So the thermostat that just came out of the car is a 160. The replacement stant is a 172. Which is right?

Car only has a cobb Dp and cobb stg 2 OTS tune

 

the 160 was not stock
the 17x is closer to stock

 

I think 193 is correct, or its 180.

 

Why do people still do that?

 

because lower thermostat temp magically increases cooling system efficiency by 20%

amiriteguyths?

derp

 

thats what i figured. the original owner did a lot to this car, most of it very tasteful. this is the first dumb mod ive found.


i noticed the water pump gasket is an embossed aluminum deal and the factory didnt use any sealant, which is really nice. do you guys have any problem with a dry seal after breaking the original factory seal and use any RTV? or just put it together like the factory?

the 172 is what stant speced on rockauto as a stock replacement for an 05 LGT

 

With that kind, just put it back. If it's started to delaminate or peel, get a new one.

 

My t belt kit came with a paper gasket. I drove to the subaru dealer and bought a metal gasket for $11. Because **** those paper things.

 

Paper gaskets work well, provided you use the proper sealant. Indian Head shellac is the cat's *** for plain gaskets. Never had one leak, ever.

 

I replaced those without any sealant and worked fine too.

I love o-rings, they are win

 

I know that back in the 80's/90's people in the 5.0 Mustang community used to put lower temp thermostats in cars to try to "fool" the early EFI computers into staying in warm-up mode. The theory was that it would run slightly richer and make like 2 more HP? I could see that mindset carrying over but that does not make it any less stupid.

hi_im_sean: be prepared for your heater to actually work now

 

my tbelt kit came with a nice new embossed aluminum shim gasket just like the oem. i was just asking if the gasket will hold without sealant after brinelling of the sealing surface from the original gasket and 100k miles. the water pump had a few nicks on the surface right at the embossed line that i know wouldnt seal, so i used some rtv anyway.

its all done, that was one of the easier timing belts ive ever done.

my heater did always take a while to get warm.

 

Question: I have 05 Outback XT Limited, Stage 2 with access port. Can I modify the drive by wire maps so throttle opens when I tell it to instead of a second later?

 

No. You can try, and you might make some improvement, but I have the same car and have tried to re map the throttle without success. Do you have the same trouble with stalling as I do? I stall that car at least twice a week because I let the clutch out before the throttle responds.

 

I was really hoping the answer was yes. I hate that lag, and yes it has caused me to stall when I forget which car I'm driving.

 

I dont really notice the throttle lag on my tune but it was certainly there stock. Sometimes the throttle doesnt blip when I blip it to downshift but I blame it on operator error.

 

Hmm. My 05 OBXT Limited throttle is pretty much spot on after updating my map. I got most of it off romraider's forum. There's a delay factor for closed/open loop fuel i think, and I made it zero. OEM Map was horrible.

 

you can tune it out. at least a lot of it, it is still a low comp lumpy boxer with 4 miles of exhaust piping after all, lol....and no it's not the cl/ol delay
you want to look real close at not only the requested torque tables for dbw, but also the throttle angle tables. I forget how many the older EJ255's have, but I think its at least 1 each, newer cars have 2 or 3 each, and some up to a total of like 7, all of which have to play nice together to work properly.

I forget the threads where we discussed this, and I know me and scott talked about this on gchat a ton of times, but try googling "romraider linear throttle" or something, and copy those settings at least up to about 50-60%. You don't want to do it all the way to 100% or your car will actually feel slower, I usually try to ramp up by 70-80% at least to make sure you get that "kick" lol

if I don't totally forget about this when I get home today, I can post some examples.

 

be careful ramping it up too much from idle or you'll look like a n00b trying to fast-n-furious launch from every light


*edit: oh and the req torque and commanded throttle angle tables have to be very proportionate, so there's a lot more to it than it first appears, you can make your car act like it has a seizure if you make them lopsided. study what the OEM has done with the approach before you go modifying it based on what you think it should be like.

**edit: and there are quite a few other tables affected by this and changes to this............

 

Holy **** this all sounds so complicated and like nothing I feel like dealing with. I should just pay you to tune my car next time lol.