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I decided that won't work. At least, it won't be quite as easy as I'd hoped. It appears the upper control arm is bent. I tried my best to line my cell phone up the same way on both sides--centered on the hub and pointing directly at the center of the shock body.
Right side.
Left side.
I can't believe I didn't notice that. I had no problem getting the long bolt out. I don't see how a bent lower control arm could cause that offset. I put a jack on the control arm under the shock bolt and raised the assembly. There doesn't seem to be any binding of the shock.
It is just pressed thin gauge metal, not really surprising given the photo of how the fender has been impacted. Unless there are impact marks on the shock body it should be ok but I'd take the springs off and work the rod to ensure no sticking is happening, that would not do the handling any favours. I'd also roll the long bolt on a flat surface, t'be sure t'be sure (or use a straight edge).
I'd be wondering about that LCA now too ... and thinking that the odds have shortened on the K-mount (the upper suspension mounts seem to be the common failure point). If it were me I would replace the LCA (and the upper too of course), and do the alignment before worrying too much about the K-mount.
Well considering the lower control arm is what locates the bottom of the shock, a bent lower arm could definitely cause the shock to be off center in the upper control arm. I’d replace both to be safe. Removing the spring and cycling the shock is a good idea too.
This is what the right, non-impact, steering knuckle looks like.
I grounded a piece of aluminum as a straight edge against the D-shaped hunk of metal on the knuckle by my thumb. I could not slide the aluminum angle down any further and keep it flat against the knuckle. Note the position and orientation of the boss for the tie rod end.
Here's a similar pic from the impact side.
The "arm" with the tie rod end boss has been bent inward and rotated. When I installed the spare inner tie rod I had about 30 degrees of toe out. The junk yard knuckle I obtained looks like the right side. I'm surprised the knuckle could be bent and twisted that much without showing any obvious cracks or discoloration. I must have stared at the two knuckles for an hour before I realized one was bent as ****.
Since I needed to replace the left upper control arm, the steering knuckle, tie rod and rod end, and the ball joint just to see if she would take an alignment, I said eff it fixed the whole thing. I replaced the left lower control arm with a spare, and put in two new Mazda comp bushings. I removed and cleaned both Xidas, and replaced the ball joint, tie rod and rod end on the right side. I took the time to recenter the steering wheel. I set the alignment bolts for max camber and eyeballed a quick toe adjustment using a yardstick. She ended up with a rough -3.7 right, -3.5 left with my weight in the car and weights to simulate the bumper cover, intake plumbing, fender, and my soul.
Everything is taking longer than I thought it would, and I keep finding things broken or bent. Yesterday I began the process of transferring the OEM-clone NB1 air dam and the brake duct inlets to the replacement bumper cover. I found that although the air dam looked fine, it had multiple broken mounting tabs and cracks. There are no new ones to be found in stock, so I spent time researching what glue to use, getting said glue, and doing the repairs in my unheated garage. I believe the temp caused the curing process to slow. I have one more crack to fix--it was on the opposite side from the rest. I'll be doing that in the house after all the parts and such warm up.
The "L" shaped bracket that holds the brake hard line at the rear of the upper control arm long bolt was bent. It took me probably half an hour to figure out a way to bend it back into place without just bending the horizontal portion of the "L".
I believe I will find VIR grass in various parts of the car for as long as I own her.
Glad to see you’re making progress to get your car back on track. Big projects can be a slog, ask me how I know…
Originally Posted by poormxdad
I believe I will find VIR grass in various parts of the car for as long as I own her.
I think I have finally removed the last of the red clay dirt from my car, maybe fifteen years after I spun into a mud puddle at Summit Point. You’ll get there.
I have her all back together, but there seems to be one lingering issue that might be impact related.
I have always needed to grind a little meat off the left tie rod end to prevent it from pushing the brake duct plate into the rotor. I had to do it when I got the TSE Brake Duct Kit, again when I went with the R-Package tie rod ends, and again when I installed the TSE BBK, It was never very much, but it had to be done. I expected I would need to do it with these new tie rod ends, but trimming a little off the rod end and tweaking the bends on the duct plate was not enough. The duct plate was tightly pinched between the rod end and the rotor. I actually needed to trim away part of the duct plate. I believed I had it conquered, but once I put weight on the wheels, the tie rod end still ground against the rotor. I did more grinding of the tie rod end, and again believed I had it fixed. I took her for her first drive since mid-Nov. Everything seemed fine until I made a tight left hand U-turn. I heard and felt some grinding. Sure as ****, the tie rod end was hitting the rotor.
I have replaced everything suspension and steering related on the driver's side except the shock. New ELBJs (first time I've used them), tie rods, and tie rod ends on both sides. There don't appear to be any components binding. She aligned well. Steering is smooth. She drove fine until I made that U-turn. There are no issues on the right side.
I could see where the rod end was touching, and ground some more meat off there.
I don't see how this could be impact related since the alignment went well, but I don't know what else it could be.
Again, any words of wit would be greatly appreciated.
That seems strangely tight. Are you running stock brakes? Of the 6 Miatas I've had, not one TRE has ever had less than ~1/4" clearance to the rotor, with no grinding whatsoever.
12-17-2022, 09:49 PM
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