hahah.

well i got it home. it got locked in gear for a while and i was stranded and couldnt get it to restart. it would lurtch forward when i cranked. i was finally able to pound it out, but then it still wouldnt start cause i flooded it and killed the battery. so i got a jump box and i was able to complete my journey.

the thing stays fully engaged like before i did the shims. I really think it's the TOB. I think all the stress from teh rod being out the furthest and all the load it takes to release the disc at the place it did killed it. Whatever it is, it's not kosher. The noise it makes got worse and when I stopped to get it into the garage i couldnt get it back into first again without slamming it with my fist, then it shuddered like a bitch...i think it failed completely just as i parked it.

beats me what it is, it sucks and im pissed. it may not be the clutchnet parts, it may be. But I shouldnt have to shim my PP, that's retarded. the clutch disc material is too thick, regardless. I wish I got the ACT 6-puck I ordered in the first place. God Damn me for being a jew. I had one on order and the company tried to stiff me, instead of poning up $40 more for the disc directly from ACT i bought Clutchnet's. I have no doubt in my mind that if I would have used the ACT disc, none of this would have happened and i would be happy not sad.

Brain,Shit happens.

As long as you don't make the same mistake twice,it's all good.

Wow... I'd not really heard of ClutchNet before. Went to their website, and I'm not really impressed. Not much technical data. And for some reason, I'm interpreting everything as though it read: "All clutch are make in United States! Is Green plate for street, is Red plate for drag race. You are for autocross? Is Yellow plate."

I picked up the 3x PP combo in the group buy also. I'm scared as shit now needless to say.

in soviet russia, clutch dumps you!

Flywheel :ne: Pressure Plate

Impact Wrench :ne: Torque Wrench

The pins are generally for allignment, but I would think they also keep the PP from twisting off of the flywheel, as in, sharing the torque load with the PP bolts.

If you spacers are not EXACTLY the same thickness your PP will not be square, and that will cause shudder and slippage.

sorry, the PP was torqued by a torque wrench. In steps of hand tight, then 10 lbs, then 20 lbs. in the correct pattern.

my issue is, the clutch disc is too thick. therefore the clutch wouldn't disengage. Press the clutch in fully and it's still not enough to release the friction surface away from the clutch surface. Shimming the PP back gave me that extra travel, as suggested by the manufacturer. But I also think this put the TOB under lots of stress and it failed.

I still just drove it home over 30 miles. I could still get it in and out of gear, but it took rev matching as it barely was able to disengage, i even had to adjust the clutch pedal so it was at the last thread on the pedal.

clutch doesn't slip, clutch shudders cause it's a pucked disc and the clutch is always semi-engaged in gear no matter the pedal position.

believe me i would have not had to of shimmed. who the fuck makes a clutch kti that requires shimming in some cases, but they dont tell you and when you ask how much to shim they tell you "five thousandths." Ok Igor, by all means I'll makes sure to put a piece of construction paper under the pp next time.

I have successfully installed more than 5 clutches in my lifetime, twice on my miata, twice on my altima, and once on a mustang 5.0. Never had these type of issues before.

Clutchnet = Fail
Scott = Used Clutchnet
Therefore: Scott = Epic Fail

I recommended an ACT to a friend and helped him install it recently. I sort of felt bad because I knew there were cheaper options out there but I really didn't discuss them with him.

I don't feel bad anymore.

BTW, Scott: When I installed my 6-speed, my ACT wouldn't disengage. I drove it home, floating the gears the entire way, and when I got home, it magically disengaged and has been working flawlessly ever since. So, in conclusion, the Clutchnet breaks itself, whereas the ACT fixes itself. :D

Andrew are you really running a 4.10 behind a 6 speed @ 200+whp? Do you start in 2nd? If not, try it and log it for comparison. I'll bet it's faster to 60 mph and 1320'

consule me i sad.

Funny you should mention the 1320. I'm going tomorrow night. I'll try a 2nd gear launch.

Looking forward to seeing those times. I assume you are going on the NT-01's.

/hijack

sux to hear this... I got in on the groupbuy, and car is finally coming to fruition. 1st casual drive today (still poorly tuned/no boost), but clutch felt nice...Then I read this...

I hope this is more of a freak thing than what most of us who got in the gb will see...

i have a history of things failing after i fix other things. once i solve this, my passenger seat will fly off on the highway.

ahhh, prob just a bad ejector seat relay.....so long as its not the drivers seat look at it as your "adding lightness"

brain, act is the way to go, seems like i always say this, but i would go with a full faced disc and the extreme pressure plate. the increased pedal effort really is not a big deal unless you're an ethiopian with malaria and aids. ever since i've used one of my awd eclipse and beat the living shit out of it i don't think i'll ever buy anything else.
so to recap:
ACT XTSS FTW

also at this point have a good look at your flywheel, who knows that that russian crap did to it

I have the XT with the full-faced organic disk and I LOVE it. No problems with engagement points, no drama, not too hard to push in. Couldn't ask for better.

We'll see how it holds up to the Bell S1 once I get it in, but it did fine with my old greddy kit at 200+ whp and ft/lbs tq.

So how many people are running one without a problem? Mine is still sitting on the shelf in my room, I'm afraid now. Is there a way to tell theres a problem before you put it all back together?

pussies. im gonna install mine anyways :)