Just mix with some water and thin it out... I just don't have any confidence in oil that thin, even if it is engineered well and holds up fine. I will take a tiny loss of power to avoid feeling like I'm running water in my engine.

 

What weight do you run? Pardon me for not reading earlier in the thread to see what you use...

Edit: Is my running 5w-30 M1 the reason it takes my car a couple of seconds after start to register any oil pressure?

 

More fuel for the fire.... See attached. Notice where Rotella-T Synth is at on the list.

 

I run 5-40 right now, but want to go back to the 15-40. All cars take a second to register, but thinner oil I would imagine would show up sooner. I wouldn't think twice about it as long as its only a second or two.

 

Hmmm... can't ignore test results I guess. I still think from what I could see the non synthetic is some of the best I have ever used in terms of HLA noise and smooth running. Maybe I will try out the Delo 400 next. I have cases upon cases of it we use in our heavy equipment.

Bah, all of ours is CJ-4 Delo 400. Wonder how many different formulas they make and which they tested. Guess it was one of the synthetics.

If there was a Rotella T synthetic in 15-40 I would be over it like white on rice.

 

Unfortunately, the CI-4 plus rating is now history and CJ (the bottom of the list) will be the standard everyone will have to meet (thanks, enviro-*****). Tighter emissions standards means the removal of the good additive packets. If you find a jug of pre-CJ diesel oil on the shelf, buy it for me. You see how far down the new formulation of regular Rotella has fallen. The rest are right down there as well now that they have all been reformulated.

 

Ahhhh, interesting sixshooter. So you think the formulations shown in the paper are no longer applicable? In other words, if one ran a test on a current sampe of Rotella-T Synth it would not have the same additive package shown in the paper?

Shell still claims that Rotella-T Synth meets CI-4 and CI-4 plus
http://www.sopus-staging.com/staging...ic_TDS_v10.pdf

 

Wait... wasn't CJ-4 before CI-4 and CI-4 Plus? Did it go to CI-4 then they had to back it down to CJ-4 again?

I'm kind of digging the Pennzoil Long Life. 15W-40, easy to find and cheap.

 

Did you just say Pennzoil??!!

 

CA, CB, CC, CD, CE, CF, CG, CH, CI, CJ. There is a pattern here somewhere. There is an order to the lettering, but I haven't figured it out. Can anyone guess what the next one will be? Who here was asking about fortune tellers? Maybe they can find one and get the answer.

Seriously, the ones with C are for diesel oils and the ratings for gas engine oils start with S and the second letter proceeds in some strange order as they come out with new specifications. SG, SH, SI, SJ...

 

Ah, stupid me, I don't research oil ratings, my mistake. So then why is CJ-4 not as good as CI-4? Environmental reasons?

 

been running mobil 1 10w30 and has worked good. although i change my oil every track event which means monthly and usually only have between 500 and 1500 miles at that point.
wal-mart has 5 quart jugs (not 4) for 22.00 all the time. every 5th oil change is free from the leftover quarts. sometimes after a session in the summer i have some hla noise though.
before this last trackday last weekend, they were out of the 10w30 and had valvoline full syn. for 20.00/5qt. jug. so i tried it out. it seems to work better than the mobil 1 did! no noise after each session, it was super hot out and at this track there's a long straight and alot of high rpm running. no hla noise and car seems to run smoother and quieter. i have always used reg. valvoline in my reg. daily cars, but this was the first time in a track car and with full syn. i'm switching. oh, and i use royal purple in the torsen diff and tranny. and change them twice a year.

 

Dono if I said this in this thread or not, but I spun all the main/rod bearings in my '99 motor on Rotella T non-synth on the track. Don't know whether this is due to crappy oil or whether the non-synth just isn't designed to hold up at 300+ degrees.

I swapped to Redline 15w50 for the built shortblock.

 

Everyone now needs to find UOA's to compare the VOA data.

Savington...300* is pretty ugly on any engine oil. I'm sticking with rotella synth for one more track event until I can get oil temp under control and down to 230 or so.

NA6C, its time to evolve man. You don't need that super-thick oil and its probably doing more harm than good. I've seen cars at ALMS and RTA pouring "off the shelf" 0w40 oils in the motor. Its 2009, time to evolve. I bet that if you look at an oil analysis you'll find that you're not getting the oil hot enough to drop viscosity to the target your engine wants.

 

I clearly haven't done as much reading on the subject as some of y'all, but from perusing the bobistheoilguy forum it seemed like Mobil 1 0w40 tests pretty well so that's what I run. The price is right when Advance has 5 qts plus a Mobil 1 filter for $30. It's much better in regards to HLA tick compared to the M1 10w30 I ran before that, in fact I get pretty much zero noise on startup. Maybe just a second or two on colder days but it's clearly getting into the lifters much quicker than the 10w30 did. I've had the current fill in there since October and it has four track days on it and a few (1500-ish) street miles in between. Some people change oil after every track weekend but it seems a touch unnecessary considering my use. Being N/A I don't put the oil through as much abuse but I might be curious enough to have a UOA done.

Had Redline MT90 in the trans and recently switched to flavor-of-the-month Ford Motorcraft synth at $18/qt. Feels about the same so far but I've heard it will get smoother over time, we'll see. Redline 75w90 synth in the diff.

 

Yeah I know it. My main issue is my car currently is my full time daily, and while I don't doubt the Rotella synthetic is a great oil, the HLA noise bothers me. I can live with it, but after seeing that the Rotella non synth may not be as good as I thought, I will probably not use it anymore. Then again, since my car is not yet turbo, and doesn't see the track, I don't see much problem with using lesser quality oils. I don't expect this engine will ever see boost anyway (or not much). I will buy another engine to rebuild correctly this time for boost.

 

I've been running m1 5w30 to ride the hla tick and now there is no tick unless I restart after being on the track. I'm going to do 10w30 on the next change though

 

Why do people think that switching to a thicker weight is going to pump oil through the lifters better when cold?

 

But you can also have tick from oil too thin, which is why some have a hot tick issue, and some have cold (some have both, like myself with the Rotella Synth). I was just thinking, even if the Rotella dino is crap compared to the synth, it still probably does better than most gasoline rated engine oils. Besides, most of us here will never get enough miles on our engines to matter since we will either blow up or change configuration/rebuild. So I'm not too worried about it any more.

 

Went to Rotella T Synth this weekend (5w40) at $19/gal. Did notice the 1-2 second to register any oil pressure, but after that it managed to sit solid. Still have my HLA tick (yay), but then again I had it with the Mobile 1 (10w30).