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It's more than I want to spend, would probably prefer to get the cheaper Top Fuel but to even put the components on it that I want from eBay, the price still balances. Would I be a total fool to pass this up? I think I'm a shoe-in for a new position at work which will require travel to quite a few places including Austin, New Mexico, and Little Rock; this would be a really nice addition to the back of my TSX Sport Wagon. Do I go into a little-bit of debt for this or stay steady on saving money for a down-payment on the home? I jumped on the the Stigmata at $2000 because I knew I'd never see a CX bike at that quality level for that price again, I wonder if I'm looking at the same thing on this.
Anyone know if Fox Flot 32 forks and Fox Float Re:active CX2 can convert over to remote lock out? I found a deal on a used, Al Top Fuel.
Which model Float 32? Depending on how old the bike is and if it's an OEM fork, if it's CTD it won't have a "full" lockout, but you can add a remote. It will be hard to find remote parts for anything older than CTD-era cartridges.
Which model Float 32? Depending on how old the bike is and if it's an OEM fork, if it's CTD it won't have a "full" lockout, but you can add a remote. It will be hard to find remote parts for anything older than CTD-era cartridges.
Thanks. I guess I don't see where the rear shock related parts come in. I see the splitter cable but don't see how it hooks up to the rear shock. It would be sweet if this worked out, save me a few thousand on a sweet bike.
I fell in a small watercourse today which was a few feet deep. It was not fun, lol. I did 1.5 of 2 laps wet and cold as ****, leg bleeding and probably needing a stitch...welcome to MTB racing. Finished 25th of like 60.
I don't think you'll be able to 'add' remote lockout to the rear shock. A lot of times the eyelet (big top part) is different. There are some sweet DIY conversions on MTBR and such. Do a google.
I don't think you'll be able to 'add' remote lockout to the rear shock. A lot of times the eyelet (big top part) is different. There are some sweet DIY conversions on MTBR and such. Do a google.
I am going to sit-tight and wait for a re:Aktiv shock to come up on the used market, I think. Yesterday I raced it about 10% over-pressurized for my weight and added rebound damping accordingly and I think it worked well, very little bobbing on power in the middle damping setting on power compared to where I started. The road-power sections were done stiff and the super-rocky section was done on soft where I just sat down and pedaled, tired as hell, freezing cold, wet, bleeding and beaten. I'll probably do the DIY rear lock out later, right now it's fine. It was too good of a deal to pass up, that's for sure, so happy I bought this thing. There are a few rock-climb sections that I really had to think about and hammer on the HT; with this bike I coasted up and caught air on the exit. On the little mogul sections, I was clearing 10-15' gaps, it's like pedaling a trophy-truck, lol.
Do not look directly at my ears but do look at my right leg. I thought that was the bone poking out at first, then realized it was a contusion:
lol @ my gigantic ears.
Is it unreasonable to want a set-back post on my MTB? This is kind of strange, I have a "large" which is supposed to fit like a 19.5. I have a 110mm road stem on it with one spacer under the stem and I feel like I could go lower and longer. I have the saddle all the way back on a straight post. Am I over-thinking this, or could I legitimately lower the stem and/or go longer? I still feel quite up-right compared to the last bike, quite comfortable on descents.
probably your roadie-ness. You shouldn't be quite as stretched and aero on a MTB- got to be able to move around and get behind the seat for downhill sections.
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