emilio700

iTrader: (3)

Sweet bike. Once you go hydro disc with F&R through axles, the alternative seems archaic.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

When I was planning the build I debated going with RS685 levers and a 2x11 setup, and then my friend dropped his Shimano chain 4 times at a cross race that weekend and I decided I was never going to own a CX bike that wasn't 1x. If Shimano had a competing product to CX1 I would have serious considered/purchased it, but they don't AFAIK.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

Nice bike Andrew. Sell the Kona, or did it go on a wall like it should?

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Sold it to a friend. I wanted to keep it but couldn't justify it. After riding the Stigmata, I don't regret selling it at all.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Nice, the opposite of my pov CX rig.

Itty

That's pretty much my thought process as well. I really like the narrow/wide 1x setups for cross. I was thinking about running Shimano's hydraulic electronic levers and hacking it so that both levers on the left shift down and both levers on the right shift up.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

I never really liked the SRAM shift method. I have a separate set of 180mm Rival double cranks for grinders, 50/34 I think. Race cranks are 180mm D/A with a 40T thick/thin ring, K-Edge keeper and FSA carbon outer guide. I leave the left STI on the bike, just adding the cable after cross season is over. Last cross race for me is Jan 24th, first grinder Feb 7th.

Just the same, CX-1 is a fantastic and well proven CX specific group. I think that RD will accept a wide range cassette so one could use this for grinders where you lowest gear sometimes needs to be a good 20 inches shorter than lowest CX race gear.

Itty

I'm so used to riding a SSCX, I don't think I would mind not having the extra gear in the front. For the last 3 years, I've done all my CX training rides on my heavy steel single speed, geared at 39-17, going up some pretty steep hills (10 percent at times). I'm definitely used to "grinding it out" on the cross bike.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

The new long-cage CX-1 is compatible with the 10-42 cassette, but the jumps are big (all over 11%, two over 14%). The 11-36 with a 38T front ring gives me the same low gear as a 34/32 setup and a reasonable amount of flat ground speed (31mph on a 2200mm tire at 110rpm).

I prefer Campy shifters over Shimano and Shimano over SRAM, but they're all usable. The clutch RD is worth the awkward shifter, IMO - I don't have to run any chainguards in front and I've never dropped the chain.

Itty

I prefer the shape of Campy levers too, but Shimano have gotten quite a bit better over recent years. Here is what I would do to make sure the chain stays nice and tight with DI2: Mechanical Monday: Mountain Bike Di2 XTR with a Shimano Road Drivetrain and Shifters

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Bros in the know use an XT clutch RD for Shimano 1x set-ups. I'm not sure what's next for my CX bike, probably R685 as I can't afford SRAM 1x and don't know that I care to. I still have not encountered a bike with SRAM hydro shifters that do not contact my fingers when grabbing brake.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

785 levers with an XTR RD. though a bit more $ :P



I have a self assembled 785 group that Im putting onto the tandem bike I built.

785 levers
ultegra di2fd for double cranks
ultegra GS RD with wolftooth roadlink
11-40 xt cassette
saint calipers
XTR gear display -huge benefit on a tandem. I cant see the gears and need to keep mental note of where your position is with mechanical groups. not now!

This is a road bike, so I don't need clutched RD.






Also, rebuilding the tandem frame this year when I get time, but im not worried about getting that done. changing a few things up. dropouts are convertible to T/A, but I have QR inserts since I don't have the wheels or fork yet, 2" top tube vs 1" and removal of the diagonal bar among other minor geometry changes.

if I go to a new Thru axle wheelset that accepts 11speed road cassettes, I may step down to an 11-36. but with tandem power on road wheels, you really don't need that kind of gear spacing, I ended up double shifting almost every time. the only instance that the tight spacing was nice was when you were going up an extremely long, slow slope... like sustained 2% grades where you might be a bit low cadence in one gear but too high 2 gears up.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

Did you build that tandem frame yourself initially?

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

yeah, sure did.

full details, since BF embeds the photos once linked.
Custom Tandem Build.


I will be building a new frame with the above modifications, its relatively inexpensive now that im tooled to do it.

Chooofoojoo

iTrader: (7)

My new Red E-tap kit is on its way. Will report back with findings on production kits. (Proto kits were awesome)

dubya

iTrader: (1)

OP better deliver! I've been a bit out of the loop lately - do you know of a release date yet? Shimano's electric setup never appealed to me (I've never had any reason to move from mechanical groups, either), but man, it really seems like SRAM knocked it out with eTap.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

https://www.miataturbo.net/insert-bs...5/#post1299422

Follow link if you are interested. Discuss there please.
Order window shuts in one week. Email me today if you want in.

Chooofoojoo

iTrader: (7)

I expect to see it in the next few weeks. 2-3 is what my rep told me. There are still kits abailable on 1st shipment, I suggest you pester uour lbs to get one prebooked.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

Just got one of these. Ludicrous speed, go!




Here's a pic of me wearing it.

Stealth97

iTrader: (5)

So it's time for me to buy tires for my MTB. The factory ones pretty much sucked. I would love to get some big knobby ones for the trail, but honestly I spend most of my time riding in the neighborhood and parks with my 4yo 2-3 miles at a clip several times a week. Are there any 26" tires out there that are decent on pavment AND in the woods? Ideally I'd get a path / flat bar road bike for family rides but don't see that in the cards for awhile.