y8s

iTrader: (8)

****, i gotta bring that too now?

maybe your drills are all dull.

try the grind and drill with a known sharp one.

then use heat and stuff.

man, that IS a rusty turd.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

its a sleeper.

SamS

iTrader: (2)

What about dremel/hacksaw a slot in and use a big flat screwdriver?

iluvtruenos

weld a nut on the other side then use the nut to unscrew it. Or...umm....you're weaksauce.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

could work if i had an impact driver. I'm going to try to find a good Ti or Carbine drill bit or whatever and try to use an extractor.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Last time i was at lowes they had a decent selection of carbide and Ti drills.

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

use heat too or that ain't gunna work either.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

The welded nut might have worked before the hole, but now there's a chance of a big mess with the bolt metal so thin.

My buddy swore by these when remove an exhaust manifold stud from a cast iron head.

when you're through removing this thing you better update your lsd price list thread with tools purchased :gay:

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I gotta take a trip to Sears on my lunch break tomorrow and see what I can't find.

No worries...If if it wasn't for any of these problems I wouldn't have the tool collect I have to-date.

Mach929

iTrader: (3)

slot it with a cutoff disc and get a manual impact that you hit with a hammer and use some nice penetrating fluid

somethis like this but more heavy duty
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...=-1&PID=619506

SamS

iTrader: (2)

+2

You've been soaking it in PBlaster or equivalent too, haven't you? Didn't look like it in the pic.

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

Cobalt bit FTW.

After seeing the poor results on my manifold from some hack (pervious owner) attempting to drill out a sheared stud I'd take it straight to a machine shop and let them un-**** it for you. Or you can **** it up even further and pay even more in the end

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I really dont want to have to lug a whole rear assembly if I dont have to.

iluvtruenos

After penetrating decisions, I have made my decision to slot it, lube it with PB blaster, and ream it with a flat blade enough so that it unscrews.

Be warned however, you might be left with half a bolt to the depth of the cut.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

hey brainsy, since the head is gone, why can't you just pull the housing off without removing the bolt?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

its still threaded in and holding the aluminum section tight.

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

It should only be threaded into one side of the housing or the other... so I think his question is still valid.

bripab007

Yeah, maybe you can spin the whole aluminum rear housing counter-clockwise to un-thread it from the front carrier.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

nope, there's half a diff under it still...

I still bet there's some amount of heating and banging (you know, like your wedding night) that could separate the two.

bripab007

Ah yes, my wedding night...I don't think I learned anything there that can help us with Scott's situation, though :(