dan91

This is one of the important questions:

I'm invested in this thread - I've got heavy doubles with +1/+2mm valves and a Hydra that will likely be replaced by something else.

Ted75zcar

iTrader: (2)

I think the short answer to this question is probably "both" with a bias towards solving it in the control system.

~wall-of-text deleted as an anti-thread-jack move~

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Imagine the rager that sjmarcy and Miata.net have right now, collectively.

Ted75zcar

iTrader: (2)

I am curious about this enough that I may experiment with this in the other direction. I am thinking that if the fuel table is tuned to represent the maximum VE in the transient areas, then the only side-effects of not having a determinate cam angle is that the car runs rich (actual VE goes down). I know that when I was really into understanding this thing, there was a very noticeable lull/lag/bog/call-it-what-you-want at tip-in that drove me crazy. Now that the injector timing table error has been fixed, it is possible that this won't be nearly as perceptible. I may even be able to get EAE to compensate for the inaccurate fueling, as it offers enough dimensionally to play around a bit.

HarryB

Unrelated request; can we change the thread title to VVT control strategies or something? Really liking this thread and might be useful to others as well.

dan91

Interested in the wall of text

Mr Plow

My VVT base duty cycle long term trims based on oil pressure continue to move out as the dataset increases with use. Lower oil pressures are trimming +2% and higher oil pressures are trimming -1% currently with quite a linear trend across the oil pressures.

I'm going to have a further play with my VVT PID tuning when I get the chance. I'm going to set up a test cam timing map based on a rotary position switch. Position 0 to 8 will be cam advance positions 0 to say 40. This should let me test the car in neutral at different RPM/oil pressures and let me knock the PIDs all back to zero then build them back up again trying approaches from P to D to I and P to I to D etc.

I'll also be able to set the switch from 0 to say 30degrees advance with a square on off request. I can then easily tune multiple times against this large request.

Not sure if the car will happily run like this at such low throttle positions but I'll soon learn through trying.

Mr Plow

I messed about with this last night. Interesting to tune against instant square wave demands. I think its only useful to get in the ballpark; as soon as I was driving I was then tweaking it again for the best result and response across the range of demand required from actual driving. Not convinced there was much gain as I started homing back in on values I was near before.

Barton is still leading the VVT tuning competition.

dan91

I'm at work, so I do not have the software in front of me. Is it possible to map VVT PID vs TPS with a Haltech? My thinking would be to use more aggressive settings at high throttle when RPM is changing rapidly and the cam timing target is also changing rapidly (relative to time in seconds), then use much less aggressive settings at low throttle openings so that it does not hunt while cruising.

Mr Plow

Pretty sure you can make the 2 axis whatever you want from the channels including TPS.

ChrisLol

Hi guys, I'm happy to see a Haltech* specific forum has popped up.

I haven't been around in a while because I am no longer turbo. I now have a compression bumped 1.8 VVT in the car and have had a much more reliable experience with it.
On the stock valve train, my VVT angle variance is never more than +/- 0.5º. I'd be happy to share my settings with anyone who wants them as I'm pretty sure we made some adjustments to PID settings from the base map.

I've been using a 36-2 trigger wheel using the "2JZ" trigger pattern. The tooth arrangement differences between the two engines don't matter. It's only the number of teeth that matters.
It calibrates for VVT position during the first few revolutions and remembers the home teeth location in relation to the crank wheel.

I've not had one trigger issue since converting to 36-2 and It might be my imagination but I feel like the engine runs smoother with it...

Mr Plow

I'd be up for trying these settings out of interest. I think that every car will have different settings due to oil, solenoid health etc. but interesting to see the delta. Setup parameters as well as base Duty and PID would be interesting. For example, the intake frequency is set at 500hz in the base map but I have read the Mazda setting is 300hz.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

I just bought my 1500, probably going to be waiting a few weeks though. Would be interested to see your settings, too.

Good to know on the cam signal. I really don't want to give up my 36-2 wheel.

And yep, sorry for the typo!

dan91

I haven't found a good black friday deal as of yet. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place

msmola2002

https://www.haltech.com/product-cate...k-friday-sale/


One of us! One of us! One of us!

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Sure hope that backorder delay is more like 2 weeks and not 4 weeks! Gives me time to come up with some canbus hardware, and adapt my gauge to the haltech format.

So, does anyone know the part number for the ECU connectors? I'm being lazy now, will come back with part numbers later if nobody else posts them. I do know it's cheaper to grab a set off ebay rather than through haltech.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Haltech-Eli...YAAOSw5PJbEIHV

dan91

Count me as part of the Haltech crew. Got a 1500, PnP adapter, and wideband controller. Time to un-Hydra my wiring

msmola2002

ECU Pins and Plugs Part Numbers | I fished the PNs out at mouser
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/571-4-1437290-0
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/571-3-1437290-7
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/571-3-1447221-4-CT
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...b4RBjNVQ%3D%3D

deezums

iTrader: (3)

You rock!

I like digikey, can order the pins in smaller increments there. Besides shipping I am pretty much at the same price as the ebay link I posted above, but with 75 pins, plus I know it's all genuine.

It appears the aux canbus port is a DTM06-4S, or DTM06-4S-E004 if you want a fancy matching black one. I think the pins are 1062-20-0122‎, and the wedgelock is ‎WM-4S‎.

msmola2002

Nice. I have a Google doc I have been compiling for all the haltech connectors. I also have the Tyco plugs that are used on the pnp units as well as mating females and they are also used on the io expander boxes. I need to clean up the formatting and post it here somewhere. Cos 75 bucks for a 24 pin plug and pins vs <10 from mouser sounds like a win.