stock motor, gt2860rs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9JWe-XFLbQ

 

**** that is very nice. That torque curve is excellent too. 'Grats
2871 would have probably kept the torque up past 5 a little better but I doubt you miss it lol

 

Very very nice

 

nice

 

nice

 

impossible. the rods should have sheared in two and impaled a baby seal by now.

 

Thank you for not posting any specifics on your turbonator.

 

What he said! ^

Having worked with MZR's a lot I can tell you anything over 250 ft-lbs and you're guaranteed to put a rod threw the block sooner or later. Although the 2.0 liters seem to take boost way better, do to the shorter stroke. Whether the 2.0 liter in the NC's have any beefier of rods, idk. Good number none the less!

 

he has an NC begi kit running a 2860

 

That's a 0.64 a/r hotside, right?

That convex shaped torque curve at the low end is something I got with the GT2554 on my 2000. I suspect that that is a mark of a very very tractable low end. Very sweet driveability on the street.

 

The 08+ (?) have forged guts, and maybe can take moar booost?

 

Horses for courses. For a street car I'll take the phat low end over maintaining an extra 10 ft-lbs in the top 1000 RPM.

From driving a 3.2L M3, and a GT2554, I can tell you that in traffic, insta-boost low end makes a huge difference in making a car very satisfying to drive.

 

Gorgeous car. Rolled past you on 309 in my wagon yesterday, too bad my Miata was at home...

 

do want.

www.moto-east.com


put on a 2560 and push it.

 

I was probably driving like a jackass...spent half the drive trying to see if I could get knock retard with prolonged boost--but that required 5th...

details: 2860 begi s3 kit, can't remember the a/r. I do the tuning, revs to 7400, 11.8-12.2:1 afr (rich for meth). 3" exhaust, cat + resonator. 14 psi, meth injection ~400cc on top. Custom 3" maf. motor has 50k hard miles on it. I have a DD so this is only for abuse.

Should the rods have snapped 100whp back? Yes, according to internet wisdom. Whoever says they can't make power and survive is wrong as evidenced. I think 99% of it is in the tuning. People run around with 2-5 degrees of KR and think its ok...but working the timings less aggressive nets more power since KR punishes you double.

Stock fuel pump, stock 6 speed drivetrain, fidanza flywheel, act hd clutch, stock ignition.

This kind of a p/w ratio should not be possible reliably for the cost of a 12k NC +6k in turbo/drivetrain/ecu but it is. 325hp is really for silliness, it is more than adequate at 250whp.

Of note, this is significantly higher than any of the cosworth blower systems (typically 200whp sc vs 250whp turbo at 8 psi)

Now if I could just put it down--the short gearing of the 6sp leaves no traction until 4th sometimes once the boost hits...even with 245 v700's.

 

Very impressive!

Gettin' ready to do a BEGi turbo kit on my NC. Outrageous torque curve!

I figure that's gotta be the .64 a/r..

 

A true test of a cars tune is out on a track at the top 1/3 of the powerband for 20-30 minutes straight. Doing 5th gear pulls on the freeway doesn't exactly compare.

 

Specifically that is a test of engine endurance and a tune designed for such a thing. This car is not built for trackdays. If it was it would certainly require a built motor, richer AFRs, and more conservative timing no doubt, along with others like big brakes. Or a much easier method is to turn the boost down a few lbs though even then the brakes will melt the 3rd lap.

But in this trim it is a true test of a tune designed for street and the occasional 140mph run up the gears, which it does very well.

 

you're winning.



JasonC, were you joking when you said 08+ has forged rawds?