yeah a small would be just fine but if the small craps out throw in an evo for kicks. couldnt hurt it is my plan anyway

 

btw i am going for about 260 whp if i can not blow it up or about 15 psi on the small we'll see maybe it will work maybe not but befor e i blow it i will back of until get another motor and build it up. Still need a dif now though jsut cnat find one cheap enough your price would have been awsome but that fell through. oh well i would still race ya and share abeer afterwords no hard feelings you gotta do what you gotta do.

 

16g would be perfect for that hp range, like i said i put out 321hp on a big 16g at 18 psi, my problem was i wanted more, it pulled hard but there where plenty cars that could beat me. That kind of hp you should run low 13s to high 12s

 

16g's are great and all but if your gonna buy a turbo nowadays and you wanna keep up with the rest of the cars on the road you either have to go 20G or 50 trim (depending on your spooling needs). SlowboyRacing sells internally gated 20gs that bolt to the stock manifold if i remember correctly. I also fully support FP turbos. In respect to these ebay parts being posted, PLEASE keep in mind.. YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. You may drop 1000 dollars on a GOOD NEW turbo, but the turbo is the pivotal building block of your entire setup. Buying a used one means it will need rebuilds and has no warranty, so you take your own chances there. Cutting corners will only lead to problems in the long run.

That being said there is a plethora of free mods, not to mention intakes can be built out of your existing intake piping and some 2 1/4 pipe w/ 2 couplers. Look it up.

 

No.

The average DSMer will NOT see 400whp on the Evo 16g. This number was achieved by Slowboy. And they basically just bolted it up to their race car. Like I said, the average DSMer won't see these numbers because Slowboy's mod list is extensive, to say the least. Here's their dyno graph:
http://www.slowboyracing.com/downloa...vs.%20Cast.JPG

Quote from Slowboy:

"Please note that SBR recommends this turbo if you are looking to make between 280 and 380 streetable horsepower. Above 380 wheel horsepower, your going to be running a lot of boost and some excellent fuel to sustain the power numbers without hurting the engine. "

 

newbsauce i agree about something more than a 16g, but not the 20g. Its an extremely outdated turbo with good power but terrible spool time and last time i looked still expensive, you can get a ball bearing turbo for the same price as the 20g and have better spool time than a 16g.

 

Right the flow of the 20G is primarily over 7k RPM, for highway top-end racing (not that anyone would do that). I am more an advocate of the 50 trim/FP line of turbos. I was just suggesting the 20G in case he was trying to stay mitsu (due to his tendancy to harp on the 16g)

 

right thats my kind of racing

 

Since Ive changd my list around herss a list of stuff ill have within the next 2 weeks wit my stock turbo and I would like to know if it can be turned up and to what psi?
Intake w/ open filter
MBC
Boost Gauge
High flow 3" downpipe which deletes teh cat.
Intercooler piping
BOV

Sorry I dont want to give brand names do to the fact that I want to keep my setup somewhat unique.

 

Oh yeah and I know the Mass Air Flow sensor is very restrictive is it hard to make it not?

 

The MAF is made less restrictive by the "honeycomb mod" as well as the "screw mod " research those terms. If you want my opinion you need to stop thinking about turning up the boost with those mods you are doing until you actually have the car breathing right aka.. full exhaust.

 

list is good, but yea just add a cat back next, then turn it up 15 or 16 psi max, i was running my t25 at 18 psi but later found out 16 psi was puttin out the same power, 16 is about the limit.

 

yea check out the maf mods, i didnt do them to mine, but i know people that did. If you want more there is a kit that uses a gm maf and puts it after the turbo before the throttlebody, other than that i guess standalone? I kept mine stock.

 

ok cool Im getting the 3" cat back in not too long but before that what can i turn it to?

 

oh and I wanted to know what does stock psi run at and how much HP will I gain with those parts and 15 psi?

 

If I remember correctly its something like 12-13 PSI peak (maybe 14 with solenoid restrictor removal)... max of 16-17 probably before you lose efficiency. The OEM BOV leaked around 12ish...plastic pos.

I'm not sure what your expecting, but piping and boost might net you like.. 20-30 more HP?? it depends on your motor's condition (compression) and other factors. The new intake/pipes and bov will net you some "rice" hp though, as the car will breath ALOT louder.

 

~intercooler piping = either RRE, Dejon Tool, or Greddy..all of which are good and run around 200ish.
- BOVs.. SHOULD be over 100..
Boost gauge - 50-100
MBC- 50

Thats enough to get the intake/exhaust combo for real gains. Not being an *** or anything but theres very few things you can do to make your setup unique, please dont forget the 4g63 motors been around for like... 20 years ?

 

I just put on my open air filter and I notice that something is way louder would just that make th bov louder casue when I punch it a little it spools up louder and blows off way louder to where i can actually here it now is that right?

 

Im mean you could here it a block away or more now

 

stock boost is 11 psi, yes get rid of that factory bov, you should put down around 180 hp stock, with full exhaust, intake, intercooler pipe, and mbc, you should be around 215-230 hp at 15-16 psi