I don't know how humans pedaled before clipless pedals existed.

 

'Gnolo won't leave you like that. 'Gnolo cares.

 

Not ready to make that jump. I've hit roots here that have put me at a dead stop at 12-15 mph. Not sure how I'd handle that situation clipless. I'm way better at planning my line ahead now, but still..

 

Some people are thinking flats are actually more efficient. DOesn't matter though- you can make more power with clips, and your feet don't fall off as easily when pedaling through the bumps on a MTB.

 

Just buy the SPD pedals and get some shoes like the DZRs or Chromes. Good compromise.

Once you go clipless, you can't go back.

 

I ride clip or clipless or wtf ever you call them 99% of the time. At times I will ride flats on a downhill bike depending on what type of riding it's going to be.

One thing I find difficult when I ride flats is that I never get my foot in the same or exact position. Maybe that's something I've just grown accustom to with spd pedals and I'm just out of my comfort zone... idk. I will say that with really good flat pedals and legit shoes made for flats (510s) it's nearly impossible to just slide and reposition.

TLDR? clips 4 lyfe.

 

Thinking about materials order for my single bike build.

what bottom bracket standard will stand the tales of time best in the future and have the best performance?
Threaded bottom bracket will probably last forever, but will any of the BB/PF bb types catch on for keeps?


Im thinking of running PF30 for the frame build, but im not familiar with which one is most common.

 

I wouldn't worry too much about which bottom bracket standard you go with. If this is a custom built frame, you could always ask the builder for a recommendation. Otherwise, I don't think the PF30/BB30 standard is going anywhere anytime soon.

For some further reading on BB standards: Complete guide to bottom brackets - BikeRadar

 

Clip pedals = toe cages

Clipless = the thing with the cleats

 

 

Custom build.
As in I'm building it.

Sram apex group on an alloy frame with road discs

Going carbon seat, post, stem and bars... Maybe even carbon wheels some point.

 

I would personally prefer bb86/bb90. I think the bearings last a bit longer than bb30, but you have to use a 24mm spindle crank.

However, I have heard that it is difficult to weld a pressfit BB and not have it distort and creak pretty easily. A threaded BB is easy to face and tap.

 

British thread unless you are being pedantic about weight.

 

I still have the clanking cassette, which makes me crazy. When I'm in the 18-tooth, the chain just barely climbs one of the flat teeth on the 17-tooth. If I adjust the RD inboard, it won't shift from the top. My old cassette, on the same wheel, with zero adjustment does not do this. I laid it down on a machinist-straight and it's pretty damn flat. What is wrong?

 

SRAM?

 

6800. I'll take a video when I get home. This stuff is not that hard, I'm almost certain it's a problem with the cassette. The chain should not climb the lower cog at all, right? The thin, sharp teeth pass just fine, but the one flat, square tooth always lifts the chain just a touch.

 

My new toy and first road bike ever!

Nothing too fancy, alu frame, carbon fork, 105 everything

 

Fancy enough. I picked up a used Giant Defy this year as well with the black 105. For what I do its great.

 

Good find Dalardan, needs some serious de-Fredding. 10 minutes is all you'll need to fix the stem, saddle height, and dork disc.

 

Cross crew, how much do I want a chain catcher? Poverty FSA double, Praxis rings.