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Old 10-17-2009, 07:12 PM   #61
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Based on the valve covers, it looks like a SBC in that 911?
Those are some rather large rear tires.
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Old 10-18-2009, 01:33 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by Toddcod View Post
A 5.0 L is a beast too. I realize that everyone wants the weight benefit. And the Lsx comes already 290+ hp. Which bang for buck is best.

But If you give me a basic 5.0Hp. I can get some cheap used heads.
That car will be a torque monster and a beast.

I love 5.0's. You fart in them and they run. They have the bore of a 350 with a tiny stroke. they rap hard and fast.
And you can find a used supercharger for $1000 every week.

You can push 400-500 hp easy.

If someone knows what they are doing, on a cheap budget, and can't afford the 250 bucks for used Gt40 heads. The stock heads and intake, can be hand worked to make good power up to 5800rpms as well.

But if I didn't just have everything laying around, I would go get the 5.3L Lsx out of a truck. 290Hp for $450.

Light and cheaper for 320hp if left stock. But if your going for 450+ hp. You will probaly spend the same either way, and the ls1 would probably be stronger, if the motors are not built..

500hp the 5.0L splits

Some have made more on the Ls1. I don't know how long it would last though.

I'm learning how easy it is to get good power from my 5.0. Gonna be fun. Originally, I planned on just putting it in, getting it running and then mod it. But, I'm thinking that it's getting heads, cam/intake right off the bat.

I've debated turbo but don't know if I can fit it. Gonna get it in first and see if there is room.

The main reason that I did the 5.0 was cost and the fact that it is more DIY friendly. I REALLY DO think that I can do the whole swap for $2K, not counting upgrades. That gets me 200 WHP Mods will be another $1K and get me to 300 WHP+.

83 T bird w/ 93 Mustang swap $850 (bought)
93 T bird for IRS (plus 5.0 core) $100 (bought)
Axles for IRS-new BTW $220 (bought)
Headers $250 (need)
Broach Miata hubs for T Bird spline $250?
Used aluminum heads $600-800 depending on Edelbrock Performer or AFR 165's
Used E303 cam $100
V8 Explorer intake manifold (flows as well as the Cobra intake) $150 with bigger injectors
Plus misc stuff. I'm swapping over my Koyo radiator, Tein Flex, 6UL's
I'm fabbing the diff hanger and modifying the front subframe myself.
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Old 10-18-2009, 09:44 AM   #63
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I've debated turbo but don't know if I can fit it. Gonna get it in first and see if there is room.
Rear mount. Lots of space at the back of the car under the trunk. If I did it that is what I would do. Who knows, maybe someday I will, and then it will be a 'turbo Miata'.
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Old 10-18-2009, 12:08 PM   #64
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Rear mount. Lots of space at the back of the car under the trunk. If I did it that is what I would do. Who knows, maybe someday I will, and then it will be a 'turbo Miata'.

If understand this, I'd run both exhaust headers into, say, a single 3" exhaust, run it to the rear to the turbo and then just a hella long charge pipe back up front with no intercooler? From what I have read, 6 psi on a stock 5.0 gets you to 400 WHP.
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Old 10-18-2009, 12:24 PM   #65
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From what I have read, 6 psi on a stock 5.0 gets you to 400 WHP.
You read wrong or some people are lying to you. You can get 400 whp out of a stock 5.0, but not on 6 psi.
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Old 10-18-2009, 12:28 PM   #66
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OK, what would 6 psi give me? If I do this, it will be bargain basement DIY so no intercooler, minimal management. Just wondering.
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Old 10-18-2009, 12:33 PM   #67
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Somewhere between 300-325. Get a meth kit and turn up the boost.
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Old 10-18-2009, 02:12 PM   #68
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[QUOTE=Stein;469896]I'm learning how easy it is to get good power from my 5.0. Gonna be fun. Originally, I planned on just putting it in, getting it running and then mod it. But, I'm thinking that it's getting heads, cam/intake right off the bat.

I've debated turbo but don't know if I can fit it. Gonna get it in first and see if there is room.

The main reason that I did the 5.0 was cost and the fact that it is more DIY friendly. I REALLY DO think that I can do the whole swap for $2K, not counting upgrades. That gets me 200 WHP Mods will be another $1K and get me to 300 WHP+.

Headers $250 (need) corral.net $40.00- $75.00 + used
Used aluminum heads $600-800 depending on Edelbrock Performer or AFR 165's ( Don't get eddlebrock unless dirt cheap, I heard the others perform better) And for that $$$ you can get great heads on those forums. Like used premium worked heads.
Used E303 cam $100 (I love that cam)
V8 Explorer intake manifold (flows as well as the Cobra intake) $150 with bigger injectors (DFWstangs.net, corral.net) Cheaper if patient, sometimes craigslist,

You can also port match the stock lower 5.0 intake and it is the same as the GT40 lower intake.

used Gt40 heads are cheap too. $250 complete. +40hp. And you don't loose gas mileage with these. Not as much gain for track. but better for daily.

And then a random Supercharger $1000.00 used, or 1799.00 for new Vortech ebay sales.

I had found a few used Novi 2000 kits for the 5.0 for $1500.00. That kit can produce over 700hp easy. but can blow a motor pretty easy too, and more spool time. But plenty of room for growth. With base hp boost to 360hp. (YEA)

yea I just sold the 5.0 I had.

mine was a drag car that would raise the front tires off the ground everytime with slicks. I couldn't keep my foot out of it. And with 4:10 gears it drank gas.

If you babied it I would get 17-20 on the highway.. If I played 10mpg.

If you run 373 gears you will easily get 19-23 miles per gallon. 355's which would probably be best for that light car. 21-26 with EFI. 327's Stock gears in newer 8.8's hint hint. 24-27 and have heard of some getting 28. i never could get over 26. But that is still good.

if you get those beast heads (Dart, world, trickflow, etc. etc.etc...) I don't know what mileage you will get. but who cares with that power.

And for $250 or less you can get a used typhoon intake. That is almost a perfect knock off of the eddelbrock performer. I had that one, It was great, gives good power cheap.

Ok, I'll stop rambling. I'm stoked about your build.

Good Luck!
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Old 10-18-2009, 02:18 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by Stein View Post
OK, what would 6 psi give me? If I do this, it will be bargain basement DIY so no intercooler, minimal management. Just wondering.
Do you have the GT motor or the T bird motor? I'm not for sure if the t-bird has the forged pistons. i'd check.

If you can fab cheap turbo,, really cool. But If the cost is the same. I might consider Supercharger just for the room constraints. But either way it is sweet.
If you do go supercharger. Get one that rebuilds cheap.

Good Luck!
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Old 10-18-2009, 02:36 PM   #70
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40hp from GT 40 heads is BS, aint gonna happen. Port matching stock intake just as good as aftermarket GT 40...BS. Typhoon Intake, I had one, chinese garbage
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Old 10-18-2009, 02:39 PM   #71
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I think a slightly more exciting way to do the LS swap would be to get an aluminum block 5.3 truck motor and throw a medium sized single turbo on it. I've been talking to a friend of mine with an LS camaro, who got interested in the turbo idea from me and he's got me interested.. Damn you guys, just when a turbo miata was cool you have to go and up the ante..

Michael
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Old 10-18-2009, 02:51 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by TheBandit View Post
I think a slightly more exciting way to do the LS swap would be to get an aluminum block 5.3 truck motor and throw a medium sized single turbo on it. I've been talking to a friend of mine with an LS camaro, who got interested in the turbo idea from me and he's got me interested.. Damn you guys, just when a turbo miata was cool you have to go and up the ante..

Michael

Only if you put slicks on it and us it for a drag car. That is far more power than you can put to the ground in a miata...no traction, and don't even think of touching the throttle in a turn. If you want a car where you can just show off wheel spin, I guess it would be OK.
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Old 10-18-2009, 04:03 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by msydnor View Post
Port matching stock intake just as good as aftermarket GT 40...BS. Typhoon Intake, I had one, chinese garbage
Lower intake. And it may be the lower truck intake, now that I think of it. Alot of guys here port the lower and buy the GT40 upper. Cheaper and still good results.

I never had any trouble with my Typhoon or the proffessional products throttle body.. Ran hard.... Did you have any problems with yours?

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Originally Posted by msydnor View Post
Only if you put slicks on it and us it for a drag car. That is far more power than you can put to the ground in a miata...no traction, and don't even think of touching the throttle in a turn. If you want a car where you can just show off wheel spin, I guess it would be OK.
True that. I imagine it would be hard to control even punching it from highway speeds.

Last edited by Toddcod; 10-18-2009 at 04:21 PM.
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Old 10-18-2009, 04:11 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by Toddcod View Post
Lower intake. not upper. Around here alot of people port the lower and buy the GT40 upper. If you have the cash buy both. Dollar for hp it isn't worth it to me.

I never had any trouble with my Typhoon or the proffessional products throttle body.. What problems did you have?

The lower intake ports do not line up with the heads, the holes are off. If you pay someone to port match it, you may as well have bought the Edelbrock. Maybe if you do it youself it's worth it. It did make more power than the stock intake with the upper and lower. On the TB, it gave my stang an irratic idle. I ended up switching to a BBK TB
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Old 10-18-2009, 04:58 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by Stein View Post
If understand this, I'd run both exhaust headers into, say, a single 3" exhaust, run it to the rear to the turbo and then just a hella long charge pipe back up front with no intercooler?
Not sure about the no intercooler part, but otherwise yes that is the idea. STS does it in their kits...
Squires Turbo Systems - Turbocharged Innovation!
The other thing to take care of is the oil supply/return for the turbo (and the water supply/return if it is water cooled). Either that or create its own closed loop oiling system.
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Old 10-18-2009, 05:34 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by Toddcod View Post
Do you have the GT motor or the T bird motor? I'm not for sure if the t-bird has the forged pistons. i'd check.

If you can fab cheap turbo,, really cool. But If the cost is the same. I might consider Supercharger just for the room constraints. But either way it is sweet.
If you do go supercharger. Get one that rebuilds cheap.

Good Luck!
It's a 93 Mustang motor. That said, they stopped the forged in 92. 93 has cast.

I will have a T bird motor to play with as well.

I'm not going gt40 heads, mainly so I can drop 50 lbs up front. Performers have to be $600, otherwise I can hopefully find the AFRs for $800. Some are still trying to get $1000 for the AFRs but that was pre-recession.

If I can't find anything cheap I may just DIY port the E7's. Pretty good writeup at diyPorting.com.

I've been trying to get on corral.net for a week now. They won't activate me.

Also, can't do cheap headers. Fitment is a problem. Someone figured out that you can run the left side from some 60's something and the right from some 70's something from Heddman. Hopefully, they let me order a mixed set, otherwise, it's $170 per pair and I'm throwing half of them away.

Last edited by Stein; 10-18-2009 at 05:47 PM.
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Old 10-18-2009, 06:26 PM   #77
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No real difference between a 5.0 from a T-Bird and the stang...at the power levels you are talking, pistons won't matter if they are forged or not. The block will crack around 500 hp. You won't drop 50 pounds going from iron to aluminum heads, maybe 20-25. GT 40 heads come in several variations, many of which are aluminum. Don't waste time or money porting stock E-7s. If you area really on a tight budget and can do you own porting it would be worth a few HP. I'd save for some real head. There are so many to choose from if you wait and look around you find find a nice set of used ones at a decent price. If you find anything by AFR less than $800 consider yourself lucky. You might find a set of used 185's for that.
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Old 10-18-2009, 11:54 PM   #78
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It's not really abudget thing, per se. I'm just seeing how inexpensively I can get a 300WHP V8 Miata. It seems that the M.netters all seem to think that you have to drop $12-18K to build a V8 Miata. I'm just going to prove them wrong. It's my winter project. I do one every year to pass the time. Sure, you can drop $4K and buy Martin's kit and supposedly do the swap in 40 hours. I don't see it but whatever. I imagine that I will have 300 hours in a true DIY swap. Got nothing but time as winter arrives.
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Old 10-19-2009, 12:13 AM   #79
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I mentioned one of the more important reasons a Vette is better than a Miata only in passing. Bolt-on 14-in. or 15-in. (not really necessary) brake kits that work. Stock 1.8 brakes suck, even if you spend enough money on pads to keep them working on the track. They'll be completely overwhelmed with LS power. And there are no upgrades commercially available that are good in all the ways brakes should be. Don't make me respond to every product by name. I know what's out there. None is as good as what you can bolt onto a Vette.
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Old 10-19-2009, 01:23 AM   #80
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Vettes are pigs...it cost a lot of money to get one under 3k pounds...they need some serious brakes for that alone. The biggest advantage of the vette are the wheelbase and width. Unfortunately it will cost you twice as much to keep on track for the same lap times. I know from experience. I love vettes, don't get me wrong. Yes you can get one for 20k and head to the track, but its going to cost a lot more than that to get it reliable and they eat tires like baseball players eat sun flower seeds.

I just got my 94 back, so its going to hit the track as SM and the 2000 is getting an LSX drivetrain. Hell yeah!
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