mounted and working! Just needs to be cut out!





So just another few weeks before these are able to be available. Is there still serious interest? it's a pretty straight forward process and probably the best option available for a strong 5 speed!

 

 

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How precise is the alignment of the input shaft to the crankshaft centerline? Just curious what kind of equipment you used to cad/draw out the plate.

Looks like the original dowel pins are used to align the plate to the block. I assume that there will also be dowel pins to align the trans to the plate?

--Ferdi

 

Nice man! I kinda thought it'd be difficult to get the starter to work down there. Your exhaust fab guy will be appreciative as well. I'm still wishing I thought about using countersunk bolts- would have saved me a bunch of time grinding and test fitting.

 

We scanned a factory trans shim to get the initial dimensions. The dowels line up the plate and then we installed the trans on a level surface and used a transfer punch to mark all the holes. The input shaft is the same dimension as a stock Miata except longer so you don't need to mill te bell housing down. The 6 transmission bolts and input shaft align the trans to the plate.

Mighty mouse, you were right and I figured for te small notch to be made that was the best solution and I took into consideration te exhaust after you mentioned it.

I will keep you guys in the loop as things progress

 

Price point is in the $400 range, right?

 

Yessir

Plate+transmission should be close to what good 6speeds are going for with better gearing and stronger gears!

 

I am so stoked for this. Prepare to have more of my money thrown at your face.

Stronger transmission and better gearing that makes use of the cheap 4.30/4.10 rears.

 

How much is the PPF adapter?

 

Considering making a diff mount but depending on the car the generation and straightness of the chassis it may not really be one size fits all. It is a consideration though

 

yeah, i was about to say...PPF solution? That means a transmission mount AND a diff mount BTW.

Shifter?

Sorry, I don't follow. Correct me if I am wrong!

You drilled dowel holes to align plate to engine. Lay plate between trans and engine using engine dowel holes and transmission input shaft to locate the engine to the trans. But at that point only thing locating engine and trans is the transmission input shaft inside the pilot bearing, right? Use transfer punches to locate holes that attach plate to engine and to trans. Correct?

 

Do want

 

For the shifter, you just reuse the stock TII shifter. You will need to trim the back portion of the shifter opening in the trans. tunnel as the trans sits 1/2" farther back due to the 1/2" adapter plate you just installed.


Tim that's pretty much what I did as well. If you're feeling curious, I took a million pictures of how I did this in the early stage of my build thread.

 

That's cool. That all made sense in my head but I sometimes miss things. Wondered how someone could to it with basic tools. I do not know the accepted trans axis/crank axis concentricity (?) tolerance though.

 

This all makes me a little less sad that I've been carting a TII transmission around the country the last ~7 years. I even posted it on CL a few times for the kingly sum of $100 and could never sell it. Seriously, this trans has lived in Iowa, Illinois, and Ohio, someday it might live in a car again...

 

Basic tools and basic skills are not the same thing in this case.

Additionally this is laser scanned, cad designed and CNC machined so I wouldn't call it "basic" either.

Furthermore as far as the "centricity" there is a positional tolerance of diameter .010" on the maximum material condition from the nominal dimension. the rest of the plate has a profile tolerance of .015" from the max material condition.


The shifter will sit about 1/2"-3/4" further back than stock.

Later today I'll post a pic of the FINISHED prototype!!!!!