We switched to Elf synthetics last year from Performace Oil Store . Car seems to run a bit cooler on the track.

Feff

 

*****...


5w is fine in a synth. Once you get it up to temp though, the advertising goes out the window. Mobile 1 0w30 is know to stay thicker at temp than any other grade they make, or just about anyone...its the DI pack and shear problems that suck (only in a turbo car).

 

K&N oil filters are junk fyi guys i noticed faster cloging and overall worse oil flow with the ones i tried the mazda filter is the best i have tried bar none.

 

Either way, Rotella T is kicking *** so far. I dont know if its just the fact Im running my new HLA's with fresh, non metal flaked up **** break-in oil for the first time, or if its just the oil is so kick ***. Cold start up tick is completely gone and I havent gotten the HLA's to make a peep since. Even driving around everything sounds better. I do think I feel a slight change in how the engine runs though, smoother and quieter. I also like seeing my oil pressure gauge show something other than ~30. I guess the old dino Valvoline had thinned out and wasnt making much pressure. Now Im seeing 60psi by 3500-4000rpm, where as before it would barely climb from 30. Dont know if that matters any though... I may give the RoRo Synth a chance next time though just to see how I like a 5W-40 though.

^
WIX is all my wallet opens for.

 

I use a mixture of Kitty litter and soap/water in my oil. Oil filters are over rated. But seriously, I'm using Mobile 1 5w30 and no HLA tick from doing the ExhIntake cam swap. Swap got rid of it.

 

i use wix filters too for the metal construction, not the glued cardboard. You're feeling new oil, but the pressure changes may be related to the oil. the magic in picking an oil is the UOA. Do it once to establish the pattern, then leave it.

 

Wix is a good brand filter I can get them through Amsoil, but Amsoil has there own brand that filters to a smaller micron, and the oil is good to, just search redline or mobile 1 or royal purple. It beats all of them in most tests and I say most because I know it dose not beat them in all the tests for all the types of oil.

 

Which oil vs which oil? Does the race oil contain more anti-shear than the 10w30? I'm asking because I'll consider buying 4-gallons.

 

Here is a link to the 10w30 race oil it has some specks and comparisons. Dominator® Synthetic 10W-30 Racing Oil (RD30)

 

Ever do that UOA??

How do you like the Rotella?


Bout to change out all my fluids and wanted to see what all ya'll were using on here.....hour later and I still hav'nt found 100% answer on what is the best oil to use for our application.....and am still looking to see what is the best for the tranny and rear end....

 

You will not find a 100% answer for any of them. There are too many variables, so it depends on who you ask, what has worked for them in the past, or even what they are selling.

Motul 300 in my 6-speed gearbox (recommended by Gary at TDR, works great), Rotella-T Synth in the engine (made for extreme duty turbo engines, gas or diesel), Royal Purple in the Torsen T-II diff (a synth that many use with good results).

 

Throwing in $.02 here:


I used to swear by Mobil 1 in every other application I've used, and stood by it since a family member works for them...but I will not put it in the Miata again.

I change oil religiously in all of our vehicles, and can usually still see the other side of the garage through the stream when I drain it. Obviously turbocharging requires a lot more from oil, but I didn't expect to see the THICK BLACK CRAP that came out of my motor 2500 miles since going turbo.

I had already bought more Mobil 1 10W-30 full synthetic before I pulled the plugged, but this gallon is coming out in 1500 miles and I'm definitely trying something else.

I'm thinking the Rotella. This was THE oil (in dyno form) to use for the Kawasaki twins, and I'm willing to drop coin for the synthetic version considering it's:

 

Still running Mobil Delvac 15w50 (10w50?) in the miata. Another track day done on fresh oil and no issues. Thats a total of 5 total days on 2 oil changes with it at 90k miles. 94k now.

I'll try to update this as I add events and oil changes per. I try to do one per 2 day event.... the oil is cheap.

 

Thats interesting... I've had honda application K&N Gold filters on the car for the last 5 events (2 filters now) and with my mobil Delvac oil I have great oil pressure.

Typical reviews of K&N filters is that they are of higher quality than a good chunk of others.

I'll keep using my Honda motor ones until they are gone... I had them stockpiled for my other cars.

 

Well, as usual, I just read another oil thread and no concensus. I guess I'll just run a quart of each to cover all of my bases.

 

Splittime,
That Delvac should do well also, because it is designed for the same harsh environs as the Rotella. They should be more similar than an auto oil vs. a diesel oil would be (ZDDP, detergents, extenders, EP lubricants, etc.).

 

I'm on ~3,000 mile Rotella 15-40 and its just now starting to make some HLA noise. I will change it this weekend, and go with the synthetic. My trans is running Royal Purple and seems to be fine. My trans is probably damaged from running it dry, so I can't say anything for sure there. Diff has been on Redline for probably 15k miles now, no issues there that I can tell.

Still WIX! Nothing else for my cars.

 

You didn't have to do that. I would have hooked you up at the discount price at no charge. You just have to call me.

 

After reading through some of this thread, here's my take on the subject, IMHO.

Diesel oil offers more antiwear/antifriction additives, and more detergents, but if your engine is letting oil past the rings and/or valve seals, the extra additives may clog the catalytic converter. I used to run a quart of Amsoil diesel oil with the Amsoil 10w30 in the crankcase of my super/now turbo'd Miata, that has seen open track weekends.

Rotella is supposed to be pretty good oil, esp for the price, but I've never used it. Redline IMO is good oil. Royal Purple is a short term oil, shears too quickly. M1 used to be Group 4 base stock, now it's Group 3 from what I've read.

I run Amsoil 10w30 or 10w40 in my engine, GL5 gear oil in my 6 speed, and 75w90 Severe Gear in my differential. The car was supercharged when it was running open track weekends down here in sweltering South Florida. The heat down here is definitely going to test a lubricant. I found the Amoil engine oil to function better in my engine than the M1 I used to run. Purely layperson, subjective analysis, as I didn't do a UOA, but the Amsoil had the engine running quieter, startup was quieter, the color stayed clean longer, it didn't burn off as quickly, and the temp gauge reflected a cooler operating temp, compared to the M1 10w30 I used to run. I have forged pistons in the engine, and the cold startup difference was night and day between the Amsoil and M1, even after several thousand miles on the Amsoil.

As for oil filters, Wix/Purolator, M1, Amsoil are what I'd run. Wix/Purolator are great bang for the buck, M1 is good, but costs me the same as Amsoil, and the Amsoil oil filter is still better.

I became an Amsoil dealer because I was buying enough product I figured I might as well sign up for the best deals on the stuff.

 

Just to report back on going from Rotella dino to synth, I don't like the synthetic nearly as much. Never seems to run as smooth, engine feels more "loose" if one can tell from feel and sound. I also have a lot more HLA noise on start up than I did with the non synthetic Rotella. I will be changing back soon. I kind of knew I wouldn't like it because it was so thin, and I was right. Should have stuck with my gut. Plus non synth is like $12/4 quart jug vs. $22/4 quart jug. Not that