Stupid question:
My daily riding buddy weighs 10lb more than me, rides the same training wheels, same bearings but he's on a Venge and I'm on an Evo and he's always coasting down hills while I'm pedaling, mimicking the same "tuck". Is that all in the frame or is there something else going on?

I think my next road frame will be a Venge, Propel, or the redesigned Evo in 5-10 years because my road bike and I are still in love.

 

Probably position and clothing more than anything. John and I train together quite a bit. I'm only an inch shorter but more flexible so I sit quite a bit lower on the bike. S5 with 404's compared to Cdale Six 1 with Kysriums. I out coast him by quite a bit bit I wear tight fitting kit while his kit is more typical club races kt that flaps around here and there. My bike def has less aero drag but I'm sure the bulk of the difference is my position and kit.

Just for laughs, as if he let you switch bikes for a coast down on the next medium grade hill.

I out coast just about everyone even when I train with a bunch of cat 1-2's on high end bikes. I see a lot of loose clothing. To me that's just like guys showing up to NASA championships in a PT car that isn't seam welded with all lexan windows. That's free speed your're giving up.

 

Certainly, the weight makes a difference. Speed on a downhill is the balance of the drag and frictions with against the force of gravity acting on the mass. He basically has the equivalent of more HP.

Others have discussed other variables.

 

Duh, never thought about switching bikes; we mimic the same position, and we typically wear the same kit. We are the most pro, always wear skin-tight kit, agree with you on tight-fighting race trim kit as a fundamental of performance.

My second crit is January 2nd,

 

2016 Specialized s Works Venge VIAS 54cm Dura Ace Di2 Quarq 11spd Aero Road Bike | eBay

 

Why am I looking at dirt cheap, used CAAD10 frames?

 

Things I recently realized because i'm a little dim sometimes:
1. If not using a power meter, be sure to accurately weigh your actual bike (not what the internet says) and all the crap you carry along when entering the bike weight in Strava. I start out carrying 4lbs of water; my shoes are surprisingly heavy.

2. Run the calibration on your smart trainer.

 

I agree TurboTim. I've found Strava's power estimations to actually be pretty accurate on steady climbs (with no wind) when your weight is set up right.

Emilio, I have a set of TT wheels I could sell you for cheap, if you'd rather buy some pre-made than build them. They're just Chinese carbon with a carbon disc cover, but they are very fast.

Pictured here on my bike in February:

 

Already have the parts I listed earlier but thanks. 88mm wide U clinchers and Wheelbuilder AeroJacket.

On a related note, just received the tires, S-Works Turbo 24C (front) and 26C (rear) clinchers ($) with latex tubes. If I like them on the TT bike, I'll swap them onto my Cervelo/404 FC's and upgrade to the S-Works tubeless versions ($$) for the TT bike. Swapping wheels isn't an option for TT's of course so I want that little bit of self healing protection the TL version with sealant offers. I prefer tubes for training since they're fast and easy to fix. Repairing a TL road tire in the field is miserable, BTDT.

 

Please refrain from posting TT bike photos in my awesome thread.

 

 

What's wrong with TT bikes? Too fast for you?

 

He'll be anti-TT until he borrows somebodies modern TT bike and demolishes a PR over some stretch of road. Then it'll be the new thing..

 

Is an open mouth part of the aero position?

 

 

I'm always looking to borrow.

 

Lower edge of Zone 5 for one hour is part of the TT position so, yeah.

 

My Christmas present to myself. Goodbye Kona, hello 2016 Stigmata CC.

CC frame (1104g), Hydro CX1, Zipp SL aluminum cockpit, Industry 9 Ultralite CX wheels (1462g w/ stems and tape). F/R thruaxles, disc brakes, clearance for 40s, and in the proper orange/blue. Just a hair over 18lbs with pedals, cages, and Garmin. I've had the frame since October but didn't get it built until Christmas and spent the last week screwing around with defective WTB tires. Finally got a first ride on a sloppy group ride this morning and it pedals like a dream. Super stiff, way stiffer than my S3 even through the 40C Maxxis Ramblers, but just as compliant as the Kona was over broken pavement or big bumps. IOW, it's everything the Kona was, but with discs and thru-axles. I'm in love.

 

Nice. I want a cross bike with hydraulic discs, but I'm not a fan of the way those Sram levers look.

 

Awwwww yissss! Glad to finally see it built! Ride the crap out of it!