Wideband...
#1
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Wideband...
I didnt know quite where to post this, but what exactly does a wideband do?
I know it gives you an accurate a/f ratio... someone please break it down for me.
Everyone says they are great, and a good investment, but i have no idea what all they do!>!
Thanks for answering this noob question.
Nate.
I know it gives you an accurate a/f ratio... someone please break it down for me.
Everyone says they are great, and a good investment, but i have no idea what all they do!>!
Thanks for answering this noob question.
Nate.
#3
Very simple... (sorry Brain, I feel a long post brewing).
The stock engine computer (ECU) is built to operate within very tight specs. The stock intake, injectors, fuel pump, exhaust, etc... will only flow a specific amount of air and fuel per RPM and throttle position. The stock O2 sensor that is mounted in the exhaust header also has a very narrow range of "sensing". The air-to-fuel (A/F) ratio is simply a way to measure if all the fuel the ECU is putting into the engine is getting burned. If there is too much unburned fuel in the exhaust gas, the car is RICH, and the ECU will add less fuel to bring it back to STOICH. If there is not enough fuel, the car runs lean (which can lead to knock and other problems) and the computer adds fuel. The ECU uses the 02 sensor data to add/subtract fuel only when the car is in closed loop mode. Your ECU will always try to keep your Air/Fuel ratio at 14.7 when in a closed loop. Typically anytime below 3.5-4k or when traveling up steep inclines the ECU will be in a closed loop. When the car is in open loop mode, it disregards the 02 sensor signal and adds/subtracts fuel based on a pre-programmed fuel "map". Stock cars use "Narrowband" 02 sensors as that's all they need. You should never be more or less than the stock components will allow.
A "wideband" 02 sensor has a much greater range of sensing. We need a greater range of sensing because our "turbo'ing" can really reak havoc on our A/F's. One of these sensors can be used as a standalone item. You simply weld another bung into your exhaust and mount the gauge in the cockpit. Now you can tell exactly how rich or lean you are. Then you can adjust your fuel pressures or injector size to get the right amount of fuel in (for those of us using mechanical fuel control). If you've got a piggyback (eManage), or replacement aftermarket ECU (Link/Hydra), a Wideband O2 sensor can plug directly into them in order to assist in tuning.
If you don't have a wideband, you have no idea if your fueling is correct or not. Running really rich will foul your plugs and make your car stink of gas and cause you to backfire. Running lean will lead to knock and engine failure. If you don't have a wideband, the only way to tell where you stand fuel-wise is to go to a dyno where they have a WB built into the dyno. There you can tune for max power. Typically, running STOICH (or very slightly rich for safety) will make the most power, so guys running WB's don't have to go to a dyno, they assume since they're A/F's are good, that they're making the most power they can.
There are a few WB's out there, but the two most popular around here are the AEM (check the classifieds, group buys), and the Innovate LC-1.
They are a great investment because you can immediately see and verify every little change you make to your setup, and tune for power and safety without going to a dyno.
The stock engine computer (ECU) is built to operate within very tight specs. The stock intake, injectors, fuel pump, exhaust, etc... will only flow a specific amount of air and fuel per RPM and throttle position. The stock O2 sensor that is mounted in the exhaust header also has a very narrow range of "sensing". The air-to-fuel (A/F) ratio is simply a way to measure if all the fuel the ECU is putting into the engine is getting burned. If there is too much unburned fuel in the exhaust gas, the car is RICH, and the ECU will add less fuel to bring it back to STOICH. If there is not enough fuel, the car runs lean (which can lead to knock and other problems) and the computer adds fuel. The ECU uses the 02 sensor data to add/subtract fuel only when the car is in closed loop mode. Your ECU will always try to keep your Air/Fuel ratio at 14.7 when in a closed loop. Typically anytime below 3.5-4k or when traveling up steep inclines the ECU will be in a closed loop. When the car is in open loop mode, it disregards the 02 sensor signal and adds/subtracts fuel based on a pre-programmed fuel "map". Stock cars use "Narrowband" 02 sensors as that's all they need. You should never be more or less than the stock components will allow.
A "wideband" 02 sensor has a much greater range of sensing. We need a greater range of sensing because our "turbo'ing" can really reak havoc on our A/F's. One of these sensors can be used as a standalone item. You simply weld another bung into your exhaust and mount the gauge in the cockpit. Now you can tell exactly how rich or lean you are. Then you can adjust your fuel pressures or injector size to get the right amount of fuel in (for those of us using mechanical fuel control). If you've got a piggyback (eManage), or replacement aftermarket ECU (Link/Hydra), a Wideband O2 sensor can plug directly into them in order to assist in tuning.
If you don't have a wideband, you have no idea if your fueling is correct or not. Running really rich will foul your plugs and make your car stink of gas and cause you to backfire. Running lean will lead to knock and engine failure. If you don't have a wideband, the only way to tell where you stand fuel-wise is to go to a dyno where they have a WB built into the dyno. There you can tune for max power. Typically, running STOICH (or very slightly rich for safety) will make the most power, so guys running WB's don't have to go to a dyno, they assume since they're A/F's are good, that they're making the most power they can.
There are a few WB's out there, but the two most popular around here are the AEM (check the classifieds, group buys), and the Innovate LC-1.
They are a great investment because you can immediately see and verify every little change you make to your setup, and tune for power and safety without going to a dyno.
#4
BTW, I bought a Zeitronix Zt-2. It was by far the cheapest that gave me the ability to log.
http://www.zeitronix.com/
http://www.zeitronix.com/
#7
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BTW, I bought a Zeitronix Zt-2. It was by far the cheapest that gave me the ability to log.
http://www.zeitronix.com/
http://www.zeitronix.com/
#11
It took me a few minutes to remember why I didn't get the LC-1. The Zeitronix is the only WBO2 that will allow you to datalog against a RPM signal for $280. To add a boost signal costs an addition $100 for a MAP thingy.
It doesn't really do me any good to datalog just a AFR.
The cheapest Innovate solution is the LM-1 + RPM @ $429.
It doesn't really do me any good to datalog just a AFR.
The cheapest Innovate solution is the LM-1 + RPM @ $429.
#12
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It took me a few minutes to remember why I didn't get the LC-1. The Zeitronix is the only WBO2 that will allow you to datalog against a RPM signal for $280. To add a boost signal costs an addition $100 for a MAP thingy.
It doesn't really do me any good to datalog just a AFR.
The cheapest Innovate solution is the LM-1 + RPM @ $429.
It doesn't really do me any good to datalog just a AFR.
The cheapest Innovate solution is the LM-1 + RPM @ $429.
#13
If you're going to get into data aquisition, the LMA-3 at $249 retail has onboard MAP, EGT or CHT, 2 axis accelerometer, RPM, and Injector Duty Cycle. You could sacrifice the accelermeter and pick up dwell and/or tps if desired. With the LC-1, it's very powerful for around $400--about the same price as the Zt2 plus map.
The AuxBox ($249) can be purchased as an accessory to be used with the LM-1 or with any of our MTS compatible units. The basic AuxBox ships with mounting hardware, a 6’ thermocouple wire, the LM-1 connecting cable, and the user manual
#14
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Yes, it is an add on. I listed the retail price. My point was that if you are going to aquire multiple inputs the lma is a good route to go. The lma3 and lc1 together cost around the same as a zt2 with map sensor. The lma3 will add egt, accelerometer, duty cycle, etc without additional expense.
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