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Did he up and back it or something or road climb and then come down? What was his route?
Dunno the route. He and 3 other really strong riders. He said it included an hour or two slog up a fire road/wash. No shuttle. They were all on 5-6" bikes with 2.4's and stuff. Like I said, really string riders.
Dunno the route. He and 3 other really strong riders. He said it included an hour or two slog up a fire road/wash. No shuttle. They were all on 5-6" bikes with 2.4's and stuff. Like I said, really string riders.
Yeah there is a 3 mile sand wash in the middle that is less then ideal. We lucked out that the sand was a bit moist so it wasn't as bad as it normally is. This is definitely one of those rides you could do on a trail class bike, but i think the 5-6" bikes and big tires are the appropriate hardware. Some of the sections get a bit roudy... not like, laguna roudy but higher speeds for sure.
Edit: They took Dunn road up to the top which makes sense. I'm actually surprised that it only added another 15 miles or so of distance to the ride (but a whole **** load more climbing). That would be a really tough ride for me to pull off but I think on the right day i could manage it. Absolutely no way i could do it in that time frame... would likely take me 8-9 hours.
I've officially moved from huggies to pull ups. I've been putting in some training hours lately to try and improve my abilities on the bike. 12 months ago I would struggle towards the ends of a 20 mile + or 3k climbing + mtb ride. Last night I was able to mash through a 26 Mile, 4,200' of vert night ride like it was nothing. Our pace was a social one, but the ride felt really easy and I feel great today. Pretty fricken awesome to be able to start knocking out rides like this and then still feeling like i could do another ride the next day. Stoked.
I'm making progress too - now about a month since picking up bicycle number 1, and averaging 150w over an hour ride and feeling pretty good afterwards. Probably doesn't sound like much to you beastmode types, but it's super nice seeing quantitative gains. A month ago 120w for 30 minutes left me feeling like death for a day.
Nice work fooger03- gains are all relative... that is good pace if you've only been riding a little while.
Speaking of- just did my 2nd ever FTP test this afternoon:
I'm gonna claim 308- that is what the avg power is and avg power was on the garmin. Not sure why weighted power would be less?
I did this in my basement- even with 2 fans going on max power I think over-heating was the limiting factor. I need to do the next FTP test outside.
Wind wasn't too bad. I train on the 88/disc to work my core and handling skills. I've always been pretty good at crosswinds n stuff. I love the bike. Great bargain if you are looking for a modern, hidden everything TT bike. Stock it locates the Di2 battery on the back of the post. I bought the non Di2 version, swapped Di2 on then put the battery in the seat tube. Light Bicycle 88's/Bitex/CX ray/Schwalbe One 25c tubeless.
Max HR is about 178 these days. When I'm really rested I sustain 164 or so in short races/hills. Trained hard last week so HR was even more Cummins Turbo Diesel than usual. Avg 151, max 160 on this TT.
Light Bicycle 88's/Bitex/CX ray/Schwalbe One 25c tubeless.
Regarding road tubeless: What is everyone's thoughts on road tubeless using a tire that isn't designated tubeless, say the Conti GP4000sii?
My bead of my specialized turbo pros hook into my lightbicycle rims pretty damn well, meaning it takes force to remove the tire from the bead seat. With a nice sealant, say orange sealant, would this not seal a standard tire?
I guess I don't know the physical differences between a standard clincher and the schwalbe one tubeless. Is the carcass sealed better? Bead shaped different?
I was going to throw the GP4000's I got from trey onto my LB wheels without sealant and see how it looked, but you all know more than me and I don't want to hurt anyone.
DO NOT attempt to run non tubeless road tires without tubes. They will de bead, 100% guaranteed. Ugly crash, if you are lucky.
Rule of thumb for any tubeless bike tire is that they should be difficult to mount with two stiff tire levers. If they are not difficult to mount, or require only one lever to dismount, they can/will burp or de-bead.
DO NOT attempt to run non tubeless road tires without tubes. They will de bead, 100% guaranteed. Ugly crash, if you are lucky.
Rule of thumb for any tubeless bike tire is that they should be difficult to mount with two stiff tire levers. If they are not difficult to mount, or require only one lever to dismount, they can/will burp or de-bead.
Thanks Emilio!
Do you mean any tubeless ROAD bike tire? I hope so because the tubeless ready mountainbike tires I installed on my not tubeless wheelset went on easily, using Stans parts. So far so good, but I only have 2 hours on them, easy singletrack stuff. (26x2.35 @ 21-25psi)
Is not the tire installation difficultly a function of the rim drop center depth (and to a degree the thickness of your rim tape)? I.E. Spesh Pros on my LB rims are an hour process with 2-3 levers and a lot of sweat. Same tires on my Fulcrums/shimano/cannondale rims are relatively easy single lever/few min affair.
Regardless, I will add the schwalbe's to my buy list.
I know you (emilio) recommended Orange brand sealant. Who's rim tape to you use?
Personally, I will not run any tubeless tire on any type of bike that is not difficult to install. I use Stan's usually. Dan's 29'r wheels weren't tubeless so we added 2 or 3 laps of Gorilla tape to tighten the bead. Dan doesn't believe but I am quite certain his broken collar bone 4 months ago was from his front de-beading. When I looked at his bike then, I could easily pull the tire off the rim with two fingers, no levers. Yikes. I would not let him ride it again until both tires snapped on tightly.
Frankly, the risk of severe injury is not even close to worth the few bucks saved by not getting the right equipment or taking the time to make sure its set up right.
Frankly, the risk of severe injury is not even close to worth the few bucks saved by not getting the right equipment or taking the time to make sure its set up right.
I completely agree. Schwalbe for me. That stan yellow tape was interesting stuff. I like it.
Last edited by TurboTim; 02-22-2017 at 08:50 PM.
Reason: Misread
I completely agree. Schwalbe for me. So you use gorilla tape to seal the nipple holes on your rims? That stan yellow tape was interesting stuff. I like it.
With one exception, all my wheels (9 sets?) are all tubeless rims so just Stan's or Reynolds tape. The one set that isn't tubeless has I think 2 laps of Gorilla tape to get the tires to snap on.
What Emilio said x100. There really isn't any reason to run non tubeless compatible wheels. I typically stick with stans wheels as well. But these days you can get wheelsets on ebay with wtb frequency team hoops for absolute dirt. You can get them in any size and several different widths for less then 150 bucks per set. They are boat anchory but brick **** house reliable and dirt cheap. These days 350-650 is a great sweet spot for really solid aluminum mtb wheels. You can get crazy and also go carbon, but i'm not a huge fan of carbon mtb wheels.
I digress... it's so damn cheap, why bother with anything else.
02-13-2017, 01:45 PM
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