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New Pearl bibs are working out great. So is that saddle I got from Hustler, so far have done a 45 miler on it with literally no pain, with my old one i was feeling aches at the 25-30 mark on every ride.
Getting colder out, so I'll be picking up some warmers for this last month or two or road cycling and slowly transitioning back to my MTB in the coming months. Fall/Winter trail riding is great, awesome visibility with no leaves, bundle up so when I take a fall it's a bit more skid friendly, looking forward to it. Tossing around the idea of throwing some new tires on the FUEL, really like the Maxis Ardent but they might be overkill for the harder packed terrain we have around me, and the IKON is almost too XC oriented with very small *****.
The aspergers genius. Sure would like pro cycling adopt the league model. It's ridiculous that the event organizers hold the TV rights and not the teams. Bass ackwards.
The aspergers genius. Sure would like pro cycling adopt the league model. It's ridiculous that the event organizers hold the TV rights and not the teams. Bass ackwards.
I concur, the FIFA-like model seems to make for great stuff. I also liked that he showed some emotion, tagged along like a proper rich-dude.
Nice work there. A few questions that you probably answered for me already.
1. Where do you source your aluminum from? Nova Cycle Frame Supply out of Cali
2.That double butted? Yes, it is indeed.
3. Any idea the alloy? 7005 Aluminum
4.Do you heat treat the frame afterwards? Yes, I will have it heat treated even though its supposedly ok to age over a month post weldment. The frame is getting powder coated, so I am giving the artificial aging instructions to by powder coater. IIRC without the instructions I cant remember what it is.... but a few hours at a lower temperature and a few more hours at a higher temperature.... both easily attainable in a powder coating oven in terms of temperatures. That was the primary driver in 7005 alloy as opposed to 6061 that requires oil quenching and complex heat treating.
5. Why not steel? Steel is nice, but its heavy and likes to warp with heat.
I planned to do a steel with true temper but with them pulling out of the steel bike tube business I may go with someone else's 'kit'. Rowland Sach's frame kits are affordable. Check Nova Frame supply. they have all of the small bits to go along with the tubing. IMHO, the depths that tube offerings for cycle frames go into for steel with all of the nobium dipping and all of that **** is like building an engine with coated parts. The engine will make the same performance without the coatings, its just the last percentage at that point. Tube choice (size, thickness, butting profile) has more effect than a special expensive tube. Shape tubes are neat, but are tough to hold to mitre unless you CNC some tube blocks for it.
I have my first cross race tomorrow. It's been raining here 11 of the past 14 days, and it's torrential at the moment. Should be interesting!
Thanks dude... Came on here to send you a PM by the way!
answered questions above in bold.
XTR 11s Shadow Plus with 50/34 Compact and ST685 (hydro) road shifters
Utilized the Tanpan cable pull converter widget
This increases the cable pull of Shimano road shifters to the longer pull required for the mountain bike derailleurs, specifically XTR
11-40T XTR cassette. I ran this briefly with an Ultegra RD and there was not enough range. Chain flopped loose near small/small combo.
Other issue with Ultegra RD and Goatlink 11 for the grinders was chain slap and drop. I'd drop my chain a few times during the average 50-150 mile grinder. Besides being dangerous, it was damned annoying.
Shadow + pretty much ended the slap/drop problems and has enough range. Mismatch between road and mountain cable routing required some bead type cable housing to make the sharp bend without kinking.
Despite being a semi-janky hodge podge of parts, it works exceptionally well. Nearly OEM level precision to shifting. 50x11 high and 34x40 low with even steps in between and no chain control issues. Win.
Bike has been converted back to 1x for cyclocross season with a K-Edge chain keeper and single 42T thick/thin and FSA carbon outer chainguide. Here is pic with the February - September Grinder season 2x setup.
XTR 11s Shadow Plus with 50/34 Compact and ST685 (hydro) road shifters
Utilized the Tanpan cable pull converter widget
This increases the cable pull of Shimano road shifters to the longer pull required for the mountain bike derailleurs, specifically XTR
Next gen evolution of the 10s road shifter + 9s XTR derailleur + 10s XTR cassette + compact combo of win. I like.
Getting ST685s on my bike has made it 100x more fun in the hills.
Bros,
We are doing a second kit run of our kit, quite a few locals decided they wanted a kit after seeing it in the flesh. It looks fantastic and it's affordable, $210 for jersey/bibs, $25 for arm warmers, $90 for a vest if 6 or more buy. We went with the mid-grade kit because our old team kit has two years on it and wearing extremely well, will go longer, and everyone in the kit likes the cham with no complaints. We are on a two-year kit-interval so don't expect anything new from us next summer. Grupetto Fiasco
Bros, I'm trying to sell one more bib-short to get baller price. Store closes soon.
would like to get a new mtb derailleur for my 10s setup with shadow clutch. I run compact 50/34 with 11-34 cassette and my oldschool mtb derailleur is maxed out with it and there is slop in the small/small combo too.
Jealous of the bikes in here.
Anyone have a compact FSA SLK crankset with 175mm arms (with 24mm spindle)? shoot me a message with a photo if you do, im looking for one.
A real framebuilding jig would be so nice. Getting the rear end aligned properly took a few tries. having to break the tacks and file/reposition several times until I was satisfied. Aluminum cant be formed cold like steel can be or it would have been much easier.
What tubing for the tandem. 6061 T0 cold forms nicely but you need a jig for heat treating. 7005 T6 doesn't require heat treat but also doesn't allow cold forming. When I worked in the bike industry, manhandling prototype 6061 T0 frames into alignment was SOP
Im doing one off type work, so heat treatment and heat treating jigs overcomplicate what Im doing. Repositioning and tacking to get what I need for alignment is much easier for me and much, much cheaper than complicated heat treatments.
If I were doing any kind of mass production, 6061 T0 would start to make sense.
As it is, I DO heat treat the 7005, though its capable of age hardening on its own post-weld. With a controlled heat, at temperatures that are easily obtainable in a standard powdercoating oven its good piece of mind and I believe the even heating of artificial aging is more desirable than not doing it.
So, I sold my little 34mm race wheels and ordered 52mm race wheels from November and it seems there is a massive problem, I'm guessing production, and he is out of the carbon-fiber wheel game. So, I have pink 20/24 T-11 hubs and no rims. Any thoughts on how I should proceed? I don't have Enve or Zipp money, don't really care to, not sure what to do now for a race wheel other than just keep one set of the T-11/DT-460 and race on that. What do you bros recommend? Gigantex?
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