Anyone familiar with the Stigmata cable routing? I watched the video and they still used cable-liner to fish the new cables through, brake and shift. I thought they were lines, wtf?

There is a 30-minute CX race on Saturday, this bike is about to get used.

 

Front brake is easy, obviously. Rear brake is a completely enclosed channel in the frame, so just push harder and wiggle and you'll eventually see it in the chainstay. Rear derailleur was guided by a cable liner, so I would buy a length of cable liner, tape it to the old cable, pull it through the frame, then use it to route the new one.

Front derailleur is for suckers to figure out.

 

lol @ FD.

Thanks for the info. Should I plan on winning this weekend?

 

Got a Park Internal cable routing kit to convert the Fuji TT bike from cable to Di2. I find myself using it on all my bikes since they all have full or semi-internal routing. Worth every penny.

Internal Cable Routing Kit | Park Tool



When cross season is over here ( two weeks ago), I swap my double chainring on for grinders and adventures rides. The typical big west coast grinder is 60-150 miles, 5-14k' gain with a few nice 20%+ dirt grades thrown in.
Even the pros run 34x32 for some events.

 

Oh goody, thanks.

 

sweet internal routing kit.

 

Nice. that'll help with the affordable DI2

 

That's 11s? Sweet.

 

105 is already 11s, so I would assume they wont step back.

interesting to know from a tech/engineers perspective what the functional differences are besides alloys used.

 

Needs affordable wirelessness.

 

Just like 11-speed Sram will come out with a force e-tap and maybe rival e-tap.

1-2 years.

 

I've chosen to skip the road-races this weekend and do the Saturday night CX race, lol. Five people entered, all college kids who work at bike shops. This is going to be pathetic.

 

Built a cruiser out of randoms this morning.

It's postal. Dura-ace 3x9. Weighs 20.03lbs with the muffin-*** saddle too.

 

Having just configured and built an all internal cable Di2 bike, I will not miss cables. Confusing compatibilty charts from Shimano and various vendors made it difficult to sort what I needed to buy. Then I needed to partially disassemble the bike to stuff all the junctions and stuff inside the frame. Cables strung all over, some too long so coiled up and zip tied in the frame. Too much tension on cable pops it out and system dies. Reroute that cable and improve strain relief. Took me probably 6 hrs in total.

Watching the e-tap setup video was funny in comparison; Install derailleurs, install shifters, tap a few buttons, go ride.

 

Emilio,
l'm guessing you prefer EFI over carburators, too. Who'd a thunk??

EDIT: Reading Fail... I was thinking Mechanical vs Electronics, rather than wired electronics vs wireless.

 

Serious question:
Has anyone ever tried to replace SRAM hydro hoods? I don't think it's possible without removing the bars and cables. Now I know why those QR links were there.

 

Behold it's majesty:

Will ride in 7 months.

 

How unreasonable is it that I'm going through wheel bearings in my road wheels every 4,000 miles or so? I lost another two today on a wheelset with 11,000 miles.

 

E TAP!

If any of you guys want a kit let me know.

 

Looking for a power meter solution for the cross bike that allowed me to swap wheels and chainrings and retain power. Browsing the Stages site and stumbled on this:

https://store.stagescycling.com/closeout-c32.aspx

Ended up ordering a 180mm 50/34 Rival GXP crankset with dual meters for $449. Wacky good deal, particularly as there were no other compact road 180's available period unless I built something custom. My current CX double cranks are the exact same model/size so a simple swap.

In the hours since I ordered mine, several options have disappeared. Jump on it now if you want.