If FEMA had the bicycles, would it fund Hustler's manlet bib?
#1141
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Ive decided the fate of my vintage bike...
Upgrade it.
1.It rides really nice, but I hate the DT shifter. Going to hold out for a deal on 5700 STI's even though I just bought new brake levers for the bike. dumb on my part.
2.Building a light wheelset for it with smaller tires (debating 23 or 25c... all casual riding but I will be trying to beat myself on strava most days once the snow is gone) with a 5700 10 speed rear cassette which will likely mean I need a 10speed chain too.
3. 6600 FD
4.Saddle and post. My saddle was a freebie and it sucks, the post wont hold the seat in the same position if you change positions. (even though its #4 on the list, it will likely be #1 upgrade)
about $500 for this if I can find a set of STI's for $100.... maybe a little more though.
Miyata by Shlammed, on Flickr
Took the bike mostly apart to weigh some stuff to see what was REALLY out of place and for the most part its my wheels/tires and saddle/post. Should be right about 20lbs with my steel frame and fork with the new parts.
Upgrade it.
1.It rides really nice, but I hate the DT shifter. Going to hold out for a deal on 5700 STI's even though I just bought new brake levers for the bike. dumb on my part.
2.Building a light wheelset for it with smaller tires (debating 23 or 25c... all casual riding but I will be trying to beat myself on strava most days once the snow is gone) with a 5700 10 speed rear cassette which will likely mean I need a 10speed chain too.
3. 6600 FD
4.Saddle and post. My saddle was a freebie and it sucks, the post wont hold the seat in the same position if you change positions. (even though its #4 on the list, it will likely be #1 upgrade)
about $500 for this if I can find a set of STI's for $100.... maybe a little more though.
Miyata by Shlammed, on Flickr
Took the bike mostly apart to weigh some stuff to see what was REALLY out of place and for the most part its my wheels/tires and saddle/post. Should be right about 20lbs with my steel frame and fork with the new parts.
#1143
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Location: Kingston, Ontario
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its a 30mm deep wheel similar to the FLO.
flo VS xr300.
#1144
Ive decided the fate of my vintage bike...
Upgrade it.
1.It rides really nice, but I hate the DT shifter. Going to hold out for a deal on 5700 STI's even though I just bought new brake levers for the bike. dumb on my part.
2.Building a light wheelset for it with smaller tires (debating 23 or 25c... all casual riding but I will be trying to beat myself on strava most days once the snow is gone) with a 5700 10 speed rear cassette which will likely mean I need a 10speed chain too.
3. 6600 FD
4.Saddle and post. My saddle was a freebie and it sucks, the post wont hold the seat in the same position if you change positions. (even though its #4 on the list, it will likely be #1 upgrade)
about $500 for this if I can find a set of STI's for $100.... maybe a little more though.
Took the bike mostly apart to weigh some stuff to see what was REALLY out of place and for the most part its my wheels/tires and saddle/post. Should be right about 20lbs with my steel frame and fork with the new parts.
Upgrade it.
1.It rides really nice, but I hate the DT shifter. Going to hold out for a deal on 5700 STI's even though I just bought new brake levers for the bike. dumb on my part.
2.Building a light wheelset for it with smaller tires (debating 23 or 25c... all casual riding but I will be trying to beat myself on strava most days once the snow is gone) with a 5700 10 speed rear cassette which will likely mean I need a 10speed chain too.
3. 6600 FD
4.Saddle and post. My saddle was a freebie and it sucks, the post wont hold the seat in the same position if you change positions. (even though its #4 on the list, it will likely be #1 upgrade)
about $500 for this if I can find a set of STI's for $100.... maybe a little more though.
Took the bike mostly apart to weigh some stuff to see what was REALLY out of place and for the most part its my wheels/tires and saddle/post. Should be right about 20lbs with my steel frame and fork with the new parts.
If it were me, and I know it's not, but if it were, I would keep the old bike the way it was stock ('cuz bikes of that vintage are cool) hang it on the wall as art, and scrape together as much money as I could for an updated one. There is so much that has changed from bottom brackets to headsets to stems to shifters to brakes to rear triangle width to front fork design...
Get a modern bike, ride the heck out of it, then upgrade when you get fit. That being said, as Sav pointed out, light, aero wheels are where it's at and will give you a much bigger performance gain than a light frame. But, hard training will beat light, aero wheels.
#1146
I wouldn't.
Between the cost and frustration of upgrading a 20 year old bike, I'd just make it useable now (new seat/post?) and ride it as is. You will be nickel and diming yourself stupid trying to adapt new parts to an old frame, and at the end of it you still have a mostly old bike.
Ride it for a while as-is, and if you are enjoying yourself, then make a full upgrade to something modern.
Between the cost and frustration of upgrading a 20 year old bike, I'd just make it useable now (new seat/post?) and ride it as is. You will be nickel and diming yourself stupid trying to adapt new parts to an old frame, and at the end of it you still have a mostly old bike.
Ride it for a while as-is, and if you are enjoying yourself, then make a full upgrade to something modern.
#1147
You have what you are pretty sure is the turbo off of a Jetta, and you want to know if you should put it in your miata, and what else to buy to make it work.
Just buy a bike from here and when you build your own frame or buy the one you want- just swap the parts over. Only $150 more in the long run and will work perfectly.
Save up to 60% off Road Bikes, Free Ship 48, Schwinn, GT, Kestrel, Fuji, Motobecane and more Road bikes. Authorized dealer for Schwinn, GT, Kestrel, Fuji, Motobecane, Mercier, Gravity, Dawes road bikes. Shimano Carbon Road Bikes, Titanium Road Bikes,
Just buy a bike from here and when you build your own frame or buy the one you want- just swap the parts over. Only $150 more in the long run and will work perfectly.
Save up to 60% off Road Bikes, Free Ship 48, Schwinn, GT, Kestrel, Fuji, Motobecane and more Road bikes. Authorized dealer for Schwinn, GT, Kestrel, Fuji, Motobecane, Mercier, Gravity, Dawes road bikes. Shimano Carbon Road Bikes, Titanium Road Bikes,
#1151
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Would be a nice buy I think.
#1155
Tour de Franzia
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I wanted to take a moment to let all you bros know that I'm manly enough that I killed the 105 RD after 5000 miles. The bearings are blasted, it's done. 6700 installed in it's place.
#1156
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This might be a stupid question, but what is the purpose of disk brakes on a road bike? Just so you don't need a durable surface on the rim to clamp on? The disks and calipers can't be lighter than standard lightweight rim calipers.
#1158
Tour de Franzia
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They are better in the rain, end of story.
#1160
Tour de Franzia
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And they may have saved Beloki a broken femur, in two places, broken wrist, and broken elbow when the glue overheated on his tubular under braking and the tire rolled off the rim at a pretty high speed. Ouch.
Chute de Joseba Beloki Tour de France 2003 - YouTube
Chute de Joseba Beloki Tour de France 2003 - YouTube
Maybe my CAAD11 will have them.