wow that is so precise, to the last 1lb :)

It only read increments of 20lb. It was at 2500 and then 2480 back and forth a bit

Car looks great! 2500 doesn't sound too bad for an NB with all the turbo goodies. It inspires me to finish mine.

Seems like a lot to me. Put it this way, my DD, a 97 Civic EX 5MT with a sunroof shows online weight of 2640. The weight for the stock MSM on the same site was spot on so I trust the numbers. But we're talking a larger car with 2 rows of seats, a trunk, etc. It seems like the MSM should be significantly lighter considering it's smaller in every way, has no real roof, less seats, less car in general.

Unfortunately for me, there's no way to reduce the weight any further without sacraficing the things I have in the car. Gutting the interior is not happening because I still want it to feel like a normal car when I cruise, not some track prepped bucket. AC and PS components apparently only weigh ~30lbs combined, again, not worth the effort of removal. Trunk is already stripped.

The only other thing I could imagine would be to get lighter seats which is hard to get for me cause of my build (big shoulders, smaller waist) combined with the size restrictions in the car, completely remove the soft-top and run with no top at all (PITA for storing the car or leaving it parked anywhere).

Wait, I think I got it!!! How much does the engine weigh? Maybe I can remove that...... :giggle:

You're totally missing the point. Triple the stock horsepower of your civic and see how the chassis/transmission/etc holds up.

Also, RWD requires more weight because of the driveshaft and all that, in addition to the fact that it's a convertible so the chassis has to be built more solidly than a hardtop.

The fact that your turbocharged, full-interior, convertible MSM is still 140 pounds lighter than the [published, probably understated] weight of your civic is quite amazing.

Oh, and A/C and PS components weigh considerably more than 30 pounds combined. more like 50-60, and it's off the nose of the car.

If you take any weight off make it unsprung weight! Upgrade the brakes lol

I'd like to get a definitive answer on that. One guy on another forum had a bunch of component weights posted, many replies from knowledgeble members, noone corrected his numbers for those things. He said ~30lbs

From basic research I'm seeing 38 pounds for A/C and about 10 pounds for power steering, so 48 pounds.

My NB ac stuff weighed iirc 32 lbs. Can't find the post at the moment. The Mazdaspeed has a fancy aluminum bracket for the compressor instead of the standard steel one, so saves at least 5lbs over the standard one? Curly chime in.

also the compressor itself is smaller on msm

The MSM AC compressor is smaller? I will get better AC if I put on a normal NB AC compressor?

I believe it uses the same compressor as the RX-8. While it is smaller it is also longer which caused me a great headache with the way my EFR manifold was designed. I think a 99-00 compressor would interfere with turboparts. Plus you would need custom lines for it to work with your condenser.

Either way, it just doesn't seem like it's worth the hassle. Maybe after I get new seats I'll see if I can shave off 40lbs for the pair and maybe that will give me the determination to get it down to the 2400 mark. Even with AC and PS being on the best side being 48lbs, that would leave me with another 12 to shave somewhere. I just wish I did those things with the engine out of the car. I don't really know how I feel about ghetto looping the steering rack, or whether its worth it to take it all apart and convert it to a manual one.

If you are going to delete the power steering then gut the rack. I love the feel of my steering now way more than when I still had the power steering functioning.

Can I ask, how much heavier is it in parking lots etc? I had a 4runner without power steering, I doubt it's worse than that, but that was pretty bad. Then I had a civic without it, and you hardly noticed as long as you were moving at all. Even inching along it was barely noticeable. I've debated buying a regular NB rack and gutting it to put in my MSM...

I'm actually sitting in my car in a parking lot now. It's not bad as long as you adjust the way you drive in slow speed parking lot situations. Don't try to turn at a dead stop, I mean you can.. It's just way easier to let the car do the work for you. Even if you just feather the clutch out to inch you along like you said, it will make all the difference.

BTW I'm using my MSM rack.. I'd just use what you have already.

I remember hearing that the MSM had a shorter rack than a regular NB giving it faster steering but a wider overall turning radius. True?

So wouldn't putting in a regular NB or NA rack be a downgrade?

How hard is the rack to remove with engine in car?

I believe the MSM rack is has a different gear ratio, requiring less movement of the steering wheel to achieve the same movement of the tires. This of course makes it have slightly heavier steering than the other racks when depowered. That being said, I can't really comment on whether it's a downgrade or not to switch to another rack.

I removed mine with engine in the car. I used FM's method of gutting and cutting the seals out. It was late at night and I remember it taking a few hours. I'm sure it would be way easier in the daylight.

To add further confusion here: I have heard that the MSM rack ratio is the same, but it just doesn't have as many teeth on the rack, so basically 1 turn of the wheels gets you the same as in any other NB, but you hit lock sooner. It's kinda OEM- :-(