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Also, I'm considering a Procaliber, seem like legit bikes, need to decide on spec.
Yeas ago after many years spent being a bicycle mechanic racing bikes and working in bike shops it was always that you got steep discounts on components if you bought them on a complete bike. My recent bike purchases over the last year I discovered this is no longer the case. I spent thousands less than complete bike MSRP on these two high end bikes by buying all the parts individually. Allot of the parts came from on line retailers based in Europe for significantly less than US based retailers not sure I understand what's going on there either.
Same here. My last road bike, the Cannondale SuperSix Evo, was built by a local Cannondale dealer. I wanted a colorway that only came on the D/A mechanical bike, but I wanted Di2. So they put it all together, for about $1500 less than the Cannondale OEM Di2 bike and mine had better parts. I think the shift might be that the Cannondale OEM parts are really nice and have good value when sold separately.
I've put together tons of spreadsheets piecing together a hard tail build, and I'm finding the same thing. The only brand that comes close is Canyon. Somehow they can spec hard tails that are $1500-2000+ cheaper than pretty much every other brand.
I've put together tons of spreadsheets piecing together a hard tail build, and I'm finding the same thing. The only brand that comes close is Canyon. Somehow they can spec hard tails that are $1500-2000+ cheaper than pretty much every other brand.
England for components and tires. Sometimes France for French parts. You give up US warranty, however. My experience with English shops is that shipping is very reasonable, and delivery fast.
England for components and tires. Sometimes France for French parts. You give up US warranty, however. My experience with English shops is that shipping is very reasonable, and delivery fast.
The bulk of my parts came from Germany. DT Swiss stuff is 1/2 USA pricing. Oddly some of the England parts came direct shipped from Barcelona Spain, $249.00 Dura Ace 9100 crank set on a Black Friday deal!
I did buy Trek frames from local bike shop. I did notice however a place in Italy was selling them a bit cheaper shipped but I didn't think it was worth not buying local for those parts.
So, I have a 2016 Top Fuel with the Fox Float rear shock with the manual adjuster thingy. Someone gave me the newer version Aktiv rear damper but without the remote switch. Is this thing worth swapping over? I've heard the ReActiv shocks are somewhat unpredictable compared to the previous model? Is it worth the time to swap?
Trey, I was always really pleased with the reactiv damper on my 2015 fuel ex I just sold, for what its worth. I never had a remote switch on mine. Basically I would run the thing in Climb or Trail mode and it would just open up whenever I hit something larger. I tried to convince my co-worker to spring for the Fuel ex 8 with the same shock but he went for the 7, and as soon as he built it and went for a ride and tried his buddy's Fuel EX 8 with that shock he was kicking himself for not getting the reactiv shock instead.
In exciting news for me, I just ordered my 2018 TREK FUEL EX 9.8 29er Project One at work, decided on a fun color too. Ordered in Radioactive Orange with the carbon Line Pro wheels, Montrose Pro saddle, and ESI grips. This has the same Reactiv shock as my old bike, just the EVOL version and more travel. My other co-worker ordered a FUEL EX 9.9 with the Reactiv Thru-Shaft and may be getting a different shock in which case I'd look to buy his top of the line shock for myself, he basically asked me to cover the cost of his replacement I think its a DPS or something like that. Basically I'll have a Fuel 9.9 minus the carbon chain stay, Kashima Coat, and XX1 grouppo, but I did order mine with GX Eagle which is supposed to be really good as well.
Emilio, since you're our local suspension whiz, any experience with that Thru-Shaft? Does the concept have merits? It eliminates the IFP assembly and is supposed to be like Reactiv but more and better
We also had these on closeout so I grabbed some, 42cm wide, 100mm stem equivalent, -7* angle on stem. Just waiting for Blendr base to come back in stock so I can have my Wahoo and my light dead center as nature intended.
Only other noteworthy thing with that shock, I think we weigh about the same, and I ended up running a Push Industries 7cc volume spacer in mine. Then again I had the 120mm version I think the Top Fuel version is 100mm and may be dampened (or damped whatever) differently so I don’t know if it will need the spacer or not but just a consideration
Can you get a picture of the reaktiv shock (nothing showing up in your post)? it should have a blue lever with 3 positions- open, trail, climb. each setting firms up low speed compression damping. If you run the thing in trail or climb it will pedal very efficiently.
not a big need for handlebar remote with that shock.
Sorry, bros: I believe this only has two settings. Again, I do not have the lockouts, not really sure that I want them, but definitely sure that if I had the lock-out I'd complain about them failing as I hear they are unreliable. Also, my front shock has three settings and I think this one has two. I'm not really sure that I need a better shock than the one from the year prior, but it was free and it has a marketing engine behind it.
Just set it to firm and it will do the rest for you.
Originally Posted by hustler
Sorry, bros:
I believe this only has two settings. Again, I do not have the lockouts, not really sure that I want them, but definitely sure that if I had the lock-out I'd complain about them failing as I hear they are unreliable. Also, my front shock has three settings and I think this one has two. I'm not really sure that I need a better shock than the one from the year prior, but it was free and it has a marketing engine behind it.
Just set it to firm and it will do the rest for you.
The lever is sprung so it will always be open, but I could pretty easily take a tiny piece of housing and cable, crimp both ends so it stays closed. Maybe I'll do that, then decide because that is free. I will try to screw the body back together tonight, I guess.
So, when would I want to use the "open" setting? There is some stuff here that's big enough that I have to anti-row far enough back that the saddle hits my chest, gotta to that to not dump over the bars. I know the magic of this shock is the "trail setting", not sure why I'd switch to open.
I never set mine to open. With the reactiv it will go to open once you hit something larger and then go to firm again. Like I said I don’t know why they even give a choice
02-08-2018, 12:44 PM
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