So here's my issue ... when I get into the throttle, the car veers right, and off the throttle, the car goes left. Here's the thing, my car aligned just fine (-2.5* camber all around, 0 toe, and -4.6* caster in front). Anyways, any idea what it could be?

Thanks!

93 miata
Spec Miata suspension
greddy kit at 10 psi
torsen with 99 axles

 

my little brother's '99 is having the same problem :(

 

what is your suspension setup? right off the bet i can tell you that you have too much camber in rear. another thing to consider is that torsen SUCKS ***. go for a clutch-type like a real man.

 

Too much camber in the rear? How so?

 

Yeah Urban. I'm sure that his problem is related to the type of diff he's runnin

If you're confident that your alignment is decent, I'd check your tire pressures. If you have a large enough delta between sides, it could make it pull to one side.

 

Amen to that brother.
My car is doing exactly that right now due to the difference in the tire pressure from left rear to right rear. A few days ago i ran across a big wire and punctured my tire, I plugged it right there on the side of the road, lost some pressure and have not inflated it properly yet, which I need to do.

ps-my friends NB had same issues, turns out he had a very small leak at the valve.

 

If you have torque steer in a Miata you have a larger issue. Torque steer happens on front wheel drive cars. What you have sounds like a bad tire. Cheap tires can also cause this type of behavior. Can also be tire pressure differences. Positive camber would not cause this as long as it's equal on the two sides.

 

Every time I've heard of this, it's been tire pressures.

 

Mine pulls to the left....simply because both the rear tires are spinning....

check your tire pressures...why do you have -2.5 all around?

 

what about engine and diff mounts?

 

Alright, I'll check the tire pressures as well as rotating the tires left to right and seeing if the behavior changes.

The Diff mounts are fine, I just put the diff in and put in new bushings. The engine mounts will be replaced shortly with Function7 units, as soon as they come in.

I have -2.5* camber all around because I track the car on a bi-weekly to monthly basis for extended periods of time and I need all the help I can get to keep the car stable. Anyways, I'm racing with BenR and we have a $50/tire challenge and he's a MUCH better driver than I am, so I'm playing with alignment settings in an effort to make my car more stable so I can get on the power sooner without just powering into a drift.

 

Did you get your car back together? Did the tire pressures solve this issue? Are you going to be ready to run on the 15th? PM me or give me a call sometime before hand, I'm probably going MS soon and want to take a look at your spark map.

 

x2

 

Like has been said before: it's the Torsen combined with different tire pressures left to right rear.

 

Could be tire pressures, could be (most likely) a bushing problem. How many miles are on your car?

I'd do a quick spot-check of all your control arm bushings. If their's a problem, often you won't even be able to see it. But if you do see a bushing completely destroyed/deformed, then you know theirs a problem.

It sounds like it could be bump-steer problems caused by deflection of a dead bushing.

 

The tire pressures were off a touch, but that wasn't the problem ... I had two brand new tires on the passenger side and two used ones on the driver side. I swapped the driver-rear and passenger-front tires and voila! Problem solved! The circumferences of the tires (new vs old) was enough to cause that nonsense.

 

Really? You didn't think about that in the first place?

 

+1...fail.

 

Better start remembering that medication! The obvious answers might come to you quicker.

 

I just waisted 5 minutes of my life on this.